Too fast launch speed
- Thread starter whbrown99
- Start date
My Rad is the step thru model, so I start with my butt on the seat and both feet on the ground, or a least one touching for balance. I just give it a little throttle and go, by this way I find I have good control of the bike as speed is where the balance is. Like I said, pretty much the same way you start off on a motorcycle. My wife has the same Rad Mini and she starts off pretty much the same way, but she does tend to use the peddles more then I do. I do find that you have to have your bike pointed in the direction you want to go, if you have to make a sharp turn that is 5-10 ft. in front of you and with the power throttle you could find yourself there pretty quick. I find all this a plus and very happy with the throttle operations as they are. Yes, I always start off with the throttle, the only way I feel comfortable on startup.
Tinman, your right about the turn comes up quick. First time I rode it I shot down the driveway rather fast crossed the road and hit my mailbox. I forgot the brakes kill the power. Since then, I start exactly as you described. The biggest problem is the sweet spot on the throttle find where the power comes on. Very fine line.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Holy Smoke, that's a KT based display. Because I believe they only work with a KT controller (the brand I was steering you towards) I think you may already have a KT controller as well!
Your familiar with how to get into the setup you have the directions for, by waiting 5 seconds and holding the up and down arrows down, if I'm right and they don't have it password protected, there's ANOTHER set of parameters containing some stuff you are interested in.... You access them by NOT waiting 5 seconds to hold the up and down buttons. You turn the display on, and press the up and down buttons at the same time immediatly after the screen powers up.
Try that and let me know what happens. If it comes up and asks you for a password, you can get around that by simply replacing the display. That's where all the settings are stored - including the password. -Al
Your familiar with how to get into the setup you have the directions for, by waiting 5 seconds and holding the up and down arrows down, if I'm right and they don't have it password protected, there's ANOTHER set of parameters containing some stuff you are interested in.... You access them by NOT waiting 5 seconds to hold the up and down buttons. You turn the display on, and press the up and down buttons at the same time immediatly after the screen powers up.
Try that and let me know what happens. If it comes up and asks you for a password, you can get around that by simply replacing the display. That's where all the settings are stored - including the password. -Al
harryS
Well-Known Member
It's a KT controller. This is the programming manual for the LCD5.
It is set for 5 PAS levels, so they were right when they admitted 9 levels was not true.
There are a limited numbers of things you can change with the C -parameters, described in the above manual.
-First count the number of magnets in your PAS disk. The C1 parameter can be changed to make the PAS less sensitive, and the value depends on whether you have 5, 8, 10, or 12 magnets. I have never tried it.
-The C5 parameter reduces the maximum current, and may reduce the takeoff speed. It will probably also reduce your maximum speed. I tried it once, without riding the bike, and it did change the no load speed. Nontheless, maybe a 20% reduction will make a difference for you.
-Leave the C9 value alone. It sets the password to start the bike. Sounds like a good idea, but is a pain in the neck in practice, and some who have done it seemed to do it wrong and got locked out of their controller forever.
-C14 also affects pedal assist strength. You might try lowering it to 1.
If you screw up the settings, setting C10 to "y" brings back the default values. You moight want to rite down all the stored settings before you change anything.
Most of my ebikes use KT-controllers. I just leave them set at max current.
It is set for 5 PAS levels, so they were right when they admitted 9 levels was not true.
There are a limited numbers of things you can change with the C -parameters, described in the above manual.
-First count the number of magnets in your PAS disk. The C1 parameter can be changed to make the PAS less sensitive, and the value depends on whether you have 5, 8, 10, or 12 magnets. I have never tried it.
-The C5 parameter reduces the maximum current, and may reduce the takeoff speed. It will probably also reduce your maximum speed. I tried it once, without riding the bike, and it did change the no load speed. Nontheless, maybe a 20% reduction will make a difference for you.
-Leave the C9 value alone. It sets the password to start the bike. Sounds like a good idea, but is a pain in the neck in practice, and some who have done it seemed to do it wrong and got locked out of their controller forever.
-C14 also affects pedal assist strength. You might try lowering it to 1.
If you screw up the settings, setting C10 to "y" brings back the default values. You moight want to rite down all the stored settings before you change anything.
Most of my ebikes use KT-controllers. I just leave them set at max current.
Last edited:
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I agree it's most likely a KT controller. We just need to know if it's locked down/password protected by the OEM.
I am the more curious type. I've changed about everything there is to change, and have run them in all sorts of available combination just to see what happens.
Number of magnets won't change anything.
One that might, would be P3. That's the one that lets you select "imitation torque control", vs. "speed control". "Imitation torque control" has each PAS level assigning how much power (voltage) is available to the motor. This vs. "speed control", that assigns a max speed to each PAS level.
The imitation torque control is the VASTLY superior choice. It's the reason the KT's work so well......
I am the more curious type. I've changed about everything there is to change, and have run them in all sorts of available combination just to see what happens.
Number of magnets won't change anything.
One that might, would be P3. That's the one that lets you select "imitation torque control", vs. "speed control". "Imitation torque control" has each PAS level assigning how much power (voltage) is available to the motor. This vs. "speed control", that assigns a max speed to each PAS level.
The imitation torque control is the VASTLY superior choice. It's the reason the KT's work so well......
I checked out the bike out tonight to find the installed components and that busted my bubble somewhat. The LCD is not a KT after all. Turns out it is a Big Stone C500B. There is some information on the web about programming but certainly less than a KT. The motor controller is a CD MOTO CONTROLLER BY LITHIUMBATTERY. Not much information on the web for this. See photo. I’m at the point of it is what it is and learn to ride it. I have marked the throttle so I can tell when I’m coming up on power. Tried that out and think that will work out. I want to thank all for the suggestions and help because I have learned a lot. Plan is to get use to the throttle and then play around PAS.
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