Vado Front Sprocket Change 40T to 48 Tooth Who has done this ?

B

BarryS

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I found a Few Threads discussing changing out the Front Sprocket to a larger one : But can't find any that someone who did Reported the results : THANKS
 
I should be finished tomorrow. My new chainring isn’t tapped, so I had to order new bolts, which are two piece without replacing the guard, at least not yet. I should snap some photos of the old cassette (which I replaced) you can see I only rode on the smallest 2 sprockets as most of my riding is flatland.
 
I should be finished tomorrow. My new chainring isn’t tapped, so I had to order new bolts, which are two piece without replacing the guard, at least not yet. I should snap some photos of the old cassette (which I replaced) you can see I only rode on the smallest 2 sprockets as most of my riding is flatland.
I'm just coming off 2 years of Riding a regular Bike 100 miles a week : Even on Hills that are fairly long and steep I'm not using the larger Sprockets at all. I can get to 28 MPH and stay there somewhat with the current set up. My Bike is New With just under 200 miles : SO now would be the tip to do it

Photos are parts list would be great :
 
I’ll post a list of parts, tools used and snap some photos. The only question right now will be the exact number of chain links. Also still debating which guard or perhaps none.
Gear ratios appear to shift everything ~one gear: curious how that will translate to ‘feel’ while riding.
 
I’ll post a list of parts, tools used and snap some photos. The only question right now will be the exact number of chain links. Also still debating which guard or perhaps none.
Gear ratios appear to shift everything ~one gear: curious how that will translate to ‘feel’ while riding.
There's a Guy I met in a Forum for Guns that somehow got hold of a vado that someone had stolen and had stripped off only the Rear parts When he was Caught : I guess he got it cheap > SO he ordered all the gearing parts that come on the Vado 5 > He said He bought the 11 speed cassette 48 Tooth Chainring New chain 11 speed Shift lever etc. Said he has less then $250 in parts : He promised to let me know how it works out > If it does I may do that :

Although MY LBS suggests If I stay under 500 miles : Which I can do since My riding season is fast ending : And provided I don't damage something : Will get me a Vado 5 next Spring : Take My Bike in for $3000 plus Vado 5 Difference : Which sounded Fair to me :

Had the Vado 5 been available I would have gotten it in the first place : However I have ridden The Vado 5 of a buddies : It's nice But now that I have the Vado 4 already . If I upgraded over time all My components and bought an extra battery : The little bit of torque difference IMO based on My level as a rider > Isn't that much quicker : In the overall Cost of the Bikes : Upgrades on Components are relatively inexpensive : If you can do the labor : Which I can easily

Definitely Interested to hear your results and this Gun Guys results : Thanks
 
I’ll post a list of parts, tools used and snap some photos. The only question right now will be the exact number of chain links. Also still debating which guard or perhaps none.
Gear ratios appear to shift everything ~one gear: curious how that will translate to ‘feel’ while riding.
Add 8 chain links to whatever you have.
 
...of the old cassette (which I replaced) you can see I only rode on the smallest 2 sprockets as most of my riding is flatland.

Why not change just the 2 smallest sprocket wheels for a lot less?
 
I found a Few Threads discussing changing out the Front Sprocket to a larger one : But can't find any that someone who did Reported the results : THANKS
The result is that you move up a few sprockets in your cassette range usage and if that was your intention you're happy.
 
Why not change just the 2 smallest sprocket wheels for a lot less?
The issue is that the tight bends around the small sprockets cause more stress on the chain and on the sprocket, resulting in more wear. By going to the larger front sprocket, you ride higher on the cassette and avoid the premature wear and worn out cassettes and chains many experienced on 40 tooth Como and Vado.
 
The issue is that the tight bends around the small sprockets cause more stress on the chain and on the sprocket, resulting in more wear. By going to the larger front sprocket, you ride higher on the cassette and avoid the premature wear and worn out cassettes and chains many experienced on 40 tooth Como and Vado.
I agree : My best buddy has massive legs : When we work out he can easily bench press 500 or more pounds : I'm happy doing just under 300 lol . Consequently Even on a Regular Bike with 3 chainrings : He's always on the Tallest front and smallest rear : He's not mechanical and won't let me work on it . So he's always at the LBS replacing parts : Every Season he has to replace his chain and cassette : I'm not sure why the Dealer doesn't convert his bike to more teeth upfront : We've discussed it so many times that these days I just let him spend his money :)
 
The issue is that the tight bends around the small sprockets cause more stress on the chain and on the sprocket, resulting in more wear. By going to the larger front sprocket, you ride higher on the cassette and avoid the premature wear and worn out cassettes and chains many experienced on 40 tooth Como and Vado.
So these 40T issues : Has anyone replaced the Rear cassette to 11 when upgrading to 48T ? Getting the Vado 5 components : I assume that's not that much benefit once the 40T is changed to 48T on the Vado 4 or como 4 . Sorta makes you wonder what specialized was thinking : My wife is 5'7 130lbs . Even she rides in only 3 gears 90% of the time .
 
