These Bafang motors have a reputation for being tough, if a bit noisy. I think you could reasonably expect several thousand miles on one, based on what I've read around this forum.thanks for the detailed report... How long does Juiced expect teh geared hub motor to last before the gears need replacing?
My motor sounds and performs the same as it did from day one. I haven't noticed anything that would lead me to believe it won't last for at least 20,000 miles.
I do some things out of habit to promote longevity. I am changing both gears and assist levels to maximize efficiency. From a start I use Eco mode most often, level 1 on occasion, and generally start out in 3rd gear, but will go lower if I am starting on a hill. I then pedal up through the gears as I accelerate and titrate up the assist level as needed to achieve higher speed. On flat ground this is generally Eco to ~18 mph, level 1 to ~ 22, level 2 to ~26, then level 3 for cruising speed at ~30 mph. This is clearly a more efficient way to use energy from the battery and I want to be in the habit, and it also minimizes heavy loading of the motor.
I almost never start out in high assist levels (if I do its because I forgot to drop it while stopping), and never use the throttle; the only reason I have left the throttle on the bike is for my son when he rides the bike.
The torque sensor needs some time to calibrate before putting any pressure on the pedals. Not much, but some.One annoying thing is if I power up the battery and controller after I am on the bike and pedaling, I must stop pedaling for a few seconds before the bike will provide assist.
Yes I did use the stock Kenda tires. I am actually quite pleased with the performance of these tires overall. Traction is great while cornering at speed. I used 21mm rim tape. Here's the kit I used; https://www.amazon.com/VeloFuze-Cyc...2920744&sr=8-13&keywords=tubeless+sealant+kitHey @Chris Hammond, did you go tubeless with the original Kenda tires? I've loved my tubeless setup on my mountain bike and am thinking it'd be a good approach for the e-bike. What size tape did you use for the rims?
Thanks as always for the detailed reports!
Astonishingly, Schwalbe instructs, that to monitor that there remains an adequate liquid amount of sealant in the tire (sealant tends to dry or coagulate over months), intentionally puncture the tire! I can't bring myself to do it! I'll just take out the valve core at 6PM some day and run in a sounding stick. Although I SHOULD just stick a small nail in the tire! (grins)Yes I did use the stock Kenda tires. I am actually quite pleased with the performance of these tires overall. Traction is great while cornering at speed. I used 21mm rim tape. Here's the kit I used; https://www.amazon.com/VeloFuze-Cyc...2920744&sr=8-13&keywords=tubeless+sealant+kit
There are a few tricks for sure to make the conversion work. @Reid did a great write up a while back with some helpful hints.
First one is the stock tires have rubber nibs on the bead area that must be cut off flush to allow the bead to seat. Second hint is to apply some sealant to the bead area of the tire before trying to seat it. Third, I had to remove the valve core in order to inflate quickly enough to get the bead to seat. Forth, I then had leaking around the valve stem; needed to dip the bottom of the stem in sealant to get it to seal.
I did the rear tire first and it took way to long with a lot of swearing involved. The learning there made the front go very quick and smoothly.
I am very happy with the conversion. Zero flats since I owned it.
Yeah I totally agree. I'm a nurse, and I watched a video a while back of a guy using an 18 gauge needle and 20 cc syringe to inject more sealant into his tire. While I am sure this would work out fine, taking out the valve core and injecting it there seems far more appealing to me.Astonishingly, Schwalbe instructs, that to monitor that there remains an adequate liquid amount of sealant in the tire (sealant tends to dry or coagulate over months), intentionally puncture the tire! I can't bring myself to do it! I'll just take out the valve core at 6PM some day and run in a sounding stick. Although I SHOULD just stick a small nail in the tire! (grins)
https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tubeless
By using a needle you can easily test, whether the sealing liquid is still functioning. Simply pierce the running surface and let the tire rotate. Refill sealing liquid if the hole does not seal immediately. The “test hole” is repaired with the new sealing liquid.
Hi, public hero RN! My late brother was an RN.Yeah I totally agree. I'm a nurse, and I watched a video a while back of a guy using an 18 gauge needle and 20 cc syringe to inject more sealant into his tire. While I am sure this would work out fine, taking out the valve core and injecting it there seems far more appealing to me.
Yes I did use the stock Kenda tires. I am actually quite pleased with the performance of these tires overall. Traction is great while cornering at speed. I used 21mm rim tape. Here's the kit I used; https://www.amazon.com/VeloFuze-Cyc...2920744&sr=8-13&keywords=tubeless+sealant+kit
There are a few tricks for sure to make the conversion work. @Reid did a great write up a while back with some helpful hints.
First one is the stock tires have rubber nibs on the bead area that must be cut off flush to allow the bead to seat. Second hint is to apply some sealant to the bead area of the tire before trying to seat it. Third, I had to remove the valve core in order to inflate quickly enough to get the bead to seat. Forth, I then had leaking around the valve stem; needed to dip the bottom of the stem in sealant to get it to seal.
I did the rear tire first and it took way to long with a lot of swearing involved. The learning there made the front go very quick and smoothly.
I am very happy with the conversion. Zero flats since I owned it.
Those Conti's look good. At the rate you burn up the miles, you'll be rocking a set before my Marathons need replacing, and we'll have had your review by then.Also, FWIW, I have read some mixed reviews on the Marathons, esp related to wet traction. I am planning on these Continentals as my replacements when the time comes. I plan on using the 700/ 47mm width. They have the same puncture resistant layer, Class 3 ebike rated, and are at least 25% less money depending on where you buy them.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
I'm over 10k on a replacement wheel received 3/30/17 which was then rebuilt this April with a new rim/spokes. Hoping I can get at least another year out of it because the rebuild cost $250. The freehub is worn a bit evident from the brown crap flowing out after spraying WD40 in it, but it's still works.
The original wheel lasted 10 months/ 6k miles before what sounded like internal gear issues.
Does anyone have an aftermarket source for a new motor?