Too fast launch speed

whbrown99

New Member
I purchased a Greenbike USA a couple of years ago for riding around the campground I camp at. Here’s my problem. I am older pushing 80 but don’t have a problem riding a bike. On my e-bike, when I start out from a stopped position, the bike accelerates so hard either with the throttle or pedal assist I feel out of control. Is there a throttle isn’t so sensitive? If I really concentrate am really sneak up on it I am OK. Just looking for something I can ease forward without it’s going to dump me off the back. The motor is a 750 watt. Thanks for the help.
 
Are you starting off in PAS 1? That's important on some systems to avoid what you are describing.
 
Yes I am starting in PAS1. When I start peddling in PAS 1 I will move out about 1 foot and then the motor kicks in hard. I’m wanting a slow ramp up to speed.
 
It's an issue that comes up often. It's the controller and the way it is programmed. Contact Greenbike and see if the controller can be reprogrammed. It's usually finding the parameter to change by accessing through the display.
 
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I see that GreenBike sells mostly 20 inch fat tire bikes. Thumb throttle. Nine level PAS? Usually, with that many PAS levels, PAS 1 should be tame enough for a smooth start.

I would suggest more practice with the throttle. If it works in PAS 0, start there. Otherwise don't pedal in PAS 1, and just ease in throttle.

I see the bike has a 6KMh (4 mph) walk mode. You could see if you can work the buttons to start in walk mode. Usually they drop out of walk mode if you touch the brakes, but by then you are moving.

After 5 years of ebike ownership, I've gotten lazy and always start my bikes off on throttle.
 
Thanks harryS, you are correct the bike is a 20 inch fat tire. The PAS was supposed to be 9 levels but turned out when I received it, it is 5 levels. Level 1 is still pretty aggressive as soon as the pedal moves. Not necessary fast but a violent enough to try to lift the front wheel. What I am doing now PAS 0, pedal to start movement and then use the throttle. I wish I could find a throttle that had more travel that I could ease into the power. I'm thinking Greenbike is fading into the sunset so I don't see much help there. As for walk mode, the control for PAS is on the touch screen but if I could retrofit a control the secondary buttons to change the PAS level, that would help. But you are so correct, I need much more practice to gain confidence.
 
Thanks harryS, you are correct the bike is a 20 inch fat tire. The PAS was supposed to be 9 levels but turned out when I received it, it is 5 levels. Level 1 is still pretty aggressive as soon as the pedal moves. Not necessary fast but a violent enough to try to lift the front wheel. What I am doing now PAS 0, pedal to start movement and then use the throttle. I wish I could find a throttle that had more travel that I could ease into the power. I'm thinking Greenbike is fading into the sunset so I don't see much help there. As for walk mode, the control for PAS is on the touch screen but if I could retrofit a control the secondary buttons to change the PAS level, that would help. But you are so correct, I need much more practice to gain confidence.
Secondary buttons? Buttons or throttle are not the issue, it's the programming. There are traditional trikes running around with gentle acceleration, should be the same for a bicycle. It's a computer after all, it just needs the right parameters. If there was an option for 9 levels of PAS and you have 5, that also is a programming issue. I prefer the 9 steps on my tadpole trike. It gives me more levels of assist that let me fine tune speed and extend battery range. Have someone take a video of that bike doing a wheelie. I've heard of that phenomena, but never seen it. Body position and bicycle control are under your control.
 
A common complaint with hub-drive bikes. Our Bafang hub conversion does this too. Wife got used to either HANG ON, or start in pas 0, then either throttle or switch to pas 1.

I test rode both the Aventon Pace 500 and 350 models. This effect is fairly pronounced with these bikes. So the 350 with it's less powerful motor was actually easier to ride. And it was a third less the cost!

It's a fairly complex project to change out he controller and rewire the bike for something with adjust-ability in the pas settings. At least for me...I dropped out of electrical class in junior college. LOL
 
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Thanks all, It doesn't appear that Greenbike USA will be much help at all, not sure if they are still alive. Options don't seem great. I was hoping to find a thumb throttle with more travel than mine which might make it easier to ease into the power band. I got the 750 watt motor in order to handle the hills better and this is probably my biggest problem, too much torque on take off. I have a Giant bike on which I installed an e-bike kit with a rear hub motor and I thinking it is 350 watts and I don't have this issue with it at all. With the skinny tires, it is not practical at my campground. Besides that, the bike is a little to big for me. If I knew which components to replace, I would go down that road because basically I like the bike.
 
Have you tried switching to 9 increments in the PAS. I would think this might be possible through the display if you got into programming mode. That way the available power would be split up differently, I.e., less for each step, including PAS 1 and that might be enough to make your bike more manageable. Best of luck.
 
OK, if you've built a bike on your own, it's not that hard to swap out ALL the electrical on this bike, with another "kit" that's minus the motor and battery. You install that "kit" using your motor and battery over again, so it's even easier than building a bike.

I'm an avid DIY'er and did this on a bike I bought when it was only 6 weeks old. I couldn't STAND the programming on that bike, much as you are having issues with your programming. Whole process was done in a day here. Biggest issues are matching up the wiring. That's going to require some patience.

I HIGHLY recommend a kit using a KT controller (at least 20 amps capacity for your 750, a little more won't hurt a thing) and the KT LCD3 display. This will allow you to feather your "launches" like you should be able to do.