...of the old cassette (which I replaced) you can see I only rode on the smallest 2 sprockets as most of my riding is flatland.
Why not change just the 2 smallest sprocket wheels for a lot less?
The issue is that the tight bends around the small sprockets cause more stress on the chain and on the sprocket, resulting in more wear. By going to the larger front sprocket, ...
@Douglas Ruby
You got me wrong.
I'm not contradicting that moving to a 48T chainring is the right way but asking why to exchange the whole cassette if you could just swap the 11T and 13T small sprockets of the cassette instead, for far less money?
 
@Douglas Ruby
You got me wrong.
I'm not contradicting that moving to a 48T chainring is the right way but asking why to exchange the whole cassette if you could just swap the 11T and 13T small sprockets of the cassette instead, for far less money?

There are two issues here:

1) The first issue is to be able to maintain cruising rates above 20 mph without having to spin yourself to death on Como and Vado equipped with the 40T sprocket. Ideally you want to be able to spin at the upper range of your aerobic output (75-90 rpm typically) at 28 mph on the 13T rear sprocket and have one higher gear left for descents. For speeds above 20 mph but under say 25 mph, it would be useful to go up another sprocket (15T) to increase the chain diameter and reduce wear. You should be able to hit 30+ mph on descents without putting yourself above the upper range of your comfort spin zone using the 11T. Keep in mind that your are usually not in a high torque situation above 28 mph since the motor disengages.

2) The US Class 3 Como's and Vado's with 40T front sprockets already of have a history of premature failure of chains, cassettes, and even front sprockets due to the tight wrap around thge rear cassette. You really are not well served with smaller sprockets (say 10T and 12T) since the tighter wrap around the cassette combined with the far greater torque stress on the chain of a mid-drive, will cause premature failure of the cassette, chain, and potentially the 40T front sprocket.

Therefore the "best" (not cheapest) solution for those who want to ride their 40T Como/Vado as a true Class 3 (rather than 20 mph Class 2 or European 16 mph) is to move to the 48T sprocket. While I don't have mid-drive on my gen 1 Turbo, I faced this same issue originally when it had a 48T front but only an 11-36T 10-speed cassette. I needed a lower-low gear so I changed to a 44T front sprocket and an 11-40T 10 speed cassette. However, I found that I was riding on the 11T and 13T all of the time and neither was ideal. In my case, chain and cassette wear were not issues since I had a rear hub-drive, but gearing was an issue. I can cruise comfortable from 75 - 85 rpm and sustain 90-100 rpm for short distances, but I found myself flirting with my max heart rate when I was trying to maintain 25 mph in 9th gear at 95 rpm and having to drop to 10th which was just a bit too tall. I really needed the 11x48 high gear and wanted the 13x48 and 15x48 for cruising. My solution was to replace the 10 speed SRAM mech with an 11 speed Shimano and go to an 11-42T rear cassette and put the 48T front sprocket back on.
 
I find the gearing on my Vado 5 with the 48t front chain ring pretty good. Without assist those larger cogs get used more. With assist, the smallest cog is used to keep the motor going but it doesn't have a lot of power down there, and neither do the legs:). Motoring along on the level in the 25+ mph range is pretty easy, but still not using the smaller cogs. The wind resistance gets to be pretty high at those speeds.

I did replace the 11t with a 12t so the jump wasn't so great from 13 to 11, and be more useable, but it really wasn't worth the effort and the spacing from 13 to 11 was needed to keep things moving at the 28 mph and above.
 
1) The first issue is to be able to maintain cruising rates above 20 mph without having to spin yourself to death on Como and Vado equipped with the 40T sprocket. Ideally you want to be able to spin at the upper range of your aerobic output (75-90 rpm typically) at 28 mph on the 13T rear sprocket and have one higher gear left for descents. For speeds above 20 mph but under say 25 mph, it would be useful to go up another sprocket (15T) to increase the chain diameter and reduce wear. You should be able to hit 30+ mph on descents without putting yourself above the upper range of your comfort spin zone using the 11T. Keep in mind that your are usually not in a high torque situation above 28 mph since the motor disengages.
I could not agree more.
The Euro Vado 6.0 is geared 48T to 11-46T just to be able to reach 45 km/h at reasonable cadence figure.

I did replace the 11t with a 12t so the jump wasn't so great from 13 to 11, and be more useable, but it really wasn't worth the effort and the spacing from 13 to 11 was needed to keep things moving at the 28 mph and above.
Right!
 
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