RAISE HANDLEBARS ON SUPERCHARGER
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JVBulman
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Did you also loosen the four faceplate bolts that hold the handlebar?
I'm having the same issues with my Supercharger
All what bolts ? There's 2 types of Bike stems or steering tubes . Quill and thread less. If you are referring the stem that holds the handle bars being adjustable up or down You most likely have to loosen the bolts more . I assume it's one or 2 side bolts ?? If you are speaking of a standard stem . What's your manual say?? It's more then likely the bolts of which there appear to be 2 of. One on each side . Need to be loosened until the thing moves . It also appears to be a Quill stem . SO you'd need to loosen that center bolt . The one that appears to have a small rubber cover over it . Once you do that the stem should raise or lower . Loosen it all the way .
I mean no offense : But doing what you are asking is one of the more basic adjustments on any bike there is . Sounds like you are un-familiar how these 2 different stems work . Find a U tube video for Quill and then Threadless / Based on pictures the company has online . It appears to be a Quill . If you are thinking you can raise it then it must be . Because threadless ones can't be raised in themselves
That center bolt has to be loosen so the stem can be moved with no force at all . Plus there is usually a line indicated the most you should raise it .
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Why would you loosen the faceplate bolts ? Not following that idea . It appears to be a Quill steering tube stem. He should be able to loosen that middle bolt until it literally would fall out if he turned the bike upside down . Has nothing to do with handlebar adjustments
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Zeeker: It is not very smart to make general comments on e-bikes you are not familiar with. Riese & Muller e-bikes come with a lot of unusual parts and solutions. That's why people like @JVBulman who specialize in R&M are competent here.
There is no manual specific to the Supercharger.
I received the below instructions from the service manager at the Riese & Muller dealer that I purchased my bike from.
The process is essentially this:
#1 First, make sure there is enough slack in all of the cables and wiring so that once the stem is lifted, there are no stretched or pinched cables. You may have to cut a couple zip ties to complete this step.
#2 Loosen the 2 large bolts on the side of the stem (these run laterally from left to right, if you are sitting on the bike and looking down at the stem). These don't need to be removed all the way, but some people might prefer to remove them all the way just so that there is as little friction as possible when going to move the stem.
#3 This is part that isn't so intuitive--you need to loosen the 4 stem clamp bolts. These are either T20 or T25 head bolts. These do not need to be removed all the way--in fact I would recommend against it as it is hard to handle. Once you have these fairly loose, the stem should easily move up into your desired position.
I didn't have success with this procedure, although in step #2 I did not remove the large bolts all the way. My next attempt will be removing the 2 large side bolts all the way.
I received the below instructions from the service manager at the Riese & Muller dealer that I purchased my bike from.
The process is essentially this:
#1 First, make sure there is enough slack in all of the cables and wiring so that once the stem is lifted, there are no stretched or pinched cables. You may have to cut a couple zip ties to complete this step.
#2 Loosen the 2 large bolts on the side of the stem (these run laterally from left to right, if you are sitting on the bike and looking down at the stem). These don't need to be removed all the way, but some people might prefer to remove them all the way just so that there is as little friction as possible when going to move the stem.
#3 This is part that isn't so intuitive--you need to loosen the 4 stem clamp bolts. These are either T20 or T25 head bolts. These do not need to be removed all the way--in fact I would recommend against it as it is hard to handle. Once you have these fairly loose, the stem should easily move up into your desired position.
I didn't have success with this procedure, although in step #2 I did not remove the large bolts all the way. My next attempt will be removing the 2 large side bolts all the way.
