RIP m@Robertson - Tale of Two WHeels
- Thread starter Aushiker
- Start date
Mike TowpathTraveler
Well-Known Member
My gosh...... stumbling upon this sad news is truly like a hard gut punch. Being a fellow e-fat biker as Matt was, I enjoyed every post, every picture he put up for us. As others here have said, Matt imparted alot of wisdom and was certainly a calming influence for everyone to consider and follow. We here are a whole lot poorer for him no longer being with us.
Dani, please know that your Dad and his presence here sure meant much to us readers. Though we all may never meet, this still remains a family. Belated, but sincere condolences in the loss of your Dad and may your days be filled with nothing but warm memories of him.
Mike
Dani, please know that your Dad and his presence here sure meant much to us readers. Though we all may never meet, this still remains a family. Belated, but sincere condolences in the loss of your Dad and may your days be filled with nothing but warm memories of him.
Mike
Art Deco
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Selinsgrove Pennsylvania
Thank you. He is already greatly missed here, in my opinion.
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
Yes, he is missed, it's to bad that all his information can't be accessed now,
tried several times to get access and no replies back from from Dani or those in change. Thanks Matt, RIP.
tried several times to get access and no replies back from from Dani or those in change. Thanks Matt, RIP.
Nvreloader
Western Nevada
- Region
- USA
PC
I don't know anything about this type of stuff......???
I don't know anything about this type of stuff......???
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I don’t either.
This is just what the link sent me to.
It's not like he wouldn't want us to see what he posted.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I've still got a bunch of PMs from @m@Robertson ,..
Here's a copy and paste of a good one,..
Merciless (on the inside)
Jul 22, 2024
PCeBiker said:
What are the considerations when choosing the grease?
I've seen white lithium used and corn head grease.
I have never seen corn head grease used on anything but an Ultra. I have been tempted to try it but its WAY too much of a niche thing only a couple of people will admit to having tried. For hub motors, white lithium is what the factory uses. I have found on a G060 fat motor like yours (which I have been re-greasing since like 2015 every 3000 miles) either needs to be re-done more frequently with white lithium grease, which is pretty thin stuff, or you can carefully use some red Mobil28, which I went to a few years ago as an experiment and it has worked out. The Mobil28 is the same stuff I use on my mid drives. I use it kind of sparingly and it makes the motor noticeably quieter. It also lasts a little longer. Don't overdo it because excess does fly off and clump.
Literally just yesterday as part of a general overhaul of one of my bikes, I pulled one of my motors apart and checked its grease after 19 months, lots of rainstorms and about 2100 miles. It was absolutely fine. As a bit of an experiment I put a thin coat of grease on the entire motor casing as well as the exterior of the stator. It all looked pretty perfect. Grease used was Mobil28. I did pick up all of the grease that had clumped in between the planetary gears and put it back on the gear teeth, but there wasn't a lot of it and none of the gears were dry.
PCeBiker said:
Maybe CV axle grease?
It's like whipped cream.
I would not experiment. Even Mobil28 on a hub motor is an experiment and I would only even mention I am using it because I have tested it for a few years now and nothing bad has happened, and the motor has seemed to benefit from it a little..
PCeBiker said:
Would it be a good idea to regrease my motor, or is it maybe better to just leave well enough alone?
I have been regularly re-greasing G060's for years. They need it. You will find the white lithium grease seems to just evaporate inside, leaving the gears moist so no damage, but a year after you give it fresh grease, you will open it up again and wonder wtf where did it all go.
PCeBiker said:
I use my motor (BAFANG G06) gently and turned my controller down to 16 amps.
Does that make any difference?
Nope. Its the mileage that matters. And whether water gets inside. It can come in thru the axle hole for the cable. I opened up a motor once and it was all rust inside. Thats part of why I treated my inner casing and stator with a thin layer of grease. Just in case. But luckily no water ever got into this motor I just worked on.
PCeBiker said:
Is there anything you can tell me about my motor?
I don't know much about it.
You can read that code just like you can read a car's VIN. You just have to know what it all stands for.
RM is Rear Motor. G060.500 means its a 500w version of the G060. I think D designates either freewheel or cassette. I forget what means which. And the 10 means the number of turns of copper wire on the motor. You can use that number to figure out whether your motor was manufactured as higher torque but low speed, or vice versa. My 20" motors have different turn counts than my 26" motors.
