Is there a bike lock that is clearly better

[Wes Turner]

Is there any particular bike lock brand or type of lock that is clearly better than any other?

If it happened to be easy to use, so much the better.

I assume it is not enough to merely lock the wheels. It is also necessary to lock the frame to a post or bike rack. Right?

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

I assume it is not enough to merely lock the wheels. It is also necessary to lock the frame to a post or bike rack. Right?

Right. Object lesson seen outside local supermarket...

Worse yet, it took the shopping center months to free up this hitching post — one of only 3 in the entire center.

 

[Wes Turner]

Right. Object lesson seen outside local supermarket...

Worse yet, it took the shopping center months to free up this hitching post — one of only 3 in the entire center.

Wow! That would be a major bummer.

What I meant by "lock the wheel" was to use the wheel lock that is built into the bike. Both the Gazelle that I have been looking at and the Rad that a neighbor is selling have some kind of wheel lock. That would prevent it from being ridden away, but not from being carried away.

Your photo suggests that the lock needs to include the frame. This raises several questions for me:

1. Should the lock include the frame and one of the wheels or is just the frame enough?
2. If the frame and a wheel, which one? I would think that the rear wheel is more valuable and more expensive to replace. But it is also more "connected" to the frame.
3. Should it include the frame and both wheels? That would seem to imply multiple locks.
4. I have read that the type of lock shown above is the most difficult to break. But it seems like it would be difficult to get it around the post, the frame, and even one wheel.

Is there any expertise anywhere recommending the best possible locking gear? I have read several descriptions by lock sellers, but I worry about marketing BS.

 

[sc00ter]

Cafe Locks usually lock one wheel so you can run into a coffee shop and not worry about someone riding off on you bike. My Cero had one (Abus brand) and there was a optional tether chain that clicked into the cafe lock allowing you to lock to a pole/bike rack/etc. I personally like wheel locks/cafe locks but started using Foldylocks. I use a HexLox on my front wheel as well. I also HexLox my seat post clamp so my seat won't get seatnapped.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Wow! That would be a major bummer.

What I meant by "lock the wheel" was to use the wheel lock that is built into the bike. Both the Gazelle that I have been looking at and the Rad that a neighbor is selling have some kind of wheel lock. That would prevent it from being ridden away, but not from being carried away.

Your photo suggests that the lock needs to include the frame. This raises several questions for me:

1. Should the lock include the frame and one of the wheels or is just the frame enough?
2. If the frame and a wheel, which one? I would think that the rear wheel is more valuable and more expensive to replace. But it is also more "connected" to the frame.
3. Should it include the frame and both wheels? That would seem to imply multiple locks.
4. I have read that the type of lock shown above is the most difficult to break. But it seems like it would be difficult to get it around the post, the frame, and even one wheel.

Is there any expertise anywhere recommending the best possible locking gear? I have read several descriptions by lock sellers, but I worry about marketing BS.

These lock questions have come up many times here with little general consensus. To rework an old joke, 1 question, 2 members, 3 opinions.

The search function works well. Time to review what's already been said in multiple threads and come up with a solution that fits your own situation — especially your own risk tolerance.

As for the Gazelle's cafe lock, I gather that some members would be willing to rely on one when their bike is in their sight and only a few steps away. Otherwise not.

I use a single Abus folding lock, but I generally ride in low-crime areas and carry replacement insurance. With enough time and an angle grinder, a pro can defeat almost any lock. Locking up in a public place with a lot of foot traffic is little protection. When available, lock up next to a bike much nicer than yours.

 

[scottsdalecommuter]

most of the time i will just bring my bike into the place if i can, most places have a nice spot inside the door, or sometimes if we're in pairs, one of us stays by bikes (coffee shop for example). ive also had good luck asking the customer service rep at the grocery store if i can park the bike back there and they are usually cool about it. i dont trust locks, we had one bike stolen that was locked and its a gut wrenching feeling. that was a cheap but sentimental bike. if i had my ebike stolen, id be really unhappy. as for locks, we have a couple really small ones that could be cut real easy, we have a thicker one, we have a chain lock, and also a heavy duty U lock. i only trust the ubolt and chain to stop someone who actually wanted to steal the bike. the cables could be cut real quick. my brother bought some noise movement device that supposedly makes a super loud noise if it's bumped or touched, not sure how it will work out but curious for sure.

 

[DiggyGun]

Your insurance company will usually stipulate what type and security of lock, depending on the value of the bike.

In the UK we have Sold Secure accredited locks, Bronze, Silver, Gold and Diamond.

So, for example:
- Bike value up to £750; Bronze
- Bike value £750 to £1500; Silver
- Bike value over £1500; Gold

Most will have other security requirements as well. These may vary slightly between insurance companies, but you get the gist of it.

DG…

 

[Wes Turner]

Cafe Locks usually lock one wheel so you can run into a coffee shop and not worry about someone riding off on you bike. My Cero had one (Abus brand) and there was a optional tether chain that clicked into the cafe lock allowing you to lock to a pole/bike rack/etc. I personally like wheel locks/cafe locks but started using Foldylocks. I use a HexLox on my front wheel as well. I also HexLox my seat post clamp so my seat won't get seatnapped.

The Cafe locks are only for short periods, such as the coffee shop stop you describe, right?

I did a little reading about locks. The general option seems to be that U-Locks are more secure than either chain locks or foldylocks. Do you disagree?

 

[Wes Turner]

These lock questions have come up many times here with little general consensus. To rework an old joke, 1 question, 2 members, 3 opinions.

The "old joke" I know is about wishing for one-handed economists who frequently say, "On the one hand, ..., but on the other hand ...

