Rear disc conversion: size?

Spaghetti888

New Member
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United Kingdom
Hi,
I'm thinking about swapping my rear v-brakes for a disc. I already have 180mm hydraulic disc up front but I don't think I can go above 140mm at the rear - do you think this will be sufficient? It's a 500W hub and I use it with hybrid road tyres on paved surfaces if that helps.
Thanks in advance,
Ed
 
Not my area of expertise, but someone will jump in. I believe hydraulic discs beat any other brakes
 
Hi,
I'm thinking about swapping my rear v-brakes for a disc. I already have 180mm hydraulic disc up front but I don't think I can go above 140mm at the rear - do you think this will be sufficient? It's a 500W hub and I use it with hybrid road tyres on paved surfaces if that helps.
Thanks in advance,
Ed
Does the frame have bosses to attach the caliper? You say you have a hub motor, is it on the rear wheel? If so did it come equipped with rotor mounts?
 
Does the frame have bosses to attach the caliper? You say you have a hub motor, is it on the rear wheel? If so did it come equipped with rotor mounts?
Yes, rear hub but no mount - I intend to have one made up.
 
Yes, rear hub but no mount - I intend to have one made up.
If you like your bike and it is setup for rim brakes and need better brakes, consider hydraulic rim brakes with high speed, dual compound shoes.

 
I have tektro cable pull brakes with 140 mm rotors on a cargo bike that I load up to 330 lb gross. (94 bike + tools, 160 lb me, 80lb supplies). It will stop quite competently on up to 15% grades. I can throw myself off the seat if I want to stop that fast. Stopping power does not deteriorate nearly as much in the rain as rim brakes do. I estimate rim brakes lose 75% of their stopping decceleration in the rain.
180 mm or 220 mm rotors may be just the thing for 250 lb riders that decend 2000 ' in an hour in a race. Not required for 160 lb me that decends 80 hills of 20' to 100 ' in 3 1/2 hours.
I have 5" long brake handles that came with the hub motor kit, which require less force than the 3.5" handles tektro equipped the bike with. I think the 3.5" handles are a sales promotion for hydraulic brakes, as tektro also sells those. The same way the big 3 changed drum brakes from 11" to 10" in 1960 to force buyers to pay for power brakes. Same way the big 3 cheapened the streering boxes from 1959 to 1962 to cause much more force to be required for manual steering, to force buyers to buy power steering. BTW I adjust my front brake every 1000 miles, or twice a year. It takes 2 minutes, most of that digging out the wrench and putting it away.
I find the passion for hydraulic brakes to be the same sort of mania as the passion for the number of engine valves or the word turbo, of the late eighties.
 
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If you like your bike and it is setup for rim brakes and need better brakes, consider hydraulic rim brakes with high speed, dual compound shoes.

Yeah, I like the frame and I've spent time building it to the way I like. I also like tinkering so it's more because I want to see what can be done to improve it rather than buy more crap. The hydraulic rims are interesting but I'm more interesting in not having to use rims for quite a few reasons - wet weather being one. Me wanting to design and have a part built is another, but that's personal. I'll certainly look into it in more detail.

I have tektro cable pull brakes with 140 mm rotors on a cargo bike that I load up to 330 lb gross. (94 bike + tools, 160 lb me, 80lb supplies). It will stop quite competently on up to 15% grades. I can throw myself off the seat if I want to stop that fast. Stopping power does not deteriorate nearly as much in the rain as rim brakes do. I estimate rim brakes lose 75% of their stopping decceleration in the rain.
180 mm or 220 mm rotors may be just the thing for 250 lb riders that decend 2000 ' in an hour in a race. Not required for 160 lb me that decends 80 hills of 20' to 100 ' in 3 1/2 hours.
I have 5" long brake handles that came with the hub motor kit, which require less force than the 3.5" handles tektro equipped the bike with. I think the 3.5" handles are a sales promotion for hydraulic brakes, as tektro also sells those. The same way the big 3 changed drum brakes from 11" to 10" in 1960 to force buyers to pay for power brakes. Same way the big 3 cheapened the streering boxes from 1959 to 1962 to cause much more force to be required for manual steering, to force buyers to buy power steering. BTW I adjust my front brake every 1000 miles, or twice a year. It takes 2 minutes, most of that digging out the wrench and putting it away.
I find the passion for hydraulic brakes to be the same sort of mania as the passion for the number of engine valves or the word turbo, of the late eighties.
So you run 140mm too - interesting. I do long city commutes so for me it's fast flat surfaces with the braking for errant pedestrians and traffic lights but with the added weight of an electric motor/hub and wet British weather thrown in.

I asked about 140mm disc only asked because the shape of the forks seems to indicate that 160mm would foul bottom of the frame. I have a cardboard mockup which I made from photoshopping and printing a 140mm disc. It's not very accurate as I can't tell if the card is dead straight or not. I'm going to 3D print just a segment of 160mm using correct thickness and see if it will fit....
 

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In the city where you don't have to dissipate massive heat like in downhill riding, I can't see why a decent hydraulic 140mm setup wouldn't do just fine. If you can find a 4 piston caliper for that size disc, you would be fine for sure. The 160-180 discs provide a bit more leverage, so that is quite useful in mechanical cable systems, but quality hydraulic brakes are still going to trump mechanical brakes even a size or two bigger.
 
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