Handlebar adjustments on Nevo 3
Hi. I'm new to the forum and to e-biking. Have had my new Nevo 3 for a few weeks and I love it. I've ridden quite a bit, even though it's pretty nippy in Upstate NY. I have a couple of questions and hoping someone can help me out. 1. I find the published R&M manuals lacking in detail. Can...
electricbikereview.com
Curious as to why it didn't work . While I don't own the bike . Mechanics are what they are . I would assume the 4 Torx heads need to be loosened almost to out. The reason he doesn't suggest full removal , they are hard to line up . As they hold that whole stem and riser in place . With that set up you most likely have to juggle it a little and find the balance point to lift the stem up . Then tight the bolts in step 2 just enough to hold it in place . Tighten the Torx screws to torque first . Then go back and torque down step 2 bolts . The bottom one first.The above thread shows the same handlebar stem arrangement that I have on my SuperchargerHandlebar adjustments on Nevo 3
Hi. I'm new to the forum and to e-biking. Have had my new Nevo 3 for a few weeks and I love it. I've ridden quite a bit, even though it's pretty nippy in Upstate NY. I have a couple of questions and hoping someone can help me out. 1. I find the published R&M manuals lacking in detail. Can...
While I don't own this bike . I am replying based on and understanding of how engineering works . In all practical fairness you'd think the company would have something the Customer is obviously going to at least have a curiosity about messing with, in their manuals . They must not want you to.
I'm guess as long as your cables have the slack and wiring is out of the way . You most likely have to jockey it around with some light force to find the spot where it works .
I'm surprised the person you spoke to didn't tell you to reverse steps 2 and 3 when re-installing . Probably assumes you know that . Maybe you do. want to make sure you see this : In the thread you posted : They are totally confusing handlebar bolts with 4 stem clamp bolts . Are you doing the same thing ? The stem clamp bolt are what holds the whole unit on the steering tube . Handlebar bolts don't have a thing to do with adjusting that riser up or down. The handle bars may need to be adjusted once you adjust your stem riser. But they are a different process then what was explained to you by the company .
Yeah I know . But nobody seems to be answering the guy . After looking at actual pictures in the other thread, where you can see the set up . It's rather obvious how it's set up. My previous answer was going off a website drawing that didn't show much at all . Also when I read the thread he posted . Those guys there are confusing stem bolts with handlebar bolts . The manual that was posted there isn't what the guy from R&M told our OP .
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JVBulman
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Once all the bolts are loose, you often need to grab the bars and give them a firm jerk/twist to free it all up. You don't need to remove the bolts entirely.
Thanks, I'll remember to do that
Neil Hawkins
Member
Yep, that's my experience.
I was finally able to make an adjustment to add some height to my handlebars using the instructions attached.
This was my second attempt using these instructions. I loosened bolts A, B, C, D. At my first attempt I neglected to loosen bolts C and D because they appeared to me to be merely handlebar clamping bolts .
This time I loosened the handlebar clamping bolts C and D. There is a small T10 bolt in front of the head tube that I also loosened. I don't know the function of it but I thought it would release the cables
that are going through the head tube and give them some slack. After that, I used the advice of JVBulman and used some force to free up everything. There is a small plastic plug near the top of the pivoting joint
(for lack of a better term) that has to be removed. That came out during my jerking/twisting. After it came out I looked inside and saw what appeared to be a stem bolt.
Finally, my adjustment resulted in the angle of the cockpit stem being vertical, which gave me about 50mm more height.
Also my bike has the Riese & Muller front rack with bag. Now the headlamp has a little more clearance above the bag.
This was my second attempt using these instructions. I loosened bolts A, B, C, D. At my first attempt I neglected to loosen bolts C and D because they appeared to me to be merely handlebar clamping bolts .
This time I loosened the handlebar clamping bolts C and D. There is a small T10 bolt in front of the head tube that I also loosened. I don't know the function of it but I thought it would release the cables
that are going through the head tube and give them some slack. After that, I used the advice of JVBulman and used some force to free up everything. There is a small plastic plug near the top of the pivoting joint
(for lack of a better term) that has to be removed. That came out during my jerking/twisting. After it came out I looked inside and saw what appeared to be a stem bolt.
Finally, my adjustment resulted in the angle of the cockpit stem being vertical, which gave me about 50mm more height.
Also my bike has the Riese & Muller front rack with bag. Now the headlamp has a little more clearance above the bag.
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