The rest is just a product serial and production batch number.
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"It can come in thru the axle hole for the cable. I opened up a motor once and it was all rust inside."
After learning about how water is conveniently channeled along the motor cable and fed directly into the hub motor, I sealed up the wiring with silicone where it enters the axle,..
It seems to have worked, because it was rust free inside the motor when I opened it up to grease the gears.
When I put it back together, I squirted some airplane grease into the axle hole first, then some silicone in the hole, then some silicone in the little hub cap and stuck it on.
I made sure to not clean the cap first so I can remove it again without using my angle grinder or a bolt cutter.
Here's a copy and paste of a good one,..
Merciless (on the inside)
Jul 22, 2024
PCeBiker said:
What are the considerations when choosing the grease?
I've seen white lithium used and corn head grease.
I have never seen corn head grease used on anything but an Ultra. I have been tempted to try it but its WAY too much of a niche thing only a couple of people will admit to having tried. For hub motors, white lithium is what the factory uses. I have found on a G060 fat motor like yours (which I have been re-greasing since like 2015 every 3000 miles) either needs to be re-done more frequently with white lithium grease, which is pretty thin stuff, or you can carefully use some red Mobil28, which I went to a few years ago as an experiment and it has worked out. The Mobil28 is the same stuff I use on my mid drives. I use it kind of sparingly and it makes the motor noticeably quieter. It also lasts a little longer. Don't overdo it because excess does fly off and clump.
Literally just yesterday as part of a general overhaul of one of my bikes, I pulled one of my motors apart and checked its grease after 19 months, lots of rainstorms and about 2100 miles. It was absolutely fine. As a bit of an experiment I put a thin coat of grease on the entire motor casing as well as the exterior of the stator. It all looked pretty perfect. Grease used was Mobil28. I did pick up all of the grease that had clumped in between the planetary gears and put it back on the gear teeth, but there wasn't a lot of it and none of the gears were dry.
PCeBiker said:
Maybe CV axle grease?
It's like whipped cream.
I would not experiment. Even Mobil28 on a hub motor is an experiment and I would only even mention I am using it because I have tested it for a few years now and nothing bad has happened, and the motor has seemed to benefit from it a little..
PCeBiker said:
Would it be a good idea to regrease my motor, or is it maybe better to just leave well enough alone?
I have been regularly re-greasing G060's for years. They need it. You will find the white lithium grease seems to just evaporate inside, leaving the gears moist so no damage, but a year after you give it fresh grease, you will open it up again and wonder wtf where did it all go.
PCeBiker said:
I use my motor (BAFANG G06) gently and turned my controller down to 16 amps.
Does that make any difference?
Nope. Its the mileage that matters. And whether water gets inside. It can come in thru the axle hole for the cable. I opened up a motor once and it was all rust inside. Thats part of why I treated my inner casing and stator with a thin layer of grease. Just in case. But luckily no water ever got into this motor I just worked on.
PCeBiker said:
Is there anything you can tell me about my motor?
I don't know much about it.
You can read that code just like you can read a car's VIN. You just have to know what it all stands for.
RM is Rear Motor. G060.500 means its a 500w version of the G060. I think D designates either freewheel or cassette. I forget what means which. And the 10 means the number of turns of copper wire on the motor. You can use that number to figure out whether your motor was manufactured as higher torque but low speed, or vice versa. My 20" motors have different turn counts than my 26" motors.
The rest is just a product serial and production batch number.
Like Like ReplyReport
Like Reactions:You
"It can come in thru the axle hole for the cable. I opened up a motor once and it was all rust inside."
After learning about how water is conveniently channeled along the motor cable and fed directly into the hub motor, I sealed up the wiring with silicone where it enters the axle,..
It seems to have worked, because it was rust free inside the motor when I opened it up to grease the gears.
When I put it back together, I squirted some airplane grease into the axle hole first, then some silicone in the hole, then some silicone in the little hub cap and stuck it on.
I made sure to not clean the cap first so I can remove it again without using my angle grinder or a bolt cutter.
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Dave Rocks
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- Region
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- MISSISSAUGA
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PCeBiker
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