What to check for when buying used...

[JoePah]

The bike is worth it only if you really want that particular bike.. Prices have dropped since 2013, and battery tech is better. A 250 watt motor is somewhat limited.

IF you do ride it, check that all the wireless features work, and try to find out if this has been a user problem.

 

[Marko]

Another think to consider is the frame size. If you are very tall, an M or S is probably not a good choice. If you are around 6 feet, then L or even XL is ok.

You asked about the brakes squealing; at least in my bike it is not that bad, but I have noticed that they do squeal when the discs are wet, but it is not a big issue in my opinion.

 

[Marko]

Concerning the 691 Wh battery compatibility here's the reply by Specialized customer service: "The Turbo SC Battery is compatible with your bike, this will allow you to use the Mission Control app and have Bluetooth connectivity."

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)the customer service message (on page 9 "2016 COMPATIBLE BIKES").

EDIT: I'll add that this possibility will make the 1700$ Turbo look attractive. Put 800 more and you can get the 691 Wh battery. With the new battery also the software bug will be fixed. If the motor is ok, then you basically have a new Turbo S with BT and and Mission Control app possibility and twice as much range for 2500. All the other parts, except the motor are relatively cheaply replaced if necessary. But the motors are of good quality made by GoSwiss and as direct drive unlikely to malfunction because there aren't really wearable parts like in a geared motor.

 

[Frank Guard]

I got the bike for $1000. It has issues with pairing (keeps losing the connection) and some other problems. I cannot judge the battery health but it holds a 100% charge. I'll take it in to the local Specialized shop and have them take a look and give me a quote. If things don't look good, the seller (a nice guy) said he would work with me on it...

@Marko Great news on the replacement battery. The pricing is 999$ for the 691Wh and 800$ for the 504Wh.

 

[Douglas Ruby]

692 Wh battery costs $1000.

 

[Marko]

@Frank Guard
You could try changing the lithium backup cell (CR2032) in the "computer", costs maybe 2$. I think I had the same (losing pairing all the time) once and a battery replacement helped. Also make sure that the connection points are clean of corrosion or dirt.

BTW, great price you got it. I think any issues it might have are easily corrected.

 

[Frank Guard]

@Marko
He had just put in the new batteries that same day. I am going to try a complete reset of the battery and display tomorrow... Then I will find a Specialized service center that has the necessary equipment and software to check the bike out and see how much it will cost to get everything working properly.

 

[Marko]

Also according to Specialized dying battery in the computer is usually the cause of pairing loss.

I listened to my brakes today when it raining sleet; the front rotor makes a really loud train horn type of sound whereas the rear brake makes almost no sound at all. I dont know if this has anything to do with it, but the front rotor is the original Magura whereas in the back I have Avid. The Avid rotor has a lot more holes in it. Maybe it helps reduce the squeal when wet.

 

[Frank Guard]

After spending an entire day trouble-shooting, I determined that the problems were caused by a short in the assist control. Although I was not able to fix it permanently (needs a replacement part), I was able to bypass the problem. That seems to have solved all the issues (knock on wood). Now the bike is working very well. The local bike shop is ordering the part (I will do the install), and will do a firmware update and a tune-up. I was very lucky that it was nothing serious. For a $1,000 plus $30 in parts, I have a beautiful bike in excellent condition. I also have a good education in how the bike works!

 

[Douglas Ruby]

Frank, so you now have a 2013 Turbo S with the 691W battery and working bluetooth app? And what is the assist control? I definitely would be interested in the 691W battery for my 2016 base Turbo. That would extend my range from 35 miles to a comfortable 50 miles.

 

[Frank Guard]

@Douglas Ruby
No, it is the original 342Wh battery. It seems to be healthy based on some riding I did yesterday. I won't know its true health until the LBS hooks it up to the diagnostic software. If the battery health is very low, then I will buy the 691Wh.

The assist control is the thumb control for changing the assist level (Turbo, Eco, No Assist, Regen). Only the 2013 models had this. Yours has the mini joystick. For those 2013 owners, my LBS will be testing if the newer mini joystick version can be used on our old bikes.

 

[Marko]

@Frank Guard
Great that you were able to solve the problem. I cant believe you got a bike for 1k that cost over 6k a couple of years ago. Awesome deal.
Why would you want to change for the joystick. I think the MY13 control is great in terms of ease of use.
If you find the chain drop is an issue, consider changing the chainring; much easier and more elegant solution than trying to install a chain guide, especially when there are no holes in the frame.

BTW, you LBS will probably only be able to tell you how many charge cycles the battery has, but I dont think the diagnostic software can analyse the battery health.

 

[Frank Guard]

@Marko
I just want the option to change to the joystick because repairing the older switch interface is almost impossible. The design uses a metal dome switch that can easily fail. When it does fail, it is locked in a shorting position. I do not know how many spare parts Specialized has nor how long they will keep them available. It is good to have a fallback option.

I haven't had a dropped chain yet. I've only ridden for about 11 miles so far. If it does happen, I will try that chain ring you linked in a previous post. It is not very expensive and if it solves the problem, then I will go for it. Have you had zero drops since switching?

 

[Frank Guard]

@Douglas Ruby
I will try to test the 691Wh battery in my MY13 when I take it in for servicing. I think the LBS will be interested in verifying that it works.

 

[Marko]

@Frank Guard
I asked my dealer the price for the MY13 power controller (the red switches) and he said it is 50€ or so, not that bad in my opinion (I had a problem which went away). Anyhow, the switch is easy to replace.
Regarding the chain drop you can test it by riding on bumps and pedaling at the same time. I used to have so many drops that I just got tired of it and went ahead and had the chainring changed. Not one drop since, no matter how I ride. It could be that it becomes more of an issue when the chain stretches in use.

 

[JoePah]

Good work Frank! IF the old battery works, I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace it. Make sure the rest of the bike is reliable before sinking another grand into a new battery.

The thing about batteries is when they drop below 80% of their original capacity they start degrading quickly, in my experience. You should be able to get a range on it and compare it to others who had it new.

 

[Frank Guard]

@Frank Guard
BTW, you LBS will probably only be able to tell you how many charge cycles the battery has, but I dont think the diagnostic software can analyse the battery health.

@Marko
This link has pictures about half way down that show what information is available from the diagnostic software. You can see number of charges and battery health.

http://secondnaturecycling.com/2015/09/26/further-troubleshooting-the-turbo-s-other-fun-things/

This blog is by a bike tech.

Regards, Frank

 

[Frank Guard]

The mechanic at my LBS is going to Specialized for updated Turbo repair training next week. I will wait until he gets back before taking the bike in. The bike works just fine right now (except for one of the assist level buttons that I removed). I just want the diagnostic report so I know the battery health and decide if a replacement unit (691Wh) is needed and will work.

 

[Marko]

@Marko
This link has pictures about half way down that show what information is available from the diagnostic software. You can see number of charges and battery health.

http://secondnaturecycling.com/2015/09/26/further-troubleshooting-the-turbo-s-other-fun-things/

This blog is by a bike tech.

Regards, Frank

You were right, it does tell you the health %.
Btw, I had once a similar issue as described in the blog. A real mystery, as the diagnostic software seemed to point to a faulty motor; in the end it turned out to be a headlight cable short. The cable was torn because I had fallen earlier in slippery conditions.