RadCity First 100 Miles

LeftyLoosey

New Member
Disclaimer: This is my first ever Ebike, so my expectations may be unreliable. If so, feel free to tell me off so I can make better purchase decisions in future.

After spending weeks researching on BBSHD conversions, I got lazy and picked this bike because it looked cool, EBR seemd to like it, and the specs looked great for the price.

Model: 16"

Use: Bought this bike for a sweatless daily travel of 18 miles to and from work. Route is pure tarmac road/trail, with the exception of this particular 100 yard stretch with tree roots cracking open the trail path. Slight up/down gradients no more than 6 degrees (calculated using my Runkeeper elevation chart) along the way making up about 5% of the trip.

Delivery:
Free shipping is great. Delivery was prompt and fast. However, the UPS people dumped the box on first floor. Had a fun time hauling the 70lb package up the stairs alone. The plastic handles on the cardboard box are not reliable, do not use them to pull. Mine gave way causing the box to cut up my knuckles. Wear gloves and pull on the plastic straps, get help if possible.

Assembly:
Followed the assembly video on the Rad website. It was really frustrating to assemble alone, mostly due to the weight of the frame causing it to constantly want to tip over and smack my face. The overly tightened disc brakes made installing the front wheel (the first time) really painful, and the rear wheel rotor kept squeaking.

The rear derailleur is okay. Not tuned out of the box so it can't go below gear 5. I don't use anything less than gear 5 so didn't bother indexing it. Both disc brakes are overly tightened, I highly recommend tuning them before first ride and get the rear wheel removal pain over with ASAP.

Bike Weight:
I severely underestimated what 60+lbs meant.

If you stay on any floor other than level one, you're going to have a fun time. I don't lift, but have sort of decent upper body and leg strength. This bike is very unwieldy to carry up and down the stairs. After a few times of experimenting and eventually injuring my wrist+elbows, I found the most efficient and least painful method to carry it.

Squat down to wrap the upper frame bar under your armpit with the saddle above your shoulders. Grip the lower frame bar directly beside the rear hub motor and lift it up with your legs, with your other hand holding on to the handle bar to prevent the heavy fork from giving you a bitch slap. This method gives you enough height clearance (I'm 5'5" 150lb so YMMV) to go upstairs without the front wheel bouncing off the steps, while relieving stress on your joints.
carry.jpg


First ride impressions:
It was really awesome to ride. The heavy frame makes the bike really stable. The large rear rack welded to the frame made carrying all sorts of cargo really easy. The throttle was great and the cadence sensor was quick to respond. Again, this is my first ebike, so not sure how responsive candence sensors should be like. Motor was very quiet; all I hear is the rolling of the tire treads. Free toolkit was a nice touch.

Impressions after riding the first 10 miles:
Ride quality is generally smooth until you hit the bumps. Get a suspension seatpost if budget allows if you don't enjoy having your crotch violently punched by a 60lb frame.

The 20mph limit was extremely irritating. From what I learnt on YouTube, I thought a 20mph limit meant that the motor will only assist up to 20mph, and speeds beyond that require extra effort to pedal. It didn't really feel that way with this bike. At 20mph, the motor actively kicks with its regenerative braking to stop you from going faster. It activates unpredictably causing really unnatural feeling. The closest analogy I can give is driving a car while someone is randomly tapping your brakes. Or if you drive a Nissan Leaf, imagine randomly lifting off your foot from acceleration while driving on ECO.

That said, you are able to enter the metric-based settings mode to increase the speed limit from 32kph to 40kph (~25mph). That made the ride a lot more natural, with short bursts of ~23mph going down gradients, but averaged at 20mph on flats with minimal pedalling.

Impressions after 100 miles:
This may be an issue of bad luck. Rad recommends 50-60psi, so I kept both wheels at 55 psi. My front wheel got a puncture less than 50 miles into riding the bike. A week later at 100 miles, my rear wheel got a puncture on the way to work. The culprit was a tiny piece of rock not more than 2mm wide embedded into the tires. For comparison, my $300 hybrid bike hasn't had a puncture in 7 years, of which 1000+ miles were put on this exact same route.

The rear wheel is tightly bolted down. The EBR YouTube review glosses over this, but mark my words you'll want to throw the bike into the ravine when you get your first rear wheel flat if you didn't do prior preparations to the rear wheel (anti-seize, grease etc.). The spanner provided in the free tool kit is way too short to loosen the bolt, so you'll need to hammer it to make it work. For me, hammering didn't work as the free spanner was chipping before the bolt would budge. I just ordered a new spanner set with a larger spanner instead. The free screwdriver provided was undersized for the bolt washer plate, causing stripping to the screw. My rear wheel bolt dust cover also managed to slip off while riding, so that sucks.