I generally ride in low-crime areas and carry replacement insurance.

What do you pay for replacement insurance? What does it cover? Where do you get it?

 

[Wes Turner]

most of the time i will just bring my bike into the place if i can, most places have a nice spot inside the door, or sometimes if we're in pairs, one of us stays by bikes (coffee shop for example). ive also had good luck asking the customer service rep at the grocery store if i can park the bike back there and they are usually cool about it.

That's a interesting solution. I'll have to try it out.

my brother bought some noise movement device that supposedly makes a super loud noise if it's bumped or touched, not sure how it will work out but curious for sure.

My concern would be that it could be set off by anyone just bumping against it. Then does it blare until the owner comes out and shuts it off? That used to happen all the time with car alarms.

 

[Wes Turner]

Your insurance company will usually stipulate what type and security of lock, depending on the value of the bike.

I just called State Farm, the company we have our car and homeowners insurance with. They do not offer bike replacement insurance.

 

[DiggyGun]

I just called State Farm, the company we have our car and homeowners insurance with. They do not offer bike replacement insurance.

Then look for a company that does bike insurance. There must be many in Silicon Valley.

When you advise them the make, model, etc. of your bike, also add on an amount to cover accessories, such as lights, panniers, locks, etc.

DG…

 

[Wes Turner]

Here are the results of a little research.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit​

It has an 18mm diameter, which is larger than most.
$105 U-lock only
$152 U-lock + cable

ABUS 770A SmartX Bicycle Lock with Bluetooth and Alarm​

Diameter: 13mm. It is app-controlled and has an alarm.
$175 U-lock
$207 U-lock
$218 U-lock

I think I am inclined to get the second one above, the U-lock + cable.

Am I right to get both a U-lock and a cable?

Is there something better, if cost is not a major factor?

 

[DiggyGun]

Here are the results of a little research.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit​

It has an 18mm diameter, which is larger than most.
$105 U-lock only
$152 U-lock + cable

ABUS 770A SmartX Bicycle Lock with Bluetooth and Alarm​

Diameter: 13mm. It is app-controlled and has an alarm.
$175 U-lock
$207 U-lock
$218 U-lock

I think I am inclined to get the second one above, the U-lock + cable.

Am I right to get both a U-lock and a cable?

Is there something better, if cost is not a major factor?

What’s the value of your bike and did the insurance company put any specific lock requirements ?

DG…

 

[Wes Turner]

What’s the value of your bike and did the insurance company put any specific lock requirements ?

My current bike not expensive, but if I find that I can actually ride, I will buy a much more expensive bike in a few months.

I have not yet found an insurance company.

 

[DiggyGun]

I will buy a much more expensive bike in a few months.

What bike are you considering?

Find an insurance company, get a quote from them. Then get an appropriate lock accordingly, saves getting the wrong lock now.

DG…

 

[mschwett]

the only lock which really rises above the others in terms of still being practical and resisting an angle grinder is the new litelok x3.

LITELOK X3

With 5x more angle-grinder resistance than the best performing D-lock, X1 is the ultimate in bike security: lightweight Sold Secure Diamond armoured D Lock.

us.litelok.com

it is big, heavy, and expensive, but resists attack by angle grinders for MUCH longer than even the kryptonite NY locks.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

I'd recommend going for several independent systems to minimize your risk.

Yes, get a decent lock. What is "decent" depends a lot on where you live and where you ride. If you ride in New York or San Francisco that is going to be a lot heavier and more expensive than in Asheville.

Consider a GPS tracker or airtag. Though none of the systems I've seen or tried have really seemed up to the job yet.

Register your bike on a service like 529 Garage.

Also, there are last-ditch things you can and should do to make your bike harder to steal. If you can remove the head unit (display) from your bike do so -- ideally this means they would be riding away without assist, and we all know with a heavy e-bike that will be painful. Also, leave your bike in the very highest gear because that will make it much harder for a thief to easily ride the bike away. Those two things together can make the bike almost unrideable and much more difficult to steal.

None of those things (or heck, even all of them) are going to prevent your bike from being stolen. But they will reduce your risk and together make it much less worthwhile to bother with your bike.

 

[gromike]

If you don't park in a high crime area, and if your bike ain't fancy (i.e. expensive), a good cable lock will suffice. You still have to be cognizant of the fact that you have a tethered asset out there. Though, I must admit, I have left my precious Huffy Oslo tethered overnite a time or two in front of the local watering hole -- yet, in the morning it's still there.

 

[Susan W]

Is there any particular bike lock brand or type of lock that is clearly better than any other?

If it happened to be easy to use, so much the better.

I assume it is not enough to merely lock the wheels. It is also necessary to lock the frame to a post or bike rack. Right?

I checked out the “Lockpicking Lawyer". I bought the Kryptonite 1090, which cost almost $200 in Canada because he uses that one. I also have the first good (expensive) Kryptonite U-lock with a cable that I bought. I think it was about $125 quite a few years ago. For added protection, I have 2 disk brake alarms. I paid about $30 each. They're pretty skookum. I lock one onto each disk brake. If someone moves or touches my bike with metal, the alarms will give two warnings and then start screaming.
I've hidden an Apple GPS disc in my bike.
If I want any more protection, I have a Dudley school lock and a small luggage lock.
All any of us can do is make our own bike more-difficult to steal than the other ones parked near it.
I've also added lots of reflective tape. Usually thieves want to part-out a bike and mix up the parts with other bike parts (a Franken-bike). The tape can't be removed, it tears, so they can't paint over it, it'll still show.