My 1st 50 miles on the new Como 5.0

[mschwett]

I know a lot of readers here may think I’m a nit picker, but being made aware of a condition that did not occur previously and sharing that experience is my intention.
if you wish to, there is a great reference article I stumbled upon I’d like to share regrading crank length.
It’s refreshing to know I’m not going crazy or letting Stefans opinions make me feel like I am doing something stupid.
read: https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-gear/are-mtb-cranksets-too-long-for-a-lot-of-riders-they-might-be/
So I’ll most likely order some shorter cranks and give some reports afterwards.
thanks to all for your endurance with my observations and sharing.

the article is about MTB cranks, which as they note tend to come in many fewer lengths than road cranks. for example, the vado SL come with three crank sizes for the four sizes, whereas all three como sizes come with 170mm cranks, supposedly. i read the original paper referenced there before making the cranks 5mm shorter on my creo, because i was having an occasional pedal strike at high speed. the actual culprit: the wrong pedals for a road bike, and poor technique. haven't had a pedal strike since those issues were resolved!

you should confirm that your como has the correct 170mm cranks. are you running the stock pedals? the super-giant platform pedals popular for MTBs with their high bottom brackets are not really suitable for bikes ridden on pavement. the wide Q-factor of a mid-drive e-bike would compound the problem, and i suppose the front fork might as well if under load, the front end would lower slightly and the middle would lower by half that amount.

 

[GuruUno]

Mine are 170mm as shipped by Specialized.
I just ordered 160mm Praxis OEM cranks.
Another opinion/discussion is at: https://betterride.net/blog/2020/are-your-mtb-cranks-too-long/

 

[GuruUno]

Installed new 160mm cranks, gained 1", ZERO scrapes or pedal strikes, did a 41-mile ride today in Smart Control ((I programmed Ride Length at 40mi., leave 35% battery remaining at end of the ride, duration set for 3 hours, Climb Response set to 250ft., with those settings I got a 35% 'current smart level support'.
When I hit 35 miles, the Smart Control ended and it went into ECO mode, I did the extra 6 miles and returned with 25%.
The bike felt totally different when in ECO as compared to Smart mode. (Smart felt better).
The biggest thing I wish to achieve (now that the pedal issue is addressed with shorter cranks) is to ultimately figure out the maximum distance I can ride without experiencing any range anxiety.
It's understood that a multitude of conditions will affect that (temperature, wind, weight, hills, assistance levels, etc, etc.), but it would be nice to have a known parameter to adhere to for future rides. (not that I would do 50+ mile rides and get into the "danger zone" of running out of power)
Whereas when riding the Vado SL with the extra battery, range anxiety never, ever comes into my mind.
If only Specialized did something "Special" and incorporated the range extender model into all of their lines, it would eliminate all worries about 'will I make it, will I have enough, can I go here, there, can I this or that' without worrying about having enough juice.
Maybe the next models...
(photo below shows the gained clearance from the shorter arms)

 

[mschwett]

Installed new 160mm cranks, gained 1", ZERO scrapes or pedal strikes…

glad that worked for you! but very strange that 10mm yielded an inch, obviously 10mm is more like 3/8” lol.

 

[Axis]

glad that worked for you! but very strange that 10mm yielded an inch, obviously 10mm is more like 3/8” lol.

Maybe when he is riding or sitting on the bike the front fork compresses enough to drop the bb into the danger zone. I have the same bike (4.0 actually), weigh 200 and my fork easily compresses an inch or more just sitting on the bike. I don't have issues with pedal strikes but that is because of racing bmx for decades and riding DH mtb for years and being overly conscious of pedal strikes on rocks/logs.
It's possible that when he measures the pedal height he isn't on the bike and maybe the bike isn't exactly vertical when measuring both crank lengths and that would explain the more than 10mm difference?

 

[CodyDog]

If only Specialized did something "Special" and incorporated the range extender model into all of their lines, it would eliminate all worries about 'will I make it, will I have enough, can I go here, there, can I this or that' without worrying about having enough juice.
Maybe the next models...

Based on the design of the Como (very relaxed riding position) as well as my experience riding my wife's Como, I don't think Specialized was targeting the "extended 50 miler plus" riders. I think it was designed as a easy riding urban ebike for around the town/work. With that being said, I think they intentionally left out the ability to use a range extender battery.

Have yet to find an ebike that does everything!

 

[mschwett]

Based on the design of the Como (very relaxed riding position) as well as my experience riding my wife's Como, I don't think Specialized was targeting the "extended 50 miler plus" riders. I think it was designed as a easy riding urban ebike for around the town/work. With that being said, I think they intentionally left out the ability to use a range extender battery.

Have yet to find an ebike that does everything!

is there an example out there of a “full power” bike with 500+ wh standard battery that has an external extender battery? the ones i’m familiar with are for the lighter systems like SL or X35.

no reason to think it isn’t possible but obviously the cell makeup is different on those larger batteries, and the controller/motor designed around that.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

is there an example out there of a “full power” bike with 500+ wh standard battery that has an external extender battery?

Bosch.

 

[EbikesKeepMeCycling]

Rotate the inboard pedal with your foot backwards then ride. At slow speed, you are almost vertical. Let the initial momentum take you through the corner. (You can repeat the backwards-forward quarter turn crank movement as many times as you like).

Didn't you notice you are the only person to experience such issues?!