During the rear wheel tube patching, I realized the Rad team installed the tube valve incorrectly. The Schrader valve was only threaded halfway through, so the rim hole had been slicing into the valve. Didn't want to risk another rear wheel removal, so used a new tube instead of a patch.
20171015_202628.jpg


The Rad rep stated that consumables are not covered under their limited warranty, which I can totally understand. But it'd be nice to at least cover the first 100 miles in case of assembly errors on their part.

I intend to swap out the Kenda K905-007 tires for maybe Schwalbe tires to prevent more commute pain. In the meantime, also budgeting for a BBSHD to convert my hybrid before selling this bike, purely due to the bad taste in my mouth.

Radcity Prep Kit before hitting the road:
1. Your typical bicycle multitool.
2. A screwdriver that won't strip the washer screw. (+$5)
3. The free toolkit (after applying anti-seize/grease to the rear wheel bolts)
4. Patch kit, granted this is required for any bike. (+$5)
5. Wire cutter (to cut zip ties during rear wheel removal) (+$5)
6. At least 2 backup tubes, given the high failure rate I've experienced. (+$18)
7. Change the damn tires for decent puncture resistant ones. (+$100)
8. Tape down the rear wheel bolt dust covers, or just don't use them at all.

Who this bike is for:
1. Heavyweight and strong riders.
2. People who need a strong sturdy frame to carry heavy cargo.
3. People who already have a decent tool set in their house.
4. Riders who can store the bike on ground floor.
5. Riders who are less whiny than me.

Summary:
From my understanding $1500 is considered entry-level pricing for an ebike, but the price point still makes me sort of expect more from the product, considering the same price can get me an excellent 2017 Trek Emonda ALR5. At the very least, don't have the bike break down every 50 miles. What I got was a lot of buyer remorse and extra hidden costs that came with PITA bike maintenance. If you do intend to buy this bike, just budget a bit more to upgrade the parts, prep the bike before your ride, and you should have a better time than I had.
 
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Disclaimer: This is my first ever Ebike, so my expectations may be unreliable. If so, feel free to tell me off so I can make better purchase decisions in future.

After spending weeks researching on BBSHD conversions, I got lazy and picked this bike because it looked cool, EBR seemd to like it, and the specs looked great for the price.

Model: 16"

Use: Bought this bike for a sweatless daily travel of 18 miles to and from work. Route is pure tarmac road/trail, with the exception of this particular 100 yard stretch with tree roots cracking open the trail path. Slight up/down gradients no more than 6 degrees (calculated using my Runkeeper elevation chart) along the way making up about 5% of the trip.

Delivery:
Free shipping is great. Delivery was prompt and fast. However, the UPS people dumped the box on first floor. Had a fun time hauling the 70lb package up the stairs alone. The plastic handles on the cardboard box are not reliable, do not use them to pull. Mine gave way causing the box to cut up my knuckles. Wear gloves and pull on the plastic straps, get help if possible.

Assembly:
Followed the assembly video on the Rad website. It was really frustrating to assemble alone, mostly due to the weight of the frame causing it to constantly want to tip over and smack my face. The overly tightened disc brakes made installing the front wheel (the first time) really painful, and the rear wheel rotor kept squeaking.

The rear derailleur is okay. Not tuned out of the box so it can't go below gear 5. I don't use anything less than gear 5 so didn't bother indexing it. Both disc brakes are overly tightened, I highly recommend tuning them before first ride and get the rear wheel removal pain over with ASAP.

Bike Weight:
I severely underestimated what 60+lbs meant.

If you stay on any floor other than level one, you're going to have a fun time. I don't lift, but have sort of decent upper body and leg strength. This bike is very unwieldy to carry up and down the stairs. After a few times of experimenting and eventually injuring my wrist+elbows, I found the most efficient and least painful method to carry it.

