Problems with Ancheer hub motor or controller

[steve marino]

Hi. I have an Ancheer E Bike (photo attached) and had an "interesting" problem with it yesterday. For some time I have been hearing what sounded like loose spokes on the rear, but nothing was loose. Yesterday I took off from a stand still and heard a grinding sound, followed by a large vibration. It was close to home so I ignored it, and after a while the motor just quit. Turning off the battery, I turned everything back on and the motor ran for about 5 seconds and cut off again. The bike is always used in throttle only mode, so it's not the sensors, I think.

At the house I took the rear wheel off and opened the motor. No signs of anything wrong inside, but there was a circular gouge lightly cut into the outside of the hub, and a screw was missing from the disc brake rotor assy. Figuring that the screw must have fallen out and got jammed, which caused the gouge, I buttoned everything back up and tried the bike out. Same problem. It runs for about 5 seconds and stops, and won't go again until I slowly rotate the rear tire and at a certain place it goes, then stops . If I give it throttle once it's going again and turn the throttle off after less than 5 seconds it will run for about 5 cycles of that, then it stops again. The controller looks fine, no smell from being burnt, and everything else looks OK.

Does this sound like the motor is the problem? I can get a whole rear assy w/ motor, rim, tire, etc for $200 so that's not so bad, but I am wondering if it is actually the motor or something else? The motor is brushless by the way.

 

[harryS]

Hard to tell. You can try a new motor, and if that doesn't work then a new controller. That's what a shop would do if it had the parts.

Might be a bad Hall sensor inside the motor. There are three that tell the controller the position of the motor, Rotating the motor til it starts is a clue in support of that theory. Have you got the electrical skills to check a Hall sensor?

I;ve never seen one fail on over half a dozen motors in three years, I own one of these testers. About 12 bucks.

Ancheer probably has a different connector, but this is how you test them manually. The guy has an old analog meter. Funny, But if you can reach the blue, yellow, and green wires, you check them against ground and see if they swing between 0 and +5 volts as the wheel turns.,

 

[steve marino]

Thank you for your input Harry. It makes sense to me, and it also makes sense that I really do not have the electrical knowledge to dig into this problem. I'm more of an assembler and parts swapper. Most anything mechanical I can fix, but this electrical stuff is out of my league, so I am going to start another thread to see if even basic parts swapping is beyond my skill set. Thanks again!

 

[steve marino]

Just to give an update, the original seller of my bike got back to me in an email tonight and they are going to ship me the complete real wheel assembly (motor, laced rim, gear set, tire, etc) for $200 including shipping. The bike is over a year old and out of warranty, so this is a decent price, and I won't have any compatibility problems w/ my controller.

I guess there is always a chance that my controller or battery is bad, but it's probably the motor since I had that problem w/ the bolt falling off to begin with and jamming things up back there. This is a bottom priced e bike, but the seller has been very good with service, and some time ago sent me a horn and front light for free when mine stopped working.

 

[steve marino]

Rear wheel/motor assy arrived. Bolted right on, bike runs fine again. Now I can open up the old motor at my leisure and see if I can fix it. It would be nice to have a spare.