Noseless bicycle seat--a love story

The Spiderflex looks good too except those pads might be too small for my um... sizable... hind. Do the front rails ever become an issue with pushing into your thighs?

Not that I've noticed. I have the seat set as far back as it will go so the rails are out of the way.
 
Interesting thread and I was not aware of this type of seat until reading it, thank you for sharing.

Just asking, for those who have these seats, have you tried a seat like this previously?

My friends and I call them the eagle beak type of seat. They are on the same wave length as the nose-less models shared here having the nose curl down and away - this is the seat I ride on most of my bikes currently and why I ask for your experience if you have it comparing the two?

Thanks
 
Thank you all for a very informative post regarding seats. I too, have tried most of the solutions above and found a suspension seat post. I've installed a Kinekt 2.1 Aluminum Seatpost on my Cheetah and it has totally changed how my back end feels after a long ride. They offer a wide range of spring rates for different size/weight riders and a much more plush seat. I hope this provides some ideas on how to make your rides that much more comfortable.

Seat Post.jpg
 
Thank you all for a very informative post regarding seats. I too, have tried most of the solutions above and found a suspension seat post. I've installed a Kinekt 2.1 Aluminum Seatpost on my Cheetah and it has totally changed how my back end feels after a long ride. They offer a wide range of spring rates for different size/weight riders and a much more plush seat. I hope this provides some ideas on how to make your rides that much more comfortable.

View attachment 65533

Glad you found something that fits your needs.

I recommend getting this product to protect your Kinekt:


It will keep debris and water from getting into the mechanism. Well worth the $15 price to protect your $250+ investment.
 
FYIO... Saddle height setting use the .885 rule.
The 885 rule is derived from the research done by "Claude Genzling". During the Tour de France of 1978. Where he measured the body sizes of the cyclists and the respective adjustments of their bicycles. On the basis of these measurements Genzling arrived at the following conclusion:
The saddle height (the distance from the heart of the bottom bracket to the upper part of the saddle) = 0.885 x inner leg length.
The formula is not perfect since it does not take in account the crank arm length but it is a useful guideline to start with.
 
FYIO... Saddle height setting use the .885 rule.
The 885 rule is derived from the research done by "Claude Genzling". During the Tour de France of 1978. Where he measured the body sizes of the cyclists and the respective adjustments of their bicycles. On the basis of these measurements Genzling arrived at the following conclusion:
The saddle height (the distance from the heart of the bottom bracket to the upper part of the saddle) = 0.885 x inner leg length.
The formula is not perfect since it does not take in account the crank arm length but it is a useful guideline to start with.
I use a similar saddle height adjustment method on my conventional bikes but find I need a somewhat lower setting for e-bikes. These heavier bikes are a bit more difficult to manage when mounting & dismounting. Mainly for safety reasons, I like to be able to touch the ground with my toes when seated.

Due to their electric assist, the need for pedal efficiency on an e-bike is far less than for a conventional bike.

Obviously, this is a personal choice though and others have to make adjustments based on their own comfort level.
 
Agreed, I added this as a starting point only.
We all have to go through our own adjustment, ride, adjustment, ride, buy a new saddle and repeat the process.
I would say this is the #1 area most riders spend time till they get it right.
 
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