Squat down to wrap the upper frame bar under your armpit with the saddle above your shoulders. Grip the lower frame bar directly beside the rear hub motor and lift it up with your legs, with your other hand holding on to the handle bar to prevent the heavy fork from giving you a bitch slap. This method gives you enough height clearance (I'm 5'5" 150lb so YMMV) to go upstairs without the front wheel bouncing off the steps, while relieving stress on your joints.
carry.jpg


First ride impressions:
It was really awesome to ride. The heavy frame makes the bike really stable. The large rear rack welded to the frame made carrying all sorts of cargo really easy. The throttle was great and the cadence sensor was quick to respond. Again, this is my first ebike, so not sure how responsive candence sensors should be like. Motor was very quiet; all I hear is the rolling of the tire treads. Free toolkit was a nice touch.

Impressions after riding the first 10 miles:
Ride quality is generally smooth until you hit the bumps. Get a suspension seatpost if budget allows if you don't enjoy having your crotch violently punched by a 60lb frame.

The 20mph limit was extremely irritating. From what I learnt on YouTube, I thought a 20mph limit meant that the motor will only assist up to 20mph, and speeds beyond that require extra effort to pedal. It didn't really feel that way with this bike. At 20mph, the motor actively kicks with its regenerative braking to stop you from going faster. It activates unpredictably causing really unnatural feeling. The closest analogy I can give is driving a car while someone is randomly tapping your brakes. Or if you drive a Nissan Leaf, imagine randomly lifting off your foot from acceleration while driving on ECO.

That said, you are able to enter the metric-based settings mode to increase the speed limit from 32kph to 40kph (~25mph). That made the ride a lot more natural, with short bursts of ~23mph going down gradients, but averaged at 20mph on flats with minimal pedalling.

Impressions after 100 miles:
This may be an issue of bad luck. Rad recommends 50-60psi, so I kept both wheels at 55 psi. My front wheel got a puncture less than 50 miles into riding the bike. A week later at 100 miles, my rear wheel got a puncture on the way to work. The culprit was a tiny piece of rock not more than 2mm wide embedded into the tires. For comparison, my $300 hybrid bike hasn't had a puncture in 7 years, of which 1000+ miles were put on this exact same route.

The rear wheel is tightly bolted down. The EBR YouTube review glosses over this, but mark my words you'll want to throw the bike into the ravine when you get your first rear wheel flat if you didn't do prior preparations to the rear wheel (anti-seize, grease etc.). The spanner provided in the free tool kit is way too short to loosen the bolt, so you'll need to hammer it to make it work. For me, hammering didn't work as the free spanner was chipping before the bolt would budge. I just ordered a new spanner set with a larger spanner instead. The free screwdriver provided was undersized for the bolt washer plate, causing stripping to the screw. My rear wheel bolt dust cover also managed to slip off while riding, so that sucks.

During the rear wheel tube patching, I realized the Rad team installed the tube valve incorrectly. The Schrader valve was only threaded halfway through, so the rim hole had been slicing into the valve. Didn't want to risk another rear wheel removal, so used a new tube instead of a patch.
20171015_202628.jpg


The Rad rep stated that consumables are not covered under their limited warranty, which I can totally understand. But it'd be nice to at least cover the first 100 miles in case of assembly errors on their part.

I intend to swap out the Kenda K905-007 tires for maybe Schwalbe tires to prevent more commute pain. In the meantime, also budgeting for a BBSHD to convert my hybrid before selling this bike, purely due to the bad taste in my mouth.

Radcity Prep Kit before hitting the road:
1. Your typical bicycle multitool.
2. A screwdriver that won't strip the washer screw. (+$5)
3. The free toolkit (after applying anti-seize/grease to the rear wheel bolts)
4. Patch kit, granted this is required for any bike. (+$5)
5. Wire cutter (to cut zip ties during rear wheel removal) (+$5)
6. At least 2 backup tubes, given the high failure rate I've experienced. (+$18)
7. Change the damn tires for decent puncture resistant ones. (+$100)
8. Tape down the rear wheel bolt dust covers, or just don't use them at all.

Who this bike is for:
1. Heavyweight and strong riders.
2. People who need a strong sturdy frame to carry heavy cargo.
3. People who already have a decent tool set in their house.
4. Riders who can store the bike on ground floor.
5. Riders who are less whiny than me.

Summary:
From my understanding $1500 is considered entry-level pricing for an ebike, but the price point still makes me sort of expect more from the product, considering the same price can get me an excellent 2017 Trek Emonda ALR5. At the very least, don't have the bike break down every 50 miles. What I got was a lot of buyer remorse and extra hidden costs that came with PITA bike maintenance. If you do intend to buy this bike, just budget a bit more to upgrade the parts, prep the bike before your ride, and you should have a better time than I had.
 
