Starting my bike conversions.... no questions yet...

Popparex

New Member
Region
USA
The kits arrived today (TongSheng 750W motors) and i am digging right in. All the parts look pretty rugged and i am happy with that. Started on my wife's bike first. The first issue i encountered is that 30 years of moving and 4 kids messing with my stuff, my crank puller is not with my bike tools. I spent 40 minutes trying to use a bearing puller but it didn't work so off i went to buy a new one. A trip well worth the time and $ as i had the cranks off in 5 minutes. Unfortunately, pulling the cranks identified another tool i need. the shimano cranks use an internal toothed lock ring for the spindle, so i need to check with the local shop tomorrow for a removal tool or order from amazon. So i am delayed.

I also notice i may have some issue with installing the brake sensors as the derailleur switch looks like it may be integrated with the brake levers. I'll pull those off tomorrow and see what i can rig up if i can't find any YouTube vids on the subject.

Nothing disheartening yet. :)

Rob
 
OK... i have a question. both bikes have the read derailleur integrated with the rear brake. I need to install the new brake with the motor cutoff switch. I am thinking i just need to remove the brake lever from the original combo but it may be that the pin is pressed in with a flange on each side so it doesn't come out? Should i just drill it out or is there another way? Off to look for videos...
 
I ended up drilling the brake lever post out and it worked well. Looks decent.
rear deraillieur.jpg


Everything i found on you tube was really kludgy, using epoxy or electrical tape.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JRA
Next question. should i install a new chain? Is there a more rugged chain for ebikes, or just leave it and buy a spare in case it ever breaks?
 
My one word of advice after setting up a number of TSDZ2's is to not get hung up on the rear hold down device and just let the motor rest up against the bottom of the down tube. Use the two hole tab washer though and tighten the pish out of the outer ring and keep an eye on it for awhile til it seats firmly. You can check this while the crank is on btw but best initially if done before installing crank.

Also it is important that the inner drive side sets firmly on the bb shell. Sometimes the reduction gear housing will hit the chainstay before this occurs. Use a washer of some sort to shim it. Otherwise it will never tighten properly and the housing will have added stress on it.

Also check the crank bolts every ride for awhile as they will loosen. You don't need to force them with too much torque actually just over snug til once again they seat themselves. Keep an eye on them over time also while checking the bb ring.
 
Next question. should i install a new chain? Is there a more rugged chain for ebikes, or just leave it and buy a spare in case it ever breaks?
The big issue with the TS as well as other kit mid-drives is chain line on derailleur based systems. Because the reduction housing causes the chain ring to sit further out than normal it can cause issues. There are some ways to combat this but you should be fine with your current chain as long as it is working ok now to at least see what crops up. If you get alot of skipping/clunking it may not just be the chain but that effect in other words.
 
Next question. should i install a new chain? Is there a more rugged chain for ebikes, or just leave it and buy a spare in case it ever breaks?
If you are using an IGH or single-speed setup there are some options for a stronger chain. For derailleur gears just make sure you aren’t using a narrower chain than you need to, say a 10 speed chain with a 9 speed cassette.
 
the motor as a single gear if that's what you mean? The bike i am working on has a 9 speed cassette. I don't think i need to shorten the chain since she has 3 speeds in the front with the smallest gear being 26 teeth. the motor comes with a 44T gear so if the derailleur worked with the smaller gear it should be OK with this. ??
 
So i got the shimano tool and removed the crank spindle. Next step is install the motor... easy-peasy right? Guffaw. What none of the videos that i found so far address is the fact that the rear derailleur cable runs under the spindle housing and is directly in the way of the motor. not sure how i would rerun the cable so another standstill until i can find some info. *sigh* This was fun, now it's getting slightly less so. :)
 
OK, it looks like i need to remove the cable holder from underneath the crank housing and trim it down and reinstall until the motor fits...
 
Oh i want to scream! So i trimmed the cable holder down. Not enough. trimmed some more, still not enough. trimmed some more and because i reduced the thickness, the screw that holds it was too long and protruded on the inside of the spindle housing. Ground the screw down... Twice. The motor got passed the cable holder, and past the screw on the inside but now it hits the screw head... so i'm going to take the screw out of the picture and see if some double sided carpet tape will keep the cable holder in place. Crossing my fingers else it's time for some eggnog and vodka. *sigh*

...(later)
Well, That worked. the motor is through. time for that vodka anyway... enough for today. :)
 
The other option is to just get some SIS cable housing and run it full length and up and over? As long as you keep it kink free and lightly lubed, read on here today someone used motor oil on a cable....., it should shift fine.
 
OK... i have a question. both bikes have the read derailleur integrated with the rear brake. I need to install the new brake with the motor cutoff switch. I am thinking i just need to remove the brake lever from the original combo but it may be that the pin is pressed in with a flange on each side so it doesn't come out? Should i just drill it out or is there another way? Off to look for videos...
FWIW I never bothered with brakes with motor cut off fxn (but I also never installed a throttle). The TSDZ2 cuts power when you stop pedaling and I've found it as natural as riding a regular non assist bike (or my Yamaha mid drive which also doesn't have brake actuated motor cutoff). If you are installing a throttle then the brakes with motor cutoff would be a good idea in case the throttle is accidentally actuated or malfunctions.
 
Oh i want to scream! So i trimmed the cable holder down. Not enough. trimmed some more, still not enough. trimmed some more and because i reduced the thickness, the screw that holds it was too long and protruded on the inside of the spindle housing. Ground the screw down... Twice. The motor got passed the cable holder, and past the screw on the inside but now it hits the screw head... so i'm going to take the screw out of the picture and see if some double sided carpet tape will keep the cable holder in place. Crossing my fingers else it's time for some eggnog and vodka. *sigh*

...(later)
Well, That worked. the motor is through. time for that vodka anyway... enough for today. :)
I re-routed rear brake and shifter cable from under the bottom bracket on one bike that I installed a tsdz2 on, it isn't difficult to do if necessary.
 
Next question. should i install a new chain? Is there a more rugged chain for ebikes, or just leave it and buy a spare in case it ever breaks?
There are chains rated for mid drive ebike use but I've just used standard chains without a problem so far.
 
My wife's bike is complete and she's very happy with it...

Mine however... the throttle works but there's no power when pedaling... I did not think i needed the electronic brake so i left that off and kept the original. is the ebrake integrated with the torque sensor? DO i need to install it? I think there was a reply posted here that said i only need the ebrakes if i used the throttle so i installed one but not the other. Is that the issue or is it likely something else?

Thanks.

Also.. i was going to post a videdo, but i dont see the video when using the attach file button. or am i mistaken. (getting hungry and cranky)... :)
 
OK, i have no idea why it didn't work, so i took the tape off and plugged in the extra ebrake, put the bike up on the stand and powered it up. The bike worked fine. So to prove that it WAS the ebrake, i removed it and it still worked fine! Took it outside and it worked fine when i pedaled. Don't know why it didn't work the first trial. So for now i am fine, both bikes are working as expected:

The wife's bike:
wifeBike.jpg


My Bike:
myBike.jpg



Again, thank you all for your help and patience!
 
OK, i have no idea why it didn't work, so i took the tape off and plugged in the extra ebrake, put the bike up on the stand and powered it up. The bike worked fine. So to prove that it WAS the ebrake, i removed it and it still worked fine! Took it outside and it worked fine when i pedaled. Don't know why it didn't work the first trial. So for now i am fine, both bikes are working as expected:

The wife's bike:
View attachment 108854

My Bike:
View attachment 108855


Again, thank you all for your help and patience!
Here is one I recently did that is a similar color to your bike. This saddle with these grips arrived today for a special bike.
 

Attachments

  • Centurian2.JPG
    Centurian2.JPG
    466 KB · Views: 217
  • Centurian3.JPG
    Centurian3.JPG
    397.8 KB · Views: 191
  • Centurian4.JPG
    Centurian4.JPG
    436.6 KB · Views: 199
  • Centurian5.JPG
    Centurian5.JPG
    343.2 KB · Views: 188
  • Brooks1.JPG
    Brooks1.JPG
    246.1 KB · Views: 192
  • Brooks2.JPG
    Brooks2.JPG
    240.2 KB · Views: 205
Back