Thanks for your reply. I appreciate it. It's not a big deal but over the years I have read that owners have been able to get a bit more performance by adjusting the upper speed limit. I thought it might have something to do with the fact that the Runner1 has only 4 power assist levels. The manual says use a 22" wheel size. I have never understood how "increasing" the wheel size in the settings will actually make the bike go faster.I have seen other recent postings indicating others with 2020 model year bikes that have attempted to increase the speed limit with the same results you have experienced. The prevailing thought is Rad has cracked down on this mod with newer bikes. I do not have enough info to know if it pertains to all models or the production date of when it may have started to occur.
RangerDave
Changing the wheel diameter fakes the display into thinking you are going slower than you are. So go smaller and the bike thinks it needs more rotations of the rear wheel for a given speed. Unfortunately Speedo will be off for same reason.Thanks for your reply. I appreciate it. It's not a big deal but over the years I have read that owners have been able to get a bit more performance by adjusting the upper speed limit. I thought it might have something to do with the fact that the Runner1 has only 4 power assist levels. The manual says use a 22" wheel size. I have never understood how "increasing" the wheel size in the settings will actually make the bike go faster.
To be truthful, 20 mph on the Rad Runner feels very fast to me. It's more the principle of the thing: why doesn't the controller/motor respond as one would expect.I'm happy at 20mph on my RadRunner 1 but my wife got me the display screen for the holidays. So that being said I'll see if I can squeeze a few more mph's out of the system. If it works, great. If not, oh well. But increasing the rear wheel size on mopeds gets you a bit more top speed and the slight trade-off of decreased acceleration. So you will effectively be "tricking" the system by selecting a larger rear wheel size.
In the USA Rad is sold as legally Class 2, max 20 mph. Liability laws are why we can't always have nice things.To be truthful, 20 mph on the Rad Runner feels very fast to me. It's more the principle of the thing: why doesn't the controller/motor respond as one would expect.
We can have "nice things" if we like. It just requires a little creativity. In this case, creativity and the time/money to buy/install a Bolton performance kit. If that's not "nice" enough, there are even more effective ways of dealing with the issue..... just keep adding time and money until it's "nice" enough!In the USA Rad is sold as legally Class 2, max 20 mph. Liability laws are why we can't always have nice things.
I get the Class 2 liability issues. But if Rad is so concerned don't offer the 40 kph option. I'm curious now if I reset the kph to a lower amount than 32, will the motor shut off at the lower limit?In the USA Rad is sold as legally Class 2, max 20 mph. Liability laws are why we can't always have nice things.
You are so right! But why mess with all of that and void warrantees. There are so many companies ( Juiced, Ariel Rider, Sondors) that allow far more adjustment while staying in warranty. Don't get me wrong. Not unhappy with my Rad Runner 1. It suits me well for the purposes for which I purchased it. But frankly the competition is heating up. Being the largest is no guarantee of staying the largest: Polaroid, Kodak, RCA, Zenith!We can have "nice things" if we like. It just requires a little creativity. In this case, creativity and the time/money to buy/install a Bolton performance kit. If that's not "nice" enough, there are even more effective ways of dealing with the issue..... just keep adding time and money until it's "nice" enough!
Don't give them ideas, Rad could easily lockout the entire setup menu. Those other companies are buying from the same vendors, so same thing could happen.I get the Class 2 liability issues. But if Rad is so concerned don't offer the 40 kph option. I'm curious now if I reset the kph to a lower amount than 32, will the motor shut off at the lower limit?
Thanks for that extra comment. I really don't have hills to contend with except for the intracoastal bridges that reach a height of 65 feet above the water. My Rad Runner1 has no problems with that at all: pedal assist 1 or 2 and some intermittent throttle.One other point, I think the fascination with how fast you can go on one of these will wear off quickly - especially when you consider how much battery you're using to do it. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the extra power, but I only use it when I'm climbing a big hill or crossing a busy street. -Al
I don't think you could get extra power to climb a big hill, if you could raise the speed limit to 24mph on a Rad Runner 1 bike. If I could go 25mph on it, I would also use it on occasion to go with car traffic.One other point, I think the fascination with how fast you can go on one of these will wear off quickly - especially when you consider how much battery you're using to do it. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the extra power, but I only use it when I'm climbing a big hill or crossing a busy street. -Al
Extra (hill climbing/acceleration) power available via something like a Bolton kit, a bigger motor, or both! A common move for Rad performance fans....I don't think you could get extra power to climb a big hill, if you could raise the speed limit to 24mph on a Rad Runner 1 bike. If I could go 24mph on it, I would also use it on occasion to go with car traffic.
Absolutely this. After installing the Bolton upgrade I checked out what speeds I could hit on the flat in still air, and that was the last time. Being fully able to program the lower PAS levels to watt numbers useful for me maximizing range and minimizing battery recharging is where the aftermarket controller is paying off.One other point, I think the fascination with how fast you can go on one of these will wear off quickly
Absolutely this. After installing the Bolton upgrade I checked out what speeds I could hit on the flat in still air, and that was the last time. Being fully able to program the lower PAS levels to watt numbers useful for me maximizing range and minimizing battery recharging is where the aftermarket controller is paying off.
Also doesn't hurt having a real-time voltage number, which once you know your bike is a far more reliable remaining range indicator than any contrived battery bar meter.