stompandgo's Pinarello Nytro E5 Allroad build thread

btw, in Europe the standard for e-bike frontlights is like this

View attachment 201560

you ,ight have dialed in the frontlight after the photo's... how it looks at this moment, you would be blinding truck drivers

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It's perspective on the photo. Look at the side view. Even though the light is round, it has a flat cutoff to Euro standard. It may need some adjusting, though. I'll check it out.
 
Jeremy, the technique of riding in loose sand looks like this (at least in my case):
  • TURBO mode on
  • A very low gear
  • Assume a possibly most upright riding position
  • Touch the handlebars very delicately just to steer the bike but your weight must be off the bars
  • If descending, ride through the sand at the full speed. It is a scary experience but it works!
It works unless the terrain is just a sand desert :)
Thanks, I'll give that a try!
 
I am in the process of upgrading the ProMax F1 brakes on the Pinarello (it should have come with Deore), to XTR. I was not happy with the performance of the F1's after bedding them in. The frame is set up for flat mount front and rear. I wanted to use the XTR XC levers, which are small, lightweight, and responsive. The caveat is, they use low viscosity oil. Shimano makes a rear-only flat mount brake caliper for LV oil, the MT805, which is a direct mount for 160mm rotors. The problem is the front. The XTR caliper is post mount, so I had to use an adapter. Shimano does not make a flat mount front caliper that is designed for LV oil. I find that ridiculous, since it was Shimano who pushed the industry into flat mount to begin with. Both rotors were upgraded to Dura-Ace CL900.

xtr (Custom).jpg

mt805 (Custom).jpg

rotor (Custom).jpg
 
Keep this up, and you'll have the most tricked-out flat-bar Pinarello on the planet!


I know nothing about this stuff, but caliper mount issues turned out to be the biggest headaches in this flat-bar conversion project. Might be something helpful here.
 
I am in the process of upgrading the ProMax F1 brakes on the Pinarello (it should have come with Deore), to XTR. I was not happy with the performance of the F1's after bedding them in. The frame is set up for flat mount front and rear. I wanted to use the XTR XC levers, which are small, lightweight, and responsive. The caveat is, they use low viscosity oil. Shimano makes a rear-only flat mount brake caliper for LV oil, the MT805, which is a direct mount for 160mm rotors. The problem is the front. The XTR caliper is post mount, so I had to use an adapter. Shimano does not make a flat mount front caliper that is designed for LV oil. I find that ridiculous, since it was Shimano who pushed the industry into flat mount to begin with. Both rotors were upgraded to Dura-Ace CL900.

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Hey, Chris, am I seeing some optical illusion or is that rotor more of a conical section than a flat circle? Is that typical? Is that what you mean by a "flat mount?” Pardon the ignorance; that looks very weird to me.
 
Keep this up, and you'll have the most tricked-out flat-bar Pinarello on the planet!


I know nothing about this stuff, but caliper mount issues turned out to be the biggest headaches in this flat-bar conversion project. Might be something helpful here.
That's a gorgeous bike. I love what they did with it. The Orca is a race bike, though, whereas my Allroad is based on a gravel frame (Grevil). The geometry is very different than the Orca. I don't have to worry about twitchiness. I did shorten the bars to 660mm as part of this upgrade, and I will be swapping the stem for a 110cm from the 100cm stock stem, based on my fit parameters. Unfortunately, because of the headlight, I will have to pull the internal battery and drop the motor to disconnect it (Pinarello TICR - every hose/cable/wire runs through the stem). The upside is that should make it a lot easier to run the rear brake hose.

I made my own problems with the calipers by choosing M9200. I could have taken the sane route and gone with Deore XT M8100, which are flat mount front and rear.
 
Hey, Chris, am I seeing some optical illusion or is that rotor more of a conical section than a flat circle? Is that typical? Is that what you mean by a "flat mount?” Pardon the ignorance; that looks very weird to me.
I don't see this, but it's probably my cellphone's distortion. The rotor is a standard CL900 Dura-Ace rotor, as perfectly circular as they make them.
 
I don't see this, but it's probably my cellphone's distortion. The rotor is a standard CL900 Dura-Ace rotor, as perfectly circular as they make them.
Wouldn’t be the first time I was seeing things, Chris! :) Thanks.
 
That's a gorgeous bike. I love what they did with it. The Orca is a race bike, though, whereas my Allroad is based on a gravel frame (Grevil). The geometry is very different than the Orca. I don't have to worry about twitchiness. I did shorten the bars to 660mm as part of this upgrade, and I will be swapping the stem for a 110cm from the 100cm stock stem, based on my fit parameters. Unfortunately, because of the headlight, I will have to pull the internal battery and drop the motor to disconnect it (Pinarello TICR - every hose/cable/wire runs through the stem). The upside is that should make it a lot easier to run the rear brake hose.