Your emphasis on proper cycling technique is wise. You described cornering with inside pedal up perfectly. That an older version of a bike‘s pedals didn’t strike doesn’t matter. Ridden with the basic knowledge you shared and that is widely taught, no bike pedal should strike the pavement or trail. Bicycling has a good recent article that may be worth reading by anyone interested in cornering properly Or getting a refresher: https://www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20026213/how-to-corner-on-a-bike/

 

[GuruUno]

Your emphasis on proper cycling technique is wise. You described cornering with inside pedal up perfectly. That an older version of a bike‘s pedals didn’t strike doesn’t matter. Ridden with the basic knowledge you shared and that is widely taught, no bike pedal should strike the pavement or trail. Bicycling has a good recent article that may be worth reading by anyone interested in cornering properly Or getting a refresher: https://www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20026213/how-to-corner-on-a-bike/

I have replaced both bikes' crank arms (me + wife) with 160mm Praxis cranks.
Zero issues, zero strikes, no mental "GOTTA REMEMBER TO HAVE THAT SIDE UP WHEN TURNING, CAN'T PEDAL THROUGH THE TURN", etc., etc., etc.
I'm sure I could have done 165mm cranks, but then there would ALWAY be a slight chance of a strike.
Additionally, I've acknowledged the ability to have a steadier cadence between 73-82 for the most part (selecting the proper gearing also), and on most recent 3 or 4 30 miles plus rides with nice weather and minimal elevations (1250 or less), and using Smart Control, I usually return with between 48 to 63% battery remaining.
This by far is probably the very best e-bike I've owned.
The "new" refresher.

 

[vado813]

i've had a como 5.0 for a couple years and think its perfect for me but looking at the 2022 como i thinks its a disaster poorly designed. doesn't have the same geometry and doesn't look good for comfortable long rides

 

[jackducan]

I'm here to ask about your first 50 miles, it's difficult to achieve and how long does it take to bike 50 miles? Because a beginner with no bicycle experience at all, a 50-mile ride can be very challenging.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I'm here to ask about your first 50 miles, it's difficult to achieve and how long does it take to bike 50 miles? Because a beginner with no bicycle experience at all, a 50-mile ride can be very challenging.

The OP did not ride 50 miles on a single day at that time (as the thread title might suggest). The thread describes Guru's experiences after 50 miles ridden on the Como in total.

Let me give you my honest answer to your question. It took me as many as five months of frequent (45) e-bike rides to attempt the first 50 mile ride. These rides ranged from very short ones through many 20-30 milers to several 40 mile rides. Necessary to mention all these rides happened in Autumn and early Winter. I was gaining endurance and experience at that time. It was vital to understand how the ride conditions and assistance affected the battery range.

Nowadays, 50 mile is my favourite distance (especially in the warm season) while I actually love riding Metric Centuries and longer distances. However, because of my medical condition, I need fairly more assistance than an average e-biker. Therefore, I always carry a spare battery in the pannier for planned distances longer than 45 miles.

 

[bobf]

I tend to agree with GuruUno.

I do try to corner with inside pedal high, mostly for better balance. But I don't always do it, and sometimes I pedal through a corner. Result has been zero pedal strikes in 60 years on 7 different road bikes. Having a bike where you have to be extra-careful to avoid strikes sounds wrong to me, not to mention dangerous. It should be difficult to make them happen, not difficult to avoid them. Admittedly, gravel or rough surface can be a different story.

My 2c worth is that if you are happy with shorter cranks, great, but otherwise you need wider (hence taller) tires and/or 700C rims to raise the ground clearance. Maybe this would also fix the kick stand.

I wonder, did Specialized choose your tires or did the bike shop?

 

[StuartKuz]

Wow, this discussion, partially about range anxiety is helping me lean heavier into the weight of the upcoming bike purchase. I spend the first bit of a test ride looking for hills near the bike shop, then riding around with and without power assist. For me the arguement- 'a bikes weight doesn't matter, just use the motor to compensate for the weight differnce'- is not where I'm at. I did college with a Lambretta scooter. I want more of a bike experience. A 55lb Gazzele was heavy for me without assistance. So I'm happy to find lighter 46lb bikes like the Yamaha Torc, todays ride, Haro Dual Peak i/O, and the Orbea Urrun. There are always compromises to make, but probably not about weight for me.

 

[mschwett]

Wow, this discussion, partially about range anxiety is helping me lean heavier into the weight of the upcoming bike purchase. I spend the first bit of a test ride looking for hills near the bike shop, then riding around with and without power assist. For me the arguement- 'a bikes weight doesn't matter, just use the motor to compensate for the weight differnce'- is not where I'm at. I did college with a Lambretta scooter. I want more of a bike experience. A 55lb Gazzele was heavy for me without assistance. So I'm happy to find lighter 46lb bikes like the Yamaha Torc, todays ride, Haro Dual Peak i/O, and the Orbea Urrun. There are always compromises to make, but probably not about weight for me.

if you really want light, and don't need full suspension, there are lots of awesome gravel e-bikes in the 28-32lb range that can accomodate tires suitable for everything up to light singletrack.

 

[StuartKuz]

if you really want light, and don't need full suspension, there are lots of awesome gravel e-bikes in the 28-32lb range that can accomodate tires suitable for everything up to light singletrack.

Thanks for the suggestion, but the washboard dirt roads around here make front suspension a necessity. With a $4k budget, I'll have to accept something in the mid weight range, 46ish lbs, based on what's available now.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Orbea Urrun

Light weight - yes.
Low power motor (low torque) but you seem to be happy about that.
Quite a small