Trek Allante+

Does the higher wh just give me more battery time?
Yes.
Anyway, make sure you could upgrade the battery to the larger one.
I would recommend the Vado for three reasons:
  1. The Specialized/Brose motor is completely silent. You won't find that in many other e-bikes, specifically in the Bosch-based Allant;
  2. The Vado's motor is very torquey, meaning rapid acceleration as long as the derailleur is operated properly. There is unbelievably natural riding feeling with the Vado;
  3. The Allant is overpriced.
 
Thanks so much everyone for the insights and recommendations! I ordered the Specialized Vado 4.0 in their dark red. I really appreciate everyone's feedback. Hope everyone stays safe and healthy!! I'll let you know when I pick up the bike! :)
 
Yes.
Anyway, make sure you could upgrade the battery to the larger one.
I would recommend the Vado for three reasons:
  1. The Specialized/Brose motor is completely silent. You won't find that in many other e-bikes, specifically in the Bosch-based Allant;
  2. The Vado's motor is very torquey, meaning rapid acceleration as long as the derailleur is operated properly. There is unbelievably natural riding feeling with the Vado;
  3. The Allant is overpriced.
What about range ?
 
So I am a critical care / emergency nurse for the past 23 years - the last 7 years in management. I am purchasing this bike to support my overall health and stress with all this Covid! My organization is taking an inventory of all the non-clinical RNs to have capacity to re-deploy us to help the front line, which I totally support. Hopefully this bike comes soon!! Truly - thanks everyone for all your input - it helped me make my decision and I"m excited to get the bike!! :)
 
So I am a critical care / emergency nurse for the past 23 years - the last 7 years in management. I am purchasing this bike to support my overall health and stress with all this Covid! My organization is taking an inventory of all the non-clinical RNs to have capacity to re-deploy us to help the front line, which I totally support. Hopefully this bike comes soon!! Truly - thanks everyone for all your input - it helped me make my decision and I"m excited to get the bike!! :)
Congratulations, stay safe and stay healthy!

I ordered my red Turbo Vado 4.0 yesterday as well. :) Didn't really 'need' it, but my wife and I have been riding every day since our County's lockdown (riding is legally allowed, even just for (mental and physical) exercise), and I couldn't resist the great deal Specialized is currently having ($1065 off MSRP after purchase discount and post-purchase rebate).

It will be a couple of weeks at least before I get mine - it has to be shipped to the LBS, which is only working with a skeleton staff.
 
I’ve test ridden both and I recommend you do the same if you can even if you have to take a drive.

The allant motor noise is much more noticeable than the Vado. Pedal assist and overall ride was also smoother on the Vado from what I recall but not much more so.

The battery was a pain to put in on the Vado which you might be doing often if you have to leave your bike in a garage during cold winters for example. The allant battery was much easier to get in. I’m sure with practice you’d find the touch on the Vado.

If you visit your nearest Trek dealer they also have a sale going on now - the 8s is 3800 until mid April I think.
I was unable to find that Trek had a sale going. Is it still happening at your lbs? I was told Trek postponed their Trek fest sale. Anyone know when it will be?
 
Your battery is composed of two parts, the cells which store the energy and the BMS which is the battery management circuit, monitoring cell voltages, communicating with the rest of the system etc.

For a battery pack to work with your system its BMS must be able to communicate with the rest of your components. Some companies like Bosch lock their BMS so that the system only works with Bosch's own batteries. That means if your battery in the future needs replacement you can not just replace the cells, you have to buy a new Battery from Bosch.

But you shouldn't worry about it too much, when you take care of the batteries they last quite a long time.

Whichever you choose enjoy it.
My Bosches are nearing end-of-life after 3 years, at about 1/10th their original range, and I'm getting ready to repack them. I've watched people successfully repacking Bosch batteries on Youtube, are these pople not being honest? These were Bosch Classic+ batteries though, not Powerpacks. Do you have specific knowledge of someone attempting this and failing? I'm very interested to know before I pull the trigger on new cells. Repacking is about $700 cheaper. I'm also wondering whether a totally different BMS would be compatible with the motor and computer. Basically, in that scenario, you would just re-use the battery shell for the connector, and rebuild the internals completely with your own wiring, BMS and nickel strips, and just wire it up to the power port.
 
These were Bosch Classic+ batteries though, not Powerpacks.

To the best of my knowledge BMS on the older Bosch Classic battery does not brick it self when it is disconnected from the battery that is why you see people recelling the classic batteries.

For powerpacks Bosch seems to have "fixed" the issue, when the batteries are disconnected from the BMS, the BMS will brick and will not work even if you connect the batteries back.

I'm also wondering whether a totally different BMS would be compatible
No, Bosch motors will only communicate their own bms(it may even be encrypted). I have seen several comments, posts asking for a Bosch BMS(which you can not find/buy) for their powerpack because after recelling the battery doesn't work. That is probably why there is no video of recelling a powerpack. It should be doable by connecting the bms to a power supply in parallel then disconnecting the battery but this may be too much of a hassle for most. Get in touch with a reputable battery builder, they may help.
 
To the best of my knowledge BMS on the older Bosch Classic battery does not brick it self when it is disconnected from the battery that is why you see people recelling the classic batteries.

For powerpacks Bosch seems to have "fixed" the issue, when the batteries are disconnected from the BMS, the BMS will brick and will not work even if you connect the batteries back.


No, Bosch motors will only communicate their own bms(it may even be encrypted). I have seen several comments, posts asking for a Bosch BMS(which you can not find/buy) for their powerpack because after recelling the battery doesn't work. That is probably why there is no video of recelling a powerpack. It should be doable by connecting the bms to a power supply in parallel then disconnecting the battery but this may be too much of a hassle for most. Get in touch with a reputable battery builder, they may help.
Ok, thanks. The guy rebuilding the Bosch Classic+ just desoldered the BMS from the battery before the re-cell, then re-soldered afterward. I wonder if that works on the Powerpacks as well.
 
Ok, thanks. The guy rebuilding the Bosch Classic+ just desoldered the BMS from the battery before the re-cell, then re-soldered afterward. I wonder if that works on the Powerpacks as well.

I believe I answered this question.

In powerpacks when you desolder the BMS, it(BMS) bricks itself and does not turn back on even if you re-solder a brand new battery pack. Older Classic BMS' don't brick when they are desoldered.
 
I believe I answered this question.

In powerpacks when you desolder the BMS, it(BMS) bricks itself and does not turn back on even if you re-solder a brand new battery pack. Older Classic BMS' don't brick when they are desoldered.
Oh, I see now. So I would need to get an adjustable/programmable benchtop power supply, set it to the correct voltage (and amperage?) and figure out how to wire it into the BMS--I assume by soldering it onto the same contact points on the BMS. Then I would need to desolder the BMS from the battery, repack, and reverse the process. Of course, if I do something wrong I could probably fry the BMS with too much current. Is there a good resource for looking into doing that properly besides general electrical knowledge or contacting a battery rebuilder? I feel like the latter may not be inclined to help someone who won't turn into a paying customer.
 
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