I made my own problems with the calipers by choosing M9200. I could have taken the sane route and gone with Deore XT M8100, which are flat mount front and rear.
Must be be nice to have a highly-customized high-end bike put together by somebody who knows what they're doing!

Really eager to see the finshed product out in the wild with beaches in the background. Bet you are, too.

I know, I know, bikes are like software — never finished, just released.
 
I am in the process of upgrading the ProMax F1 brakes on the Pinarello (it should have come with Deore), to XTR. I was not happy with the performance of the F1's after bedding them in. The frame is set up for flat mount front and rear. I wanted to use the XTR XC levers, which are small, lightweight, and responsive. The caveat is, they use low viscosity oil. Shimano makes a rear-only flat mount brake caliper for LV oil, the MT805, which is a direct mount for 160mm rotors. The problem is the front. The XTR caliper is post mount, so I had to use an adapter. Shimano does not make a flat mount front caliper that is designed for LV oil. I find that ridiculous, since it was Shimano who pushed the industry into flat mount to begin with. Both rotors were upgraded to Dura-Ace CL900.

View attachment 205378
View attachment 205379
View attachment 205380
Looks great! I'm putting a 2nd wheelset together so I can have a nicer road set and use the old wheels as a winter/off-road set. Got a pair of MT900 rotors for the new wheels. The CL's look a little cleaner to me, but the MT900 is available with the speed sensor magnet I need on my Bosch (and it's half the price).

My original wheels have the MT800's which work fine, but the light colored cooling fins ALWAYS look grungy. Hopefully the black will be better in that respect.

@stompandgo . Have you had any problems with the valve stems on the Tubolitos? All of mine eventually started leaking where the plastic stem threads on. I got one of Silca's new TPU tubes on sale last month and it seems nice, although overpriced like most TPU's.
 
Hey, Chris, am I seeing some optical illusion or is that rotor more of a conical section than a flat circle? Is that typical? Is that what you mean by a "flat mount?” Pardon the ignorance; that looks very weird to me.
I also see that rotor as conical — even though I know it must be planar. Struck me the first time I saw it, and I still see it that way.

Cool illusion. Maybe it's the lighting.
 
Looks great! I'm putting a 2nd wheelset together so I can have a nicer road set and use the old wheels as a winter/off-road set. Got a pair of MT900 rotors for the new wheels. The CL's look a little cleaner to me, but the MT900 is available with the speed sensor magnet I need on my Bosch (and it's half the price).
Pinarello chose the Zipp CL locknuts because the speed sensor magnet slips over them. Shimano USA doesn't seem to carry the MT900's, not sure why. I was considering either the MT800 or CL900.
My original wheels have the MT800's which work fine, but the light colored cooling fins ALWAYS look grungy. Hopefully the black will be better in that respect.

@stompandgo . Have you had any problems with the valve stems on the Tubolitos? All of mine eventually started leaking where the plastic stem threads on. I got one of Silca's new TPU tubes on sale last month and it seems nice, although overpriced like most TPU's.
So far so good with the Tubolitos. We carry about five different brands, so if they don't work out, I have options. I can always go tubeless as well.
 
Cool illusion. Maybe it's the lighting.
Jeremy, I think the illusion is caused by reflections off the dished (non-planar) surface of the inner part of the rotor — which is the dark grey part of the picture. I’m not sure if that part of the rotor assembly has a technical name. I haven’t seen that kind of curved surface before, although perhaps it’s a common Shimano thing?? Anyway, they probably build the assembly that way for strength. It’s kind of a cool illusion, but I also understand why Chris doesn’t see it when he looks at the picture.
 
Now I understand what you were referring to. The "technical name" is a marketing name, "Ice Technologies Freeza". The black inner sections form a heat sink/radiator to cool the rotor. Some are painted white, others are black. It's a Shimano thing.

Ice Freeza
 
Small correction on my part: the rotors with integrated magnets are the EM810 and EM910. Essentially the same as the MT800 and MT900 but the center piece has a built in spot on one arm for the magnet assembly.

@Chazmo the black coating allows Shimano to differentiate the XTR/DuraAce level part from the gray/white XT part and supposedly has slightly better heat dissipation. Probably the most tangible effect is ensuring a slightly lighter wallet:)
 
The difference in cost between the MT800 and CL900 was under $10 USD. I like the way that the black looks over the white, and it's about 10g lighter.
 
The Pinarello brake upgrades are finished.

XTR M9200 XC levers
cockpit (Custom).jpg


M9200 post mount caliper and TRP front flat mount to post mount adapter
front brake (Custom).jpg


MT805 rear flat mount rear caliper directly mounted, new BH90 hose.
rear brake (Custom).jpg


I'm not a big fan of adapters, but the TRP was the cleanest looking one that I could find. Much nicer than the Shimano. Replacing the Promax hoses was pretty straightforward. I used the Park IR kit to attach them together and push the new hoses through the frame.

Part of this upgrade was to swap the 100mm stem for a 110mm stem, based on my fit. That meant that I had to remove the headlight wiring. One wire goes to the TQ Smartbox inside the top tube, but the other wire goes to either the motor or the battery. I wanted to avoid removing either the motor or battery, so I had to find another way. I used a pull wire when I removed the headlight. The wire was connected in the motor area using two PresLok connectors. I clipped the connectors off and used the headlight wire to fish a piece of hookup wire back through for the reverse pull. The pull wire has to go through the new stem and TICR headset before entering the frame. After feeding it through, the headlight wire kept getting hung up, probably on a battery mount. It eventually broke as I tried to finesse it around the obstacle. At that point, I wanted to give it one more shot before dropping the motor. I used a piece of bailing wire to make a straight fish wire, which went past the obstacle on the first try. I fished it back and reconnected it to the supply with two new PresLoks.

You might remember that I had a lot of trouble with the headset not seating correctly and loosening up while riding. The Promax brake hoses were either not the right size or not installed correctly, even after I reconfigured them. The new BH90 hoses were no problem. TICR is always tricky to configure, but once I got the hoses and wiring in place and the tension correct, adjusting the headset was easy.

Filling and bleeding both brakes was also easy. I used the standard Shimano style lever cup and single syringe method, both part of a generic Amazon CYCOBYCO bleed kit. The syringes in that kit are high quality and come with replacement o-rings. It took about 8 passes for each brake to get all of the air out. Tapping the brake calipers, levers, and exposed hoses got the last of it.

On the stand, they feel strong and firm with no squish. Of course, the real test will be on the road, which might be a while since we have yet another Nor'easter coming tomorrow and Monday. I really like the lever throw adjustment on the XTR levers. I could easily balance the lever pulls to be equal.

You might have noticed that I swapped the 45mm Gravel King X1+ tires for 40mm. The 45mm only had about 3mm of fender clearance on the rear, which is too tight for comfort. The 40mm have about 10mm. No issues there.
 
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The Pinarello brake upgrades are finished.

XTR M9200 XC levers
View attachment 206280

M9200 post mount caliper and TRP front flat mount to post mount adapter
View attachment 206283

MT805 rear flat mount rear caliper directly mounted, new BH90 hose.
View attachment 206284

I'm not a big fan of adapters, but the TRP was the cleanest looking one that I could find. Much nicer than the Shimano. Replacing the Promax hoses was pretty straightforward. I used the Park IR kit to attach them together and push the new hoses through the frame.

Part of this upgrade was to swap the 100mm stem for a 110mm stem, based on my fit. That meant that I had to remove the headlight wiring. One wire goes to the TQ Smartbox inside the top tube, but the other wire goes to either the motor or the battery. I wanted to avoid removing either the motor or battery, so I had to find another way. I used a pull wire when I removed the headlight. The wire was connected in the motor area using two PresLok connectors. I clipped the connectors off and used the headlight wire to fish a piece of hookup wire back through for the reverse pull. The pull wire has to go through the new stem and TICR headset before entering the frame. After feeding it through, the headlight wire kept getting hung up, probably on a battery mount. It eventually broke as I tried to finesse it around the obstacle. At that point, I wanted to give it one more shot before dropping the motor. I used a piece of bailing wire to make a straight fish wire, which went past the obstacle on the first try. I fished it back and reconnected it to the supply with two new PresLoks.

You might remember that I had a lot of trouble with the headset not seating correctly and loosening up while riding. The Promax brake hoses were either not the right size or not installed correctly, even after I reconfigured them. The new BH90 hoses were no problem. TICR is always tricky to configure, but once I got the hoses and wiring in place and the tension correct, adjusting the headset was easy.

Filling and bleeding both brakes was also easy. I used the standard Shimano style lever cup and single syringe method, both part of a generic Amazon CYCOBYCO bleed kit. The syringes in that kit are high quality and come with replacement o-rings. It took about 8 passes for each brake to get all of the air out. Tapping the brake calipers, levers, and exposed hoses got the last of it.

On the stand, they feel strong and firm with no squish. Of course, the real test will be on the road, which might be a while since we have yet another Nor'easter coming tomorrow and Monday. I really like the lever throw adjustment on the XTR levers. I could easily balance the lever pulls to be equal.

You might have noticed that I swapped the 45mm Gravel King X1+ tires for 40mm. The 45mm only had about 3mm of fender clearance on the rear, which is too tight for comfort. The 40mm have about 10mm. No issues there.
The Nytro's looking great — very classy. Interesting look inside the build process.
 
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