My perfect Vado 5.0 IGH

TonyB6255 said:
Another seat going back to REI. I am returning the Repsiro Athletic not becasue I don't like it but the Selle Anantomica H2 off my road bike is much better. I love it on my road bike but would not have thought it would be good for the Vado but it is. I rode 20 miles today with just a pair of adidas soccer pants and after making a couple stops to raise the seat and adjust the nose, it's perfect. I also adjusted the tension on my seat post so it actually worked and I can't beleive the difference it made. If the Kinect post is better than that, it will be the next purchase.
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Selle Anatomica's on all my bikes.
 
I went for a shakedown/adjusment ride with the Kinekt seatpost with Selle Anatomica H2. The seatpost was worth every penny and along with the H2 seat, it just makes this bike even better.
 

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TonyB6255 said:
I went for a shakedown/adjusment ride with the Kinekt seatpost with Selle Anatomica H2. The seatpost was worth every penny and along with the H2 seat, it just makes this bike even better.
Click to expand...
Could you elaborate a bit on how it is different from the stock suspension post?
 
TonyB6255 said:
I went for a shakedown/adjusment ride with the Kinekt seatpost with Selle Anatomica H2. The seatpost was worth every penny and along with the H2 seat, it just makes this bike even better.
Click to expand...
Does the Kinekt result in your seat being moved back an inch. I've got an XL frame and I'm right on the borderline between the L and XL. It took me awhile to convince myself the reach wasn't too large on the XL. I'm afraid that if the seat was moved back an inch, I would find the reach uncomfortable. Thanks!
 
dynamic said:
Could you elaborate a bit on how it is different from the stock suspension post?
Click to expand...
I adjusted the tension as far out as I was comfortable doing on the stock and while there is some suspension action it still felt almost solid. The Kinekt suspension felt so much smoother while absorbing any shock from bumps etc. The Kinekt could possibly get even better as I never even played with tension. I installed it and went riding. The seat tilt adjustments are much easier with the Kinekt as well.

Pro Tip if you feel your seat is adjusted properly now, lay something flat like a level across your seat and measure from the top or bottom of that along the down tube to the center of the crank. I learned that a long time ago with my road bikes.
 
Nonlinear said:
Does the Kinekt result in your seat being moved back an inch. I've got an XL frame and I'm right on the borderline between the L and XL. It took me awhile to convince myself the reach wasn't too large on the XL. I'm afraid that if the seat was moved back an inch, I would find the reach uncomfortable. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I'm not sure because I didn't measure that. I really don't think so though, as my seat is about the same location as before but I could be totally wrong:D. I would call Cirrus and ask them.
 
dynamic said:
Could you elaborate a bit on how it is different from the stock suspension post?
Click to expand...
From what I can see in the Vado 5.0 IGH picture, the stock suspension post travels along the seat-tube, which is at an angle. However, the saddle tends to travel vertically (not at an angle) when you are riding. This makes the seat-posts with the simple spring inside the seat-post ineffective. There has to be a mechanism to translate the vertical saddle/rider's movement to the action of the suspension to make a perfect suspension seat-post.

Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 and Redshift Shock Stop seat-posts each have such a mechanism.
  • Kinekt is suspended on springs installed inside the parallelogram mechanism under the saddle. As you are riding, the mechanism translates the vertical movement of the saddle into the horizontal movements of the spring.
  • Shock Stop has a parallelogram mechanism that translates the vertical saddle movement into the suspension spring(s) (one or two) working inside the seat-post.
Both solutions are equally effective.

There is a concept of "preload" for any good suspension system. A suspension seat-post must become preloaded so your own weight will not compress the suspension as you are getting on the bike. Kinekt has it done very simple way. After installing a colour-coded spring proper for your body weight range, you sit on the bike in your usual cycling clothes and shoes, and the other person helping you not to fall rotates the preload bolt at the back of the saddle until the bolt cannot be rotated any more. (There is a smart cam mechanism there that helps the thing be properly done). A scale on the cam makes it easy to memorize the proper position of the preload for a given rider.

Shock Stop has it differently. With the seat-post removed from the seat-tube, you just rotate a cartridge at the bottom of the post into a marked position according to the weight/preload table. You can also install an additional internal spring if you are very heavy.

As I said, both systems sport the same performance, that is, they cancel the road bumps totally. Kinekt is available in many seat-post diameters; Shock Stop is only 27.2 mm but you can buy shims for bigger seat-tube diameters.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
From what I can see in the Vado 5.0 IGH picture, the stock suspension post travels along the seat-tube, which is at an angle. However, the saddle tends to travel vertically (not at an angle) when you are riding. This makes the seat-posts with the simple spring inside the seat-post ineffective. There has to be a mechanism to translate the vertical saddle/rider's movement to the action of the suspension to make a perfect suspension seat-post.

Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 and Redshift Shock Stop seat-posts each have such a mechanism.
  • Kinekt is suspended on springs installed inside the parallelogram mechanism under the saddle. As you are riding, the mechanism translates the vertical movement of the saddle into the horizontal movements of the spring.
  • Shock Stop has a parallelogram mechanism that translates the vertical saddle movement into the suspension spring(s) (one or two) working inside the seat-post.
Both solutions are equally effective.

There is a concept of "preload" for any good suspension system. A suspension seat-post must become preloaded so your own weight will not compress the suspension as you are getting on the bike. Kinekt has it done very simple way. After installing a colour-coded spring proper for your body weight range, you sit on the bike in your usual cycling clothes and shoes, and the other person helping you not to fall rotates the preload bolt at the back of the saddle until the bolt cannot be rotated any more. (There is a smart cam mechanism there that helps the thing be properly done). A scale on the cam makes it easy to memorize the proper position of the preload for a given rider.

Shock Stop has it differently. With the seat-post removed from the seat-tube, you just rotate a cartridge at the bottom of the post into a marked position according to the weight/preload table. You can also install an additional internal spring if you are very heavy.

As I said, both systems sport the same performance, that is, they cancel the road bumps totally. Kinekt is available in many seat-post diameters; Shock Stop is only 27.2 mm but you can buy shims for bigger seat-tube diameters.
Click to expand...
^^^What he said^^^
I just know it feels better on the tush than the stock seatpost. lol
 
This is the adjustment procedure from the Kinect website

Sit in normal riding position

Tighten pre-load bolt (control knob) until saddle no longer rises when unweighted

Reset saddle position using your previously recorded measurements

Use previously recorded height, reach and tilt


Ps just read Kinect has new website, this came from the old one, I have not had a chance to check it out
 
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Stefan Mikes said:
From what I can see in the Vado 5.0 IGH picture, the stock suspension post travels along the seat-tube, which is at an angle. However, the saddle tends to travel vertically (not at an angle) when you are riding. This makes the seat-posts with the simple spring inside the seat-post ineffective. There has to be a mechanism to translate the vertical saddle/rider's movement to the action of the suspension to make a perfect suspension seat-post.

Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 and Redshift Shock Stop seat-posts each have such a mechanism.
  • Kinekt is suspended on springs installed inside the parallelogram mechanism under the saddle. As you are riding, the mechanism translates the vertical movement of the saddle into the horizontal movements of the spring.
  • Shock Stop has a parallelogram mechanism that translates the vertical saddle movement into the suspension spring(s) (one or two) working inside the seat-post.
Click to expand...
I'll also add that the Suntour NCX17 seatpost has the parallelogram design with the spring in the seatpost and is very effective. Preload requires removing the seatpost from the tube to adjust. Figure it's not popular in these parts because of price (sub- or right around $100), and brand name does not have cache of other brands. ;)
 
My "perfect" Vado is no longer perfect. It's going to the shop tomorrow for a weird "dead spot" in the pedal. I started noticing a little noise and skip for lack of a better description a couple days ago. I am not one to worry about every little thing so I blew it off. Howver, on last night's ride it was much more frequent. It almost feels like when a pedal bearing goes bad and you get the rythmic catch. I had just put Chester pedals on so I put the stock ones back on and it still does it. I have a Park bike stand so I got it on the stand and clamped down, which by myself was no easy feat!

I pedaled by hand and there is definite dead spot from 1 oclock to 3 if on the right side. I called the LBS and they told me to bring it in and they will troubleshoot it and get it fixed. I really hope this doesn't turn into a ongoing issue......
 
TonyB6255 said:
My "perfect" Vado is no longer perfect. It's going to the shop tomorrow for a weird "dead spot" in the pedal. I started noticing a little noise and skip for lack of a better description a couple days ago. I am not one to worry about every little thing so I blew it off. Howver, on last night's ride it was much more frequent. It almost feels like when a pedal bearing goes bad and you get the rythmic catch. I had just put Chester pedals on so I put the stock ones back on and it still does it. I have a Park bike stand so I got it on the stand and clamped down, which by myself was no easy feat!

I pedaled by hand and there is definite dead spot from 1 oclock to 3 if on the right side. I called the LBS and they told me to bring it in and they will troubleshoot it and get it fixed. I really hope this doesn't turn into a ongoing issue......
Click to expand...
I had that (I think) from the sound of it. How many miles on yours? Mine started at 200 miles or so. They replaced my motor, but I still go slippage above 24 MPH. So they said that's just where this one tops out with the stock chainring + sprocket setup.... until my hub locked up. They have tried replacing the hub twice, and neither pair to the main computer, so they're sending me a new bike.... but it won't be in for a month because of inventory shortage.... I hope you have better luck.
 
When I am crushing at higher speeds down a hill, I also notice that the resistance on the pedalling seems to cut in and out. As I pedal, I can feel periods of resistance and no resistance. Is this the same thing you guys are talking about?
 
Onimaru said:
I had that (I think) from the sound of it. How many miles on yours? Mine started at 200 miles or so. They replaced my motor, but I still go slippage above 24 MPH. So they said that's just where this one tops out with the stock chainring + sprocket setup.... until my hub locked up. They have tried replacing the hub twice, and neither pair to the main computer, so they're sending me a new bike.... but it won't be in for a month because of inventory shortage.... I hope you have better luck.
Click to expand...
I have exactly 199.8 miles on mine so this does not make me feel very good.
 
Nonlinear said:
When I am crushing at higher speeds down a hill, I also notice that the resistance on the pedalling seems to cut in and out. As I pedal, I can feel periods of resistance and no resistance. Is this the same thing you guys are talking about?
Click to expand...
Yes it does that and that honestly doesn't bother me that much. My bike is doing that along with some noise on flat ground. I've had my bike for 35 days and this happens on a $5500 bike, I'm not real pleased to say the least. If they fix it and it is done, all is well but if it persists then they better be getting me a new bike and probably not an IGH.

That being said I love this bike and the IGH if it is working properly. I just hope it doesn't turn into a complete pain in the ass. The LBS I bought it from is hour and half away and while there is a Specialized shop much closer, I was told I would probably be charged labor. WTF!
 
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