The reason your's is doing what it is is because the software is speed based in each PAS level. If it were based on the amout of power supplied, like the KT based and other better systems are, you wouldn't have this issue.

If you're up for it, this plan is much less money than another bike. Bonus's include the fact all components are available on the open market, and you'll come out of it with a working knowledge of the electrical system on your bike.

Because your PAS levels are speed based, I doubt a better throttle is going to serve your purpose. -Al
 
Jaizon, when I received the bike it was supposed to have 9 levels of PAS and when I check mine it was only 5. I contacted the dealer and was told they could not get the 9 levels to work. Since then all Greenbike USA say 5 levels of PAS. Not sure how to program for 9 levels.
AHicks, I think you have the best plan of attack. My son-in-law who is very well built and strong says "your bike is dangerious". So I will be seeking the help of forum members as to the best components for my needs and do a little part switching. I would think the battery and motor would be the most costly items and they will be reused on a new set up. Am I thinking straight that I would only need a new motor controller and control panel? Thanks all.
 
Jaizon, when I received the bike it was supposed to have 9 levels of PAS and when I check mine it was only 5. I contacted the dealer and was told they could not get the 9 levels to work. Since then all Greenbike USA say 5 levels of PAS. Not sure how to program for 9 levels.
AHicks, I think you have the best plan of attack. My son-in-law who is very well built and strong says "your bike is dangerious". So I will be seeking the help of forum members as to the best components for my needs and do a little part switching. I would think the battery and motor would be the most costly items and they will be reused on a new set up. Am I thinking straight that I would only need a new motor controller and control panel? Thanks all.

Some dealers...harrumph! Okay, one more suggestion. Just sell your bike as it is (there are plenty of guys out there who would love that jump off the line) and put the money into a new bike from another company. The market for used e-bikes is quite good now, so it shouldn't be too hard to sell, i.e., lots of dealers are out of stock and people are tired of waiting. There is nothing wrong with Mr. Hicks suggestion, it's just that there are so many possible complications and the season is passing very quickly. I'm past the age of "doing it myself" and more into the age of "pay the other guy to do it is so much easier". ;) Either way, I hope you continue to enjoy your riding.
 
I understand what your saying about selling and buying another. Problem is I like the bike and buying another especially of the internet is I could go from bad to worse. Because of my age and mobility, I really need a step thru bike and the one I have is compact enough to fit the bill. A lot of thinking to do. And I do understand the season going fast, too fast. Jaizon, I'm also at the age of paying another guy to make my troubles go away. I'd like to find that guy that I could say to, fix it and call me tomorrow when it's done.
 
I have a Rad Mini Step Thru, a 20" fat tire bike. I do know what you are saying about when you start peddling, but for myself I just use the throttle and I like the start peddling feel as I feel it gets me going at a safe speed that I feel gives me good control of the bike. I'm 75 so control is important for me to, but let me say here, I have just hung up my dual sport motorcycle riding days so the feel of some power is much to my liking, it's always been there for me. I feel I ride my Rad Mini as I would ride a motorcycle, it's just hard for me not to ride that way.
 
Trainman, you have a very similar setup as mine. In fact I was considering a Rad But bought the Greenbike. I think Rad would offer better support. The dealer was great to work with, not so sure about the manufacture though. Tell me how you leave from a dead start. Do you pedal off and then use the throttle Or do you start off with the throttle?
 
The nice thing about the Rad would be that if you were in the same situation you are in right now, there's a hop up kit by Bolton that you could just plug in and be done with it. Pretty popular because it's all plug and play and because it gets rid of a bottleneck in the power delivery. Bonus is it let's you customize the controller programming with quite a few different parameters. Funny thing is, it uses the same KT components I'd like to see you use on your project.

You're right. All you need is the controller and display.

Check this out. I've bought from them several times. Pay particular attention to the wiring diagram. It's showing you what's going to need to be matched. There's not going to be any step by step directions. That schematic is about it.

 
Do you know what kind of display is on your bike? Here's a reference video on the system used on my tadpole trike and how to control some settings. St 6 is the setting for number of PAS levels. A lot of displays allow this. If you experiment, write down where you start before hitting more buttons.
 
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I will look real close tomorrow evening or Saturday, take pictures and try to see what components I have. Unfortunately Greenbikes is very skinny with manuals or directions so they give you a sink or swim. I’ve sent both Greenbikes and the dealer emails but as of yet no response. I really do appreciate all the help and encouragement I’m getting from the members of this forums. Thanks all.
 
I think some of you may not realize all throttles are not programmed the same
Some are a smooth ramp up and modulated, some are hair trigger and any twist etc gives 80-90% which is probably what this person has

It is a problem with a lot of these bikes unfortunately

I know nothing about green bikes but do a search for the display model and it may be that you can find how to get into the advanced programming and change things a little bit

this may or may not be possible and it may or may not help, but would be the first thing I would try

see if possible to go to 9 pas levels and maybe even change the tire size setting??? I don’t know if that would help but maybe worth a try

sorry for your troubles, I have been in this same boat and know how aggravating it is

I try to test ride all cadence hub motors before buying for this exact reason
But like you said you cannot always test ride these online bikes ...
 
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