I have a UK Turbo Vado 4 which has a standard factory fitted SR Suntour NCX E25 suspension fork. The Specialized manual states in section 11 that the fork thru-axle torque is 15Nm. The supplied SR Suntour manual states on page 6 that the front thru-axle torque is 8-10Nm. This is a relatively large discrepancy. I have written to Specialized and await their answer. Has anyone else noted this issue?
Turbo Vado 4 thru-axle torque discrepancy
- Thread starter mordase
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BarryS
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The Vado is fitted with a 15MM Thru Axle according to The website . I would say use the Specialized Torque specs . That fork is likely used on smaller axles more often . The Vado is a Big heavy duty Bike . My Buddy just got a Trek Alliant 7 S . That bike is nice but not built like the Vado : If you have calipers Check the axle size . And use teh Torque based on that . Although Like I said The Vado on USA and UK Webpages show a 15MM Axle . Same Fork either country
Nxkharra
Well-Known Member
Just be careful not to mess up things as I did. The axle is about US$80 and currently out of stock by Specialized.
B
BarryS
Guest
I've had my bike apart when I changed the Front Chain Ring to 48T . How did you mess up? Also just find an After Market Thru axle . It will work just fine . LBS should be able to at least send you in the right direction . I know they have these because on one of Courts Como Videos they showed a Locking Thru axle for security . I doubt Specialized makes the axle they use . Not sure of teh brand . But google search will find you one . Maybe even a better one. I also know some guys have replaced them with QR Axle Bolts . What did you mess up The Axle or the Bolt ?
Nxkharra
Well-Known Member
I did use the torque wrench but didn’t insert the wrench completely and properly in the end of axle. As a result I kind of frayed the hex hole. It is still usable (can take out and put back on) but cosmetically looks bad.
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B
BarryS
Guest
easy to do.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
There are alternative axles in the aftermarket luckily.
Although the recommended torque for the Vado is 15 Nm, I found the value of 10 Nm satisfactory and safe.
Common problem with the Specialized axle.
Look for a better quality axle at robertaxleproject.com.
What Axle Do I Need for My Bike? | The Robert Axle Project
What axle do I need? Follow our directions to determine what thru axle your bike needs. For kid trailers, trainers, BOB Trailers and more.
robertaxleproject.com
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Exactly the point I raised with my original question and with Specialized. The Specialized manual states 15Nm but the Suntour manual supplied with the bike states 8-10Nm. On the basis that less is more that’s nearly a 100% difference at the lower torque setting which is a big discrepancy. The axle screws into the threads of the Suntour fork so one would think this should be the correct figure. Fully agree that one has to be careful when using Allen key fittings in case the bolt head is rounded off but this was more about torque settings. For now I will urge on the cautious side and use 10Nm with grease on the threads which seems more than sufficient. Thanks for the replies.
B
BarryS
Guest
I checked my Torque Value on My 2020 Vado 4 .If we are speaking about the bolt that runs thru the Axle My Vado is torqued at 14 NM give or take The 10NM you are speaking about are the Fork adjustments and have nothing to do with the axle bolt . They adjust rebound damping and air adjustment . I can't imagine you have a different Suntour manual then I have. It shows a quick release as well as thru axle but gives no Torque recommendations for that . It only makes sense the torque on the Fork in the frame be at least 13NM. After all 8-10Nm are specs that you see on handle bars Set posts etc .
Again if your manual from Suntour is the same 11 page manual as mine : There are no torque specs for the axle bolt . They are all for the Fork itself Here's that manual Link
Thanks for the update. Perhaps we have different forks/manuals. The forks fitted to my UK Vado 4 are Suntour NCX E25 with 15mm thru-axle and the manual that came with the bike clearly shows on page 6 a torque setting of 8-10Nm. The plot thickens.
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So Specialized Rider Care replied to my email querying the discrepancy and they confirmed that the correct torque for the front axle fitted to the NCX E25 fork is 8-10Nm. I have pasted their response below.
Response from Rider Care 18/12/2020
Hi,
Thanks for your email, it's always great to hear from riders.
Apologies for the discrepancy in torque values between the two sources supplied with your bike.
I checked our database for your bike and the correct figure is Suntour's 8-10NM. I'll highlight this error with the copywriters for them to correct in future.
Hope this helps,
Kind regards,
Specialized UK Rider Care
Specialized UK Ltd
29 Barwell Business Park,
Leatherhead Road,
Chessington, KT9 2NY
United Kingdom
Response from Rider Care 18/12/2020
Hi,
Thanks for your email, it's always great to hear from riders.
Apologies for the discrepancy in torque values between the two sources supplied with your bike.
I checked our database for your bike and the correct figure is Suntour's 8-10NM. I'll highlight this error with the copywriters for them to correct in future.
Hope this helps,
Kind regards,
Specialized UK Rider Care
Specialized UK Ltd
29 Barwell Business Park,
Leatherhead Road,
Chessington, KT9 2NY
United Kingdom
Looking at this in another light.
Suntour makes the suspension fork only. They don't make the thru axle. They don't make the hub/bearing assy. They have no idea what the end application will be. The thru axle is inserted and threaded so if it does come loose (right hand thread), it is going to remove itself.
Specialized uses the same size thru axle on other bikes, what do they spec the torque at? I know my Sequoia at the rear tire says 130 in. lbs. I'm thinking the Vado thru axles are going to be similar, even the rear thru axle on the Como.
I use anti seize on my thru axles. It keeps the aluminum on aluminum from abrading or galling and tearing the threads. It also has small pieces of aluminum to keep things from coming apart so it is not in the too slick category. You are going to use grease, well, which makes thing slide.
Just my thoughts and processes.
Suntour makes the suspension fork only. They don't make the thru axle. They don't make the hub/bearing assy. They have no idea what the end application will be. The thru axle is inserted and threaded so if it does come loose (right hand thread), it is going to remove itself.
Specialized uses the same size thru axle on other bikes, what do they spec the torque at? I know my Sequoia at the rear tire says 130 in. lbs. I'm thinking the Vado thru axles are going to be similar, even the rear thru axle on the Como.
I use anti seize on my thru axles. It keeps the aluminum on aluminum from abrading or galling and tearing the threads. It also has small pieces of aluminum to keep things from coming apart so it is not in the too slick category. You are going to use grease, well, which makes thing slide.
Just my thoughts and processes.
I was pointing out a discrepancy for the UK Vado Turbo 4 between the Specialized user manual and the Suntour fork manual. The response from Specialized has dealt with the matter confirming that the correct torque is as per the Suntour manual. Makes sense to me as the torque impacts on the threads within the fork. With regard to what compound to use on the threads there are various schools of thought. In my non professional opinion anything that is torqued up should have something as dry threads can end up being over torqued. I’ve never had a problem using an appropriate grease or a locking compound where security of the fitting is critical. Normally the requirement for a locking compound is made clear by the manufacturer. Just to be clear I’m not recommending anything and what people do is at their own risk.
With dry threads the fastener will be undertorqued. Fasteners with lubricated threads will indicate more torque in comparison to dry threads. Different lubricants can indicate different torque values. Torquing a fastener in one swing of the wrench vs. stopping at close to the desired value and restarting will yield a different value on the fastener.
Yes that’s correct - a lubricated thread will yield a different reading to a dry thread along with how the wrench is also used. All good points so some common sense is required as well. Each to their own as to how to interpret and apply manufacturers data. The point of the original thread was to highlight a discrepancy in this data. Thanks for all the input - much appreciated.
