ST2-S rear fender mounting bolt?

[MinnBobber]

Hi,

my rear fender popped the bolt that secures it to the rear seat stays.
I had a small bag on the rear rack, probably well under 10 kg limit but there were some poor roads/ lots of bumps.
Note: when this bolt pops, the fender touches tire and you stop in a hurry

Searching, I see a "fender to frame bridge screw" with 3 Nm torque spec.
I assume this is the part???

Clearance looks tough. Can one deflate the rear tire and gain enough clearance VS having to take off the rear wheel??

Or is there a generic nut/bolt/washer that will substitute?

Actually, I need to look closer as there is a rubber plug on top of that fastener and maybe the bolt is still there but the nut
came off???

What's your experience with this issue? Is factory stock part readily available??
Thanks

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

there a generic nut/bolt/washer that will substitute?

It's a $2 item at any Home Depot.
Remove your other fender screw and you will be able to find a similar screw/washer pair at most hardware stores. This is not a custom part, just a general hardware.

 

[MinnBobber]

Remove your other fender screw and you will be able to find a similar screw/washer pair at most hardware stores. This is not a custom part, just a general hardware.

Thanks. Are you talking about the front fender mount screw as that seems to be the only comparable one?
?? Front fender mount screw looks like a good bit of work to get it off??? It seems to me that it requires taking off the front wheel to access the screw. There is such little room to access the bolt head with wheel installed??

Do you happen to know what head it has, Torx or Hex or ?

I'm not keen on getting out the "other" piece unless it is eazy peazy as I'm recovering from a triple hernia
operation and even a wheel removal (with no bike stand) is way beyond what I should be doing.

Does anyone know what this fender bolt/washer/nut is exactly? Stainless steel or ? Star washer or ?? How big of a washer to spread the stress load but still fit in fender curves? Torx head best for it? Length looks like it would
be critical and no margin of error?

What exactly do I need to ask for at hardware store??

There is a former Stromer dealer in town. I'll likely call them to see if they still have any spare parts, like this???

I notice you said screw/washer.... no nut mentioned. Is there already an attached nut inside the fender? It's really tight in there but there may be a inner "seal", a small patch attached to fender at the hole. Does that possibly cover an attached inner nut that is perm in place?

Thanks for any help/ideas/info/specs on this.
..........................................................................................
EDIT: rode bike to former Stromer dealer and jr mechanic was there. With bike on stand, he tried to fix without removing wheel and that didn't work.

He then struggled with removing rear wheel. I told him it was Torx bolt be he insisted it was regular hex. After a few tries at removing axle, he gave up and gave me service mgrs card.

Is there a nut attached to inside of fender?
Can bolt be replaced without removing rear wheel?
Thanks

 

[Insider]

I looked at the fender kit for my ST5. All hex or Philips. The bike however, mostly torx.

Always use the right tools for the job to avoid taking the scenic route. Just look at how much time you've already spent agonising over it.

FYI the freehub on the ST5 is not secured to the motor. So as soon as the wheel is pulled free, the freehub pops off along with the cassette... (The pawls can fly off). The dealer mechanic told me he mangled some hub spring putting the wheel back on and had to pull one from a new hub kit.

Glad I paid the $50 to have it done.

You may be able to use an ballend Allen key to reach the bolt / nut, but bolts are hard to align from an angle. (Loose it / cross thread)

Good luck!