This excellent review strikes me as being strong on both veracity and fairness. I have an acquaintance who purchased an ebike from the same company. Difference was that he purchased the RadMini. Near the same experience with the onset of early and multiple flats and frustration with getting to and fixing the rear tire ones.
 
That's too bad - we have over 500 miles on our Trek eBikes and they advertise puncture resistant tires - so far no flats on all kinds of surfaces. Is there a resource here with a list of good puncture resistant tires for the online community to choose from?
 
I have a radmini and rover, neither have had excessive flats but i do have slime or whatever sealant the lbs put in all the tires and did that before we rode at all

Here in az lots of thorns etc
Occassionally i will find a tire low , but i just air it back up, spin it and they are fine again for months...

I have probably just been lucky, but maybe try a sealant
 
Excellent write-up on first impressions for new ebikers. Price was first on my list because my thinking was to work out the pros/cons and likes/dislikes before moving on to my 2nd ebike purchase a few years down the road (hopefully prices, range, and capabilities would also improve the next 2-3 yrs). I figured a few years with the Radrovers would give me an excellent starting point with a lot of ebike experience to draw from on my next e-ride.

I've had my two his/her Radrovers for over an year with +3500 miles between them. The RadCity wasn't available at time of purchase and I might have done one of each (RadCity for the wife). I had to make a few mods like 0-60 degree adjustable handlebar stem, better pedals, Cloud-9 cruiser seat, and Suntour suspension seatpost. I found the Rad bikes are like a "Swiss army knife" or "Gerber multi-tool" of ebikes. Not the best in any one area; but, very good to have if you encounter a lot of different situations.

The amount of debis you run over in the road when commuting is unbelievable! I've had issues with commuting flats with standard Kenda tires. It helped to use Mr. Tuffy liners and Stans tire sealant in the tubes. What really helped was Mr. Tuffy+Stans+Vee8 tires. I have yet to have a flat riding the exact same routes with the Vee8 tires +1200 miles compared to 5 "tire falling off the rim" flats with the Kenda. Upgrading the tires might save you from a flat or two.

I'm constantly tweaking the brakes and derailleur on my rovers and I have several problems related to the bike being beat up during shipping. The issues we will have at this price point; but, I've learned so much about bike maintenance that is extremely helpful.

I keep my rovers in the garage at home. I have to take my rover to the 2nd floor to store at work in a private room next to my office (I have the only key). I'm lucky to have an elevator near the main entrance that lets off next to my office area at 6am. I take my rover down the back fire escape stairs after work since the door lets out closer to my direction of travel (and I avoid running into +20 folks asking about my bike). I use to carry my bike down the stairs until I discovered it was waaaaay easier to walk it down the stairs riding both brakes. I also discovered (when the elevator was down), I can push the rover up stairs using the throttle. Much easier to apply the throttle is this application if you attached a thumb throttle.

Hopefully, the negative first impression will not be a lasting impression of the capabilities of the RadCity.
 
Thanks for all the feedback! Because I'm still bitter, I went to make sense of the purchase.

So here are the semi-accurate list of components that I have found:
Shengyi 48V 750W Direct Drive Rear Hub Motor US$60
I can't find the exact model, but a search on Alibaba reveals that 48V1000W direct drives range from 300-400RMB. I guesstimated for 750W the cost may be about 350rmb + shipping ~ US$60.

SW900 LCD Display US$45

Brushless Sine Wave Controller US$50
These things cost about US$35-US$60 on the market. I'll take roughly the middle ground.

Panasonic 48V 11.5ah Battery Pack US$380
Luna has it on sale for roughly US$400. Assuming they manage to make a 5% profit off it, guesstimating the cost price to be US$380

Twist Throttle US$15
eBay prices.

Velo Plush Saddle US$30
Another guesstimate based on Amazon prices.

Shimano Tourney TX50 7 Speed Rear Shifter US$8
Found a front rear shifter set for $16 online. Guesstimate one side is US$8.

MF-TZ31 MegaRange Cassette US$10

Kickstand US$10
Seems to be the average price for most kickstands.

Aluminum 6061 Alloy Frame US$160
This is hard to gauge since it seems to be a custom weld with a pretty sweet rear rack. The most expensive Aluminum 6061 MTB frame on Aliexpress is around US$160, so I'll just use that.

Suntour SR MTB Suspension Fork US$70

Zoom Handlebar US$20

Zoom Quill Stem US$35


Fenders US$30
These look like SKS commuter mudguards.

