[NEED HELP] ProdecoTech 36v 16ah Battery on Conversion Kit (No Mount)

[AntHobbyist]

Hi, I have been having trouble using my Prodecotech Battery on my 1000w 48v Rear Conversion Kit .

- I opened the Battery
-Cut the Negative and Positive Terminal .
-Connected a T connector to both the controller and the battery .
-Turned on the throttle
- I get the RED Yellow Green Lights to turn on
-I twist throttle and get NOTHING

** i TESTED THE BATTERY With a Analog Multimeter and i get 40V
Also the Kit is Brand New . I hanged controllers that didnt work either .

Any help is appreciated . Will provide Pictures in a Few .

My thought is that i cant used the Battery without the Prodecotech Mount that is Required using Key Ignition . But i thought i bypassed that if
i am Getting Power to throttle being that it lit up .

 

[harryS]

It would seem to me that your 36V battery, at 40V output if your analog meter is honest, is too low of a voltage to run your 48V kit. The RED light on its display is lit?

A 36V pack is 42.0V at full charge.

A 48V pack is 54.6V at full charge , 48V at half charge, and is considered discharged at 40-42V. Most 48V controllers are set to not run the motor around 40-42V. That's what is happening.

You'll have to get a 48V battery, or switch to a 36V controller.

 

[AntHobbyist]

Wow that makes alot of sense .. The Battery isnt Fully charged so im guessing when it is full charged it would be 42v as you said .
Both controllers i have tried are in fact 48v , My problems with buying controllers via Online is the Connectors . None ever see to match my throttle connectors . I will get a 36v Controller Later tonight and Give an Update

I appreciate you for getting back to me so fast
Thanks Harry !

 

[AntHobbyist]

It would seem to me that your 36V battery, at 40V output if your analog meter is honest, is too low of a voltage to run your 48V kit. The RED light on its display is lit?

A 36V pack is 42.0V at full charge.

A 48V pack is 54.6V at full charge , 48V at half charge, and is considered discharged at 40-42V. Most 48V controllers are set to not run the motor around 40-42V. That's what is happening.

You'll have to get a 48V battery, or switch to a 36V controller.

Quick Question could i buy a 12v Pack and run it parallel with my 36v to have enought power to start up my 48v 1000w motor?

 

[spinnanz]

Quick Question could i buy a 12v Pack and run it parallel with my 36v to have enought power to start up my 48v 1000w motor?

power up and check all is working, very likely. Use, I would say not as the discharge rates/capacity wont be the same.

 

[harryS]

Not parallel. You mean series. Stacked one on top of another in an electrical diagram. Parallel is side by side and with different voltages, there will be a kaboom. Not parallel. Never parallel

Yes, it will work, and I have done it myself, combining a 12V pack(s) in series with a 36V pack to get 48V. There is some risk here. If one pack shuts off, it will get the combined voltage of both packs across its BMS transistors. Depends on their rating, they could pop if too low. The 12V pack is more at risk as it's likely to have lower voltage components. The 36V pack will have transistors of sufficient size, or should anyway. The pack will shut off when its depleted, and the battery with the lower AH rating will shut off first.

So if you do it, don't run it so long that the 12V pack shuts off first. In my case, the 12V packs are home-made from spare lithium cells. I have two 12V6AH packs at about 10 dollars each in cost, so no great loss if I lose them, but I am aware of the above issue. I rarely use them anyway like this. They are of more use powering my lights or a Mp3 unit. I even ran my Black&Decker drill off them when I used it to drill holes to plant tulips.

EDIT:
My advice would be that a series 12V pack makes for a good test to see if your system works, but if you have to spend money for one as a permanent solution, that's a bad idea. You could just wire in a car battery or borrow a wheelchair pack to prove the motor spins
.

 

[AntHobbyist]

Not parallel. You mean series. Stacked one on top of another in an electrical diagram. Parallel is side by side and with different voltages, there will be a kaboom. Not parallel. Never parallel

Yes, it will work, and I have done it myself, combining a 12V pack(s) in series with a 36V pack to get 48V. There is some risk here. If one pack shuts off, it will get the combined voltage of both packs across its BMS transistors. Depends on their rating, they could pop if too low. The 12V pack is more at risk as it's likely to have lower voltage components. The 36V pack will have transistors of sufficient size, or should anyway. The pack will shut off when its depleted, and the battery with the lower AH rating will shut off first.

So if you do it, don't run it so long that the 12V pack shuts off first. In my case, the 12V packs are home-made from spare lithium cells. I have two 12V6AH packs at about 10 dollars each in cost, so no great loss if I lose them, but I am aware of the above issue. I rarely use them anyway like this. They are of more use powering my lights or a Mp3 unit. I even ran my Black&Decker drill off them when I used it to drill holes to plant tulips.

EDIT:
My advice would be that a series 12V pack makes for a good test to see if your system works, but if you have to spend money for one as a permanent solution, that's a bad idea. You could just wire in a car battery or borrow a wheelchair pack to prove the motor spins
.

Great Where did you find a 12v 6ah pack for $10 bucks !!!? lol thats great

 

[harryS]

I took apart a $20 surplus hoverboard battery to see how it was made. That gave me 20 2AH Samsung cells. I used 18 to make two 3S-3P 12V6AH pack. Added a $4 BMS from ebay.

I guess the exact math is $13., $9 for the cells, plus $4 for BMS.