Would like to go faster

[carlrich]

I have recently purchased a class 3 bike. It's not giving the speed I'd like so I'm exploring options. The manual for the display states
"KMSS protocol limited speed adjustment scope is 12-40km/h; Lithium Battery No. 2 protocol limited speed adjustment scope is 16-64km/h."
Mine is more inline with 40km/h top speed. From this, can I gather that there are two types of protocol; kmss and Lithium Battery No.2? It seems the protocol is in the very fancy display. If I change the display to a Lithium Battery No. 2 type should that unleash the potential of 64km/h or do I need to also replace the controller? The bike has a 750w motor. It has two 20Ahr 48v samsung battery packs for a total of 40Ahr.
The bike is Luckeep X2 with display integrated into handle bar stem.

Electric Bike Luckeep X2​

Luckeep Electric Bike for Adults Specification： Motor: UL 1004-1 Certification 1130W (Peak) 750W (Sustained) 48V Brushless Rear Hub Motor. SAMSUNG Battery: UL 2271 Certification SAMSUNG Cells 48V 20AH (960Wh) Battery. Dual Battery System: Optional Dual Battery System Provides 15AH/20AH/25AH...

luckeepbike.com

Here is what I've found for a lithium battery no. 2 protocol display. Again I'm assuming this is what controls speed so long as it doesn't burn up the controller box buried in the bike though I believe the controller box in the bike will still limit a max 25A output on this 48v bike that comes with a 20Ah battery of samsung cells.
https://www.amazon.com/Smala-Protoc...=lithium+battery+no.2+protocol,aps,119&sr=8-1

Can you shed light on this?

 

[tomjasz]

Can you shed light on this?

Yeah, you bought the wrong bike.

 

[tomjasz]

You may or may not be able to tweak and gain some speed, but more often than not, especially with store bought eBike the upgrade path is either nonexistent or very expensive.

You bought a budget bike, I'd not call it inexpensive, I'd call it cheap and with low end parts. NOT a candidate for upgrades unless you trough more money at it than it's worth. A lot of us have purchased these budget bikes but our uneducated expectations are soon dashed OR we accept what we bought and make the best of it.

 

[carlrich]

Nope, just lack the electrical background to adapt it to what I want. Perhaps someone here with more electrical knowledge than you or I can give actual technical help I can learn from.

 

[tomjasz]

Nope, just lack the electrical background to adapt it to what I want. Perhaps someone here with more electrical knowledge than you or I can give actual technical help I can learn from.

You're severely limited buy the low end components. Maybe @harryS has some input. But 7 years of doing support and more than a dozen builds...
There's no simple path. If you can throw more money that the bike is worth at it...

 

[harryS]

Buy a Voilanart 1500W direct drive motor for $250. Put it on a bike with a big enough battery and the speedometer will tell you you're going mid 30's. Never done this, but others have.

Geared 500W motors are always going to max out around 24-28 mph unless you put them on a racing bike and tuck in.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

If you can’t get into the settings to change the top speed (hopefully you can) the next option would be to replace the controller and display.

“kmss and Lithium Battery No.2” sound more like “presets” rather that protocols. Protocols wouldn’t have naming like that. If they are “presets”, then it is likely that you can’t change individual values such as speed or wheel diameter.

It may be fair to say that the seller has some settings limited and you can not change them. A new controller and display should fix that. KT controllers seem to be highly recommended. I did a similar upgrade to my bike and saw the same recommendation. They are very user friendly to use. They would be around, or under, $100.

Before just picking one and ordering it, measure the one you have. My bike (Ridu1Up700) has a similar frame. The controller is probably in the frame, under the battery. and you’ll want to get the same size or smaller. A 25 amp KT controller for fine for me.

Also check the motor plug. What does it look like? There are multiple variations of this connection.

 

[carlrich]

Thanks guys. I will look at the KT controller and the motor mentioned. I enjoy the bike and it fits my needs as is but I like to tinker and I don’t count the cost in fiddling around with something I enjoy and get to learn something while I’m doing it. The existing motor is 750 watt but I’ll look for 1000 w or more though I think it will need to have the entire rear wheel, gears and same width. I read something on it was limited to 25A. Could have been the battery BMS or the controller so I’ll look that over as well.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

You definitely don’t want to hit the battery BMS, if you can avoid it. If you get a 25a controller, maybe set it to 22A max. You’ll want some headroom before the battery BMS trips.

You also might want to hold of on a new motor until you change the controller, and display, first. Changing the controller, and display, will make a big difference and that may be all you need to do.

How fast do you want to go? If I’ve 30mph, then yes, a new motor may be in order. If you are fine with 25-28MPH, then keep the motor and battery that you have. Just changing out the controller, and display, will get you more acceleration, not top speed. Your motor says it’s got a peak of 1130 watts. With a 25A controller and a better fresh off the charger, you’ll have a peak of 1350 watts. I have a motor of a similar rating and it’s been running fine. It was gettting a bit hot, so I shortened the phase wires and put on an MT60 connector. You don’t want to have your phase wires snaking around, with a bunch of hard bends. That stresses the wire and will become a hotspot. I had insulation melting at those points. After I shortened the cable and redid installed the connector, it hasn’t been an issue.

 

[carlrich]

With fresh battery it's hitting 28mph level ground and dropping to 26 after a couple miles. This is throttle only. I looked through a lot of bike reviews and was not finding much in the way of class 3 bikes, with normal (not fat) tires, comfortable sitting position (not a race bike) that would do better than 28mph with no pedaling required. Probably exist so don't be offended. I want to see if I can get to 34. Might be asking a lot of the motor but will see. There are now two samsung 20Ahr packs on the bike in parallel so should have plenty of battery.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I think losing 2mph after a couple of miles would be normal.

If you want to continually go over 30mph, then yes, you’ll have to replace the motor, as Harry suggested.

You may also want higher voltage batteries. I think 52v will get you up to 32 mph, but maybe someone else with more experience can weight in on that.

I’m sure you already checked, but make sure you aren’t going to be breaking any speed laws, in your local area, before upgrading.

Also, what is the total weight of you, the bike, and whatever you might carry? And why is the steepest slope that you may encounter?

 

[tomjasz]

Lots of builds out there but remember the brakes were specified for a 12-15MPH ride. As usual Harry has the best idea IMO, but riding in the 30MPH range calls for better brakes. I updated to Avid cable discs, but it Magura hydraulic this winter. I like being able to stop and feel much more secure in heavy traffic with the ability to live to see another ride.

 

[shanemgan]

I have recently purchased a class 3 bike. It's not giving the speed I'd like so I'm exploring options. The manual for the display states
"KMSS protocol limited speed adjustment scope is 12-40km/h; Lithium Battery No. 2 protocol limited speed adjustment scope is 16-64km/h."
Mine is more inline with 40km/h top speed. From this, can I gather that there are two types of protocol; kmss and Lithium Battery No.2? It seems the protocol is in the very fancy display. If I change the display to a Lithium Battery No. 2 type should that unleash the potential of 64km/h or do I need to also replace the controller? The bike has a 750w motor. It has two 20Ahr 48v samsung battery packs for a total of 40Ahr.
The bike is Luckeep X2 with display integrated into handle bar stem.

Electric Bike Luckeep X2​

Luckeep Electric Bike for Adults Specification： Motor: UL 1004-1 Certification 1130W (Peak) 750W (Sustained) 48V Brushless Rear Hub Motor. SAMSUNG Battery: UL 2271 Certification SAMSUNG Cells 48V 20AH (960Wh) Battery. Dual Battery System: Optional Dual Battery System Provides 15AH/20AH/25AH...

luckeepbike.com

Here is what I've found for a lithium battery no. 2 protocol display. Again I'm assuming this is what controls speed so long as it doesn't burn up the controller box buried in the bike though I believe the controller box in the bike will still limit a max 25A output on this 48v bike that comes with a 20Ah battery of samsung cells.
https://www.amazon.com/Smala-Protocol-TFT-UKC1-Controller-Connector/dp/B0C5MM3K36/ref=sr_1_1?crid=28F71EGTJIX04&keywords=Lithium+battery+No.2+protocol&qid=1702830659&sprefix=lithium+battery+no.2+protocol,aps,119&sr=8-1

Can you shed light on this?

Nah, changing the protocol is not as simple as changing the display as you might think. You will also need to change the controller and the wiring. The KMSS protocol uses a different controller and wiring than the Lithium Battery No. 2 protocol.

 

[carlrich]

Where can I learn more of the differences between KMSS and Protocol 2? Good to know that a different controller is needed. Not a big deal but good to know. From that it is possible but unlikely the brake wires would be different and perhaps no turn signal that exists on the current controller. Motor wires should be the same but maybe a different connector and perhaps different diameter. Where does one get a Lithium Battery Protocol controller? I haven't seen controllers labeled as KMSS or Protocol 2 on projects I'v done with dirt bikes and go carts.