Chain US$10

Chainguard US$10

Spokes US$20?


Headset US$10

Grips US$10

Seatpost Clamp with Quick Release US$15

Promax Seatpost US$30

Prowheel Single Speed Crankset US$40

Aliexpress price

Tektro Brake Levers with Integrated Bell US$20

http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?catid=207&productid=1283

Tektro 180mm Front+Rear Mechanical Disc Brakes US$50
Judging from the 160mm version on Amazon.

Cables US$10
Cheapest possible https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Brake-Derailleur-Cable-Repair/dp/B00L8NDVD6

Shimano Acera Rear Derailleur US$20

36H 26" Aluminum Machined Rims US$100

Gauging from Velocity machined rims, and assuming it's not bulk ordered from China, around $50 per rim.

Kenda Rim Lining US$4
2 X $2

Kenda Tubes US$16

Kenda Tires US$60

Kenda K905-007 26" X 2.3" tires at $30 each.

Spanninga Headlight Micro LED FF US$20

Battery Op Rear Light US$8

This thing can't possibly cost more.

Wellgo M111 Pedals US$30


Total Component MSRP ~ US$1400

Assuming the bulk order discounts went to the free shipping and other unforeseen stuff I left out, the cost of producing a single RadCity is probably around $1400, that leaves $99/bike to cover their R&D, logistics, marketing, staff salaries etc.

Ebike specific components make up about 40% of the cost. Further taking away miscellaneous components that don't come with a typical MTB, this is equivalent to buying an electrified $750 bicycle.

Which is puzzling, because you could get a pretty decent entry-level MTB at $750.

My hypothesis is that because of the heavy-duty requirements, a disproportionate amount of the cost went into the frame and rims, leaving the bike with a set of meh parts. I haven't seen a single positive review of the Rad bikes that hasn't involved the reviewer upgrading/modifying the parts.

Just off the top of my head stuff I would love to change:
1. Seat post for the Suntour Suspension SP12-NCX. Fork suspension is pointless when you get crotch punched.
2. Brakes. These are fine for the time being, but I don't enjoy having to remove the rear wheel just to tune it.
3. Quill stem. Max height is still too low.
4. Gear Shifter. It works, more of an aesthetic reason.
5. Brake Levers. These things are really flimsy. Could always add a separate bell if needed.
6. Cranks. For some reason the cranks are awfully narrow on such a large bike.
7. Tires <- A bike this heavy should be using Schwalbe Marathons. The thin Kendas are pure garbage for this weight/speed class. I'll probably get tuffy tire liners as recommended for the time being. Not sure about the sealant thing, not familiar with voodoo tubeless magic. Will give tube sealants a try though.
8. 12-80V LED 1000lm Headlight. <-- This is something I don't get. These things are dirt cheap and low power enough to be insignificant to the range. The underwhelming 200lm Spanninga could've easily been swapped out at the same cost. Maybe because it requires extra work to adapt to the fenders and fork.
9. Rear light. I would not trust my life to this. Getting a 48V tail light connected in parallel to the headlights would be sweet. Might have to check the amp limit of the controller though.

Advice to myself for next online purchase is to research the ebike-specific parts first, then deduct the cost from whatever ebike I'm looking at and ask myself if I want a bike of that quality.

tl;dr, When you buy a RadCity, you're purchasing a blank canvas to swap out parts, so any expectations of it to just work smoothly out of the box should be dramatically lowered. It accomplishes the job (electrifying the cargo-laden commute) while leaving you wanting a lot more.
 
I figured the upgrades I made to my Radrover would have been the same if I did purchase a $750 fat tire bike (suspension seatpost, tires, pedals, handle bar riser, front/rear lights, etc...). I probably could have added a hub or mid-drive kit from Luna cycles to the $750 pedal bike to have something just as good or better than the Radrover. I ended up taking the Rover route and getting an ebike ready to go out the box compared to kit bike with a lot of tinkering. I also had need for the 1 year warranty for the bike parts and e-components alike. I was able to give/receive a ton of advice and ideals on the rover from other ebike owners on this forum.

There is always something better; but, you either have to pay extra $$$ for it and/or wait until the technology becomes available the next model year. I really don't think I would have done anything differently in the last +3500 miles of e-riding if I had a $4000-$7000 top-of-the-line ebike compared to my Rover?

Sounds like you might have to sell the RadCity and go for something in-line with your expectations for an ebike experience.
 
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