Turbo Creo handlebar height

[PassoGavia]

I'm going to look at a Turbo Creo this weekend. The Specialized web site, and comparisons I've done with my current bikes, have my size as a large (I'm 5'10", 32" inseam).

I'm guessing that with the Future Shock fork, there is no way to add spacers to raise the stem. In other words, the fork tube doesn't come long so you can add spacers and then saw off what you don't need. However, if I do the calculations from Specialized numbers, it looks like the frame stack height is quite high.

In my late 50's now and I ride very upright - the tops of my bars are no more than an inch below my seat. I'm hoping I can get there with the Creo. I saw a photo on this thread that gives me hope (and I realize I may have to buy a different stem).

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[e-levity]

It’s possible to adjust the stem height on the Creo by 30mm. This is done by adding or removing three 5mm spacers and choosing a tall (30mm) or short (15mm) “duckbill” spacer. The bike usually comes mid-height with the tall duckbill installed and the short duckbill and 5mm spacers in the parts kit.

It’s very easy to change spacers. They slide over the future shock, not the steerer tube. (They are different diameter from steerer tube spacers.) You don’t even need to disconnect the stem or bars. Just pry off the two halves of the duckbill, loosen the clamp holding the future shock in place with a 4mm hex, pull the future shock up and out, slide on whatever combination of spacers you want, replace the shock, and tighten the 4mm screw. Less than five min start to finish. Just make sure to align the stem.

You can of course also play with stem length and rise. Your spare parts kit should include a adaptor to allow use of standard stems for 1.125” steerer tubes.

 

[kahn]

A @e-levity mentioned, there are spacers that allow adjustment. I adjusted, re-adjusted and finally adjusted over about three days. Finally opting for the most spacers. Then a few weeks later I changed to a stem with more rise. My neck is about 20 years older than yours!

 

[mschwett]

I'm going to look at a Turbo Creo this weekend. The Specialized web site, and comparisons I've done with my current bikes, have my size as a large (I'm 5'10", 32" inseam).

I'm guessing that with the Future Shock fork, there is no way to add spacers to raise the stem. In other words, the fork tube doesn't come long so you can add spacers and then saw off what you don't need. However, if I do the calculations from Specialized numbers, it looks like the frame stack height is quite high.

In my late 50's now and I ride very upright - the tops of my bars are no more than an inch below my seat. I'm hoping I can get there with the Creo. I saw a photo on this thread that gives me hope (and I realize I may have to buy a different stem).

Thanks for any feedback.

i originally had my creo set up with a 17 degree stem tilted up as shown in the picture in that thread. it worked well, but eventually i got used to the riding position of a road bike and found that i wanted to go lower and lower, so i ended up with a different setup at 6 degrees pointed down.

between a 17 degree up stem, a few added spaces (see e-levity post above!) and the rise of the included handlebars you can get to a very upright riding position. (for a road bike)

if you want that stem for a few bucks, DM me

 

[mschwett]

It’s possible to adjust the stem height on the Creo by 30mm. This is done by adding or removing three 5mm spacers and choosing a tall (30mm) or short (15mm) “duckbill” spacer. The bike usually comes mid-height with the tall duckbill installed and the short duckbill and 5mm spacers in the parts kit.

It’s very easy to change spacers. They slide over the future shock, not the steerer tube. (They are different diameter from steerer tube spacers.) You don’t even need to disconnect the stem or bars. Just pry off the two halves of the duckbill, loosen the clamp holding the future shock in place with a 4mm hex, pull the future shock up and out, slide on whatever combination of spacers you want, replace the shock, and tighten the 4mm screw. Less than five min start to finish. Just make sure to align the stem.

You can of course also play with stem length and rise. Your spare parts kit should include a adaptor to allow use of standard stems for 1.125” steerer tubes.

are you sure about that on the spacers? i didn't get a "short" duckbill, and looking at the future shock manual that came with the bike, it only references short and tall for the roubaix and diverge, not the creo.

i did get a bunch of 5mm spacers and the stem collar adapter, which i've used depending on the stem fitted.

you can see below that the "S1725" ones are roubaix/diverge, the S1925 ones are MY20 Roubaix, and the S1899 one (two piece, one type only) is Creo.

 

[e-levity]

@mschwett - yes, what’s in the spare parts bag seems to vary. I did not get a short duckbill with my Vado SL, so I asked the shop for one so I cloud lower the stem all the way. They gave me a short duckbill they didn’t install on a Roubaix.

Two things to pay attention to: 1. Don’t raise the stem more than 45mm (edit: 30 + 15mm, NOT 60mm!) total or the future shock won’t insert far enough into the steerer to be stable. 2. If you lower the stem make sure everything clears the frame at full rotation.

 

[mschwett]

@mschwett - yes, what’s in the spare parts bag seems to vary. I did not get a short duckbill with my Vado SL, so I asked the shop for one so I cloud lower the stem all the way. They gave me a short duckbill they didn’t install on a Roubaix.

Two things to pay attention to: 1. Don’t raise the stem more than 60mm total or the future shock won’t insert far enough into the steerer to be stable. 2. If you lower the stem make sure everything clears the frame at full rotation.

hm! isn’t the shape of the cutout/frame enough different on a creo that a roubaix one-piece duckbill wouldn’t fit right? does the one on your vado fit perfectly?

 

[Allan47.7339]

@mschwett - yes, what’s in the spare parts bag seems to vary. I did not get a short duckbill with my Vado SL, so I asked the shop for one so I cloud lower the stem all the way. They gave me a short duckbill they didn’t install on a Roubaix.

Two things to pay attention to: 1. Don’t raise the stem more than 60mm total or the future shock won’t insert far enough into the steerer to be stable. 2. If you lower the stem make sure everything clears the frame at full rotation.

Where is the 60mm maximum referenced, I though it was only 3 x 5mm spacers? I did not see it referenced in the Future Shock 2.0/1.5 Manual. Is that a difference between the 1.5 Future Shock and the Creo's 2.0 Future Shock?

As discussed in this Youtube video the 2.0 is an expensive part to break

Specialized Future Shock 1.5 vs 2.0 // Comparison & Compatibility!

 

[mschwett]

Where is the 60mm maximum referenced, I though it was only 3 x 5mm spacers? I did not see it referenced in the Future Shock 2.0/1.5 Manual. Is that a difference between the 1.5 Future Shock and the Creo's 2.0 Future Shock?

As discussed in this Youtube video the 2.0 is an expensive part to break

Specialized Future Shock 1.5 vs 2.0 // Comparison & Compatibility!

yeah... i have never heard anything remotely close to 60mm - but that could easily be the full stack height including the rubber boot portion of the FS cartridge...

 

[Calcoaster]

I agree with Mschwett: the tall “duckbill” that the creo future shock comes with gives 15mm more height than the short one that other bikes can use. You can then add 15 mm in spacers, then flip the stem to give 36mm more height and 11mm less reach than the stock setup. A 17 deg stem (all stems in this example are 110 length) would make it 54mm higher and 21mm shorter reach than the stock setup.

I did option 1 (add 15mm spacers and flip the stem) and my XXL Creo bars are close to my saddle height. I’m 6’3” and set the saddle to 32 inches, measured from BB to saddle top.

Here’s a cool stem calculator that lets you compare two setups.

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

yojimg.net

 

[e-levity]

Thank you for correcting my bad arithmetic, @mschwett !
I corrected the error in my post above.
I’m traveling this month but will try to find the service manual section stating not to extend the stem more than the 30mm duckbill + three 5mm spacers.

 

[kahn]

Thank you for correcting my bad arithmetic, @mschwett !
I corrected the error in my post above.
I’m traveling this month but will try to find the service manual section stating not to extend the stem more than the 30mm duckbill + three 5mm spacers.

Darn PDF would not let me copy so here's a screenshot:

 

[PassoGavia]

This is a great message board - I really appreciate the fast and detailed responses to my query. As I've gotten (ahem) older, position on the bike is really important to me, especially for my hands and arms, and overall position (more upright, less racer).

 

[Allan47.7339]

On my Creo I needed a more upright position. I changed to a 10mm shorter stem (same model as the stock stem), added the max 15mm of spacers, and flipped the stem for a slight rise. I made the changes myself but the FS 2.0 used on the Creo is a little fussy to work on since you need to remove the adjustment cap with a 1.5 mm hex wrench with a square end. The ball end hex tools will just round the tiny screw so I would generally recommend letting the shop do the work. I think my position is about level with the seat so you should not have any problem getting the position you need as long as you start with the nearest correct frame size. I am somewhat in the zone between a L and XL but a ride of the XL felt too big. Even though the XL was on sale and the L was not, I bought the L. Try and ride both the L and M and compare to get the best starting point.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

On my Creo I needed a more upright position. I changed to a 10mm shorter stem (same model as the stock stem), added the max 15mm of spacers, and flipped the stem for a slight rise. I made the changes myself but the FS 2.0 used on the Creo is a little fussy to work on since you need to remove the adjustment cap with a 1.5 mm hex wrench with a square end. The ball end hex tools will just round the tiny screw so I would generally recommend letting the shop do the work. I think my position is about level with the seat so you should not have any problem getting the position you need as long as you start with the nearest correct frame size. I am somewhat in the zone between a L and XL but a ride of the XL felt too big. Even though the XL was on sale and the L was not, I bought the L. Try and ride both the L and M and compare to get the best starting point.

With the Future shock, it does limit the adjustment to a degree, but there are other ways to make the upright position. A shorter stem is a good place to start and I run a 90mm on mine. Have you also inverted your stem, ie upside down and the slope pointing up. This does an awesome job in lifting the front. You can also move the seat forward (and slight up if needed).