Shimano Di2 xtr adjustment

[Petropoliskhan]

Hello all,
I've been looking for adjustment instructions for the cassette/ derailleur alignment of the XTR DI2 on my ST5.
Does anyone know where I can find this?



Thank you

 

[owelt]

Hello, its quite easy, just press the button and hold it until it blinks red. you can then use the shifter to make micro adjustments up or down. to get out of the adjustment mode just press and hold again.

 

[Petropoliskhan]

Hello, its quite easy, just press the button and hold it until it blinks red. you can then use the shifter to make micro adjustments up or down. to get out of the adjustment mode just press and hold again.

Ok, thank you Owelt. I'll try.

 

[Petropoliskhan]

Ok , i've tried and understand. The micro adjustment buttons work. Apart from obvious grinding noises, how does one know if it is precisely done right. +- 1 or 2 clicks/ notches is very subtle and not easily visible or heard when the bike is on the repair stand or when riding because of wind noise and posture. Also when I manually spin the cranks to observe listen (closeup) it is hard to differentiate between misalignment and normal chain over sprocket noise.
Any tips? Recommendations?
Thanks

 

[owelt]

hey, sure thing, i feel you. To get the perfect alignment, first step is to make it work somehow (you did that)
Put the bike on the repair stand, shift into the middle gear, 5 or 6 sprocket, pedal with one hand and slowly make micro adjustments in one direction until the derailleur shifts into the next gear (wrong gear) and count the clicks it took from your original position. lets say from your original position it took 20 clicks until the gear jumped into the wrong gear. (That is the limit on one side.) now micro adjust exactly the same amout of clicks (20) to shift back to where you started. Repeat in the other direction. now lets say it took you 16 clicks until it shifted a gear again. that means you are not exactly in the center of your 2 gears. you need to micro shift 2 times in the direction you had 20 clicks from your original position. (that way when you repeat the process, it will take you 18 mircroshifts to misshift up and 18 to misshift down. that way you know you are EXACTLY in the center.

Make sure your B-scew is set correctly. after you did that it should shift crisp af, if there is problems in your lowest 2 gears its the lower limit screw, and with the highers gear, its the upper limit screw.

The only way to find the center is to find the point where it shifts up and down. Nobody is perfect by eye. It is hard to explain but the principle is simple. With normal derailleurs you would use quarter turns to find that point.
I will make a youtube video one day to explain the shifting, not much good stuff out there. Most just tell you to look down the derailleur and set it centered. I have a good eye, and it looks all good to me. This method is the best out there.

 

[Petropoliskhan]

hey, sure thing, i feel you. To get the perfect alignment, first step is to make it work somehow (you did that)
Put the bike on the repair stand, shift into the middle gear, 5 or 6 sprocket, pedal with one hand and slowly make micro adjustments in one direction until the derailleur shifts into the next gear (wrong gear) and count the clicks it took from your original position. lets say from your original position it took 20 clicks until the gear jumped into the wrong gear. (That is the limit on one side.) now micro adjust exactly the same amout of clicks (20) to shift back to where you started. Repeat in the other direction. now lets say it took you 16 clicks until it shifted a gear again. that means you are not exactly in the center of your 2 gears. you need to micro shift 2 times in the direction you had 20 clicks from your original position. (that way when you repeat the process, it will take you 18 mircroshifts to misshift up and 18 to misshift down. that way you know you are EXACTLY in the center.

Make sure your B-scew is set correctly. after you did that it should shift crisp af, if there is problems in your lowest 2 gears its the lower limit screw, and with the highers gear, its the upper limit screw.

The only way to find the center is to find the point where it shifts up and down. Nobody is perfect by eye. It is hard to explain but the principle is simple. With normal derailleurs you would use quarter turns to find that point.
I will make a youtube video one day to explain the shifting, not much good stuff out there. Most just tell you to look down the derailleur and set it centered. I have a good eye, and it looks all good to me. This method is the best out there.

Wow ! Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. Makes perfect sense!
Will try tomorrow. Could you perhaps show me a picture of the B screw and the upper and lower limit screws ? (If it isn’t too much of an imposition)
I will look forward to seeing your video on YT. Btw : what is the name of your YT channel .

Again . Many Thanks

 

[owelt]

If you use the original cassette and never adjusted the screws, they should be perfectly fine, better not touch them, unless its still not perfect after finding the center. I never had to touch these screws on my st5. The B-Screw is for adjusting the derailleur for the Size of the cassette, the limit screws center the lowest and highest gear respectively, to make sure the chain cant jump over the largest cog or into the frame. The bottom screw is for adjusting in the largest cog.

My youtube channel is this one: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_TwvQEz8jhUxbhKBv7x87w
I dont put alot of effort in my videos, but there are some interesting ramblings about the stromer st5 which can be interesting to watch as an owner. I modified the crap out of my st5, made the brakes silent even in the rain, etc.

 

[Petropoliskhan]

Hey Owelt/insight show, I thought it was you!
I've seen all of your videos, watched them multiple times, before buying my ST5. You may remember we even communicated. My name is Alex de Jonge!
I've hot waxed my chain (love the clean look and whisper quiet drivetrain), changed the brake pads: shimano ds3 resin pads (you were right , they are sooo much quieter).
The deal for the suspension fork I was looking at fell through sad day for me. although I think I can happily live without it. I also added front fender mudgard extensions upper front and lower back of the wheel.
So I just did what you suggested and I think I got it right. I didn't touch the screws.
Many thanks again!

 

[owelt]

Small world hahaha Yes i remember, so cool. Glad i could help out. Really cool that you got the fender extensions. Its raining alot these days and i really wish i also got them myself. Probably going to do that now, thanks for the inspiration.

Too bad the suspension deal did not work out. On the bright side, most suspension work is done by the huge tires anyways.

Do you have instagram? would be cool to stay in touch. https://www.instagram.com/epic_crosscountry/

 

[Petropoliskhan]

Small world hahaha Yes i remember, so cool. Glad i could help out. Really cool that you got the fender extensions. Its raining alot these days and i really wish i also got them myself. Probably going to do that now, thanks for the inspiration.

Too bad the suspension deal did not work out. On the bright side, most suspension work is done by the huge tires anyways.

Do you have instagram? would be cool to stay in touch. https://www.instagram.com/epic_crosscountry/

Yes I do! here it is https://www.instagram.com/petropoliskhan/
Happy to share more experiences, tips and adventures