Roadster V2 questions & a few comments

[Mathteacher]

All, thanks for the great discussion and info. Just bought a used Roadster V2 (400 miles on it), just put another 100 on in 3 days and really enjoy it. A few questions:
Q1. Does anyone ever lose motor assist when hitting a bump at speed? The display still appears to work, but no motor assist. It has happened twice now. I turn off then back on and all functions fine.
Q2. For those that have removed the rear wheel, was putting it back on a MAJOR pain? I am a fairly competent bike mechanic, but lining up those torque tabs and keeping all of the washers spaced so that I could slide the wheel on took me probably 10 minutes. Any videos, tricks or tips out there? I assume everyone simply loosens the rear brake cable to get tire clearance.
Q3. Is there any maintenance needed on the rear motor or hub? My urge is to go in there and grease the heck out of whatever bearings exist, but I also don’t want to screw things up. Maybe grease the gears too. I destroy hubs regularly mtbing (well, not since going DT Swiss 350) and want to keep these alive.

If anyone cares, I really enjoy the bike. The past few years I’ve averaged over 300 hours a year mountain biking in the woods, plus very little road time here and there. For some reason I find it a joy to ride on this roadster on the road, the quietness and light handling feels good, and I love standing and jamming up small hills. Great bike for somebody who wants a fair amount of exercise, has short rides, or rides in flat places. Rose back to back with a Spec Vado … the Vado is awesome, but not as natural for mixing pedaling in.

The bike itself is very rigid and almost punishing. It makes my carbon trek Domane feel like a Cadillac! I had some old 1 inch carbon bars laying around, so I swapped them out and do enjoy the slightly wider bars with some cushier grips.

I did have to true my front wheel, it wasn’t horrible, but I do love my spoke tension tool and enjoy a well-balanced wheel. My front hub had virtually no grease in it, I opened that and greased the snot out of it.

Brakes are fine, no need for disc brakes.

I am 5’10”, wear 31 pants, and find the standover of the large a bit too tall (why no sloping top tube, for looks or for battery?), but the reach is very short. So riding the bike fits fine, the tall standover could be tricky for an inexperienced rider.

I worry about the no-name bottom bracket and free hub as I’m really laying into it, but they seem ok so far.

Appreciate any feedback on the 3 questions. Peace!

 

[fendee1]

Q1, no, Q2 the pain, I love disabling my fixed gear every weekend, but the Roadster is a beast, lining up the bolts openingthe frame it is difficult. Q 3, after 5000 miles and in some dirt paths and street pot holes, it still seems to be fine, still don't know the longevity but still rides smooth. Probably the first thing to go is the rear wheel , wish I could find the supplier in China just to but the rear tire.

 

[PSm]

All, thanks for the great discussion and info. Just bought a used Roadster V2 (400 miles on it), just put another 100 on in 3 days and really enjoy it. A few questions:
Q1. Does anyone ever lose motor assist when hitting a bump at speed? The display still appears to work, but no motor assist. It has happened twice now. I turn off then back on and all functions fine.
Q2. For those that have removed the rear wheel, was putting it back on a MAJOR pain? I am a fairly competent bike mechanic, but lining up those torque tabs and keeping all of the washers spaced so that I could slide the wheel on took me probably 10 minutes. Any videos, tricks or tips out there? I assume everyone simply loosens the rear brake cable to get tire clearance.
Q3. Is there any maintenance needed on the rear motor or hub? My urge is to go in there and grease the heck out of whatever bearings exist, but I also don’t want to screw things up. Maybe grease the gears too. I destroy hubs regularly mtbing (well, not since going DT Swiss 350) and want to keep these alive.

If anyone cares, I really enjoy the bike. The past few years I’ve averaged over 300 hours a year mountain biking in the woods, plus very little road time here and there. For some reason I find it a joy to ride on this roadster on the road, the quietness and light handling feels good, and I love standing and jamming up small hills. Great bike for somebody who wants a fair amount of exercise, has short rides, or rides in flat places. Rose back to back with a Spec Vado … the Vado is awesome, but not as natural for mixing pedaling in.

The bike itself is very rigid and almost punishing. It makes my carbon trek Domane feel like a Cadillac! I had some old 1 inch carbon bars laying around, so I swapped them out and do enjoy the slightly wider bars with some cushier grips.

I did have to true my front wheel, it wasn’t horrible, but I do love my spoke tension tool and enjoy a well-balanced wheel. My front hub had virtually no grease in it, I opened that and greased the snot out of it.

Brakes are fine, no need for disc brakes.

I am 5’10”, wear 31 pants, and find the standover of the large a bit too tall (why no sloping top tube, for looks or for battery?), but the reach is very short. So riding the bike fits fine, the tall standover could be tricky for an inexperienced rider.

I worry about the no-name bottom bracket and free hub as I’m really laying into it, but they seem ok so far.

Appreciate any feedback on the 3 questions. Peace!

Q1: I had a problem once with the up/down button sticking, and assist not responding, but after applying a little lubricant in the edges, never had the problem again. With other ebikes, I had a loose connector, so I'd try disconnecting and reconnecting all electrical connectors
Q2: Have had a few rear flats, including during a century ride, so after learning the first few times it's relatively quick for me. I cut the wire harness zip tie and disconnect, then loosen the nuts, remove the belt tension screws, push wheel forward, slip the belt off rotating the crank, flip the brake lever, then take the wheel off. The first time, I took close up pictures of each area before starting. I like using Continental Grand Prix 5000 30mm tires, since they'll fit on while fully inflated
Q3: After more than 4500 miles, I've never had to grease the front or rear hubs, and especially not the gear (since it's not like a cassette and chain?). Only silicone spray the belt once in a while. Maybe I'm due for bearing regreasing? Still rotates smoothly and quietly though.

Comfortwise, a suspension seat post is a MUST for me, and made a huge difference. And changing to bullhorn handlebar ends that have some flexibility. No issue with a rough ride for me, but no, it's nothing like a full suspension MTB. I do jump/lift up the bike, whenever possible, when I see major bumps, pot holes, etc ahead of time.

Regarding no name bottom bracket and hub, I haven't has any issues, and I really hammer the bike. Major hill climbing, sprinting, rapid acceleration, and some (unofficial) KOM times on mountain climbs. Sprints up to 30 mph on the flats sometimes, going 120 rpm. 10-15 degree grades, pushing with all my possible force. Wait, I did have some creaking noises from the rear hub early on, but just tightened a little bit. No issues after that, and ridden 4000 miles since. Have had to replace some rear spokes, after some full assist, full effort speed run mountain climbs.

(In case you haven't seen it, I've posted my longterm experience with my Roadster and extended battery, in another thread)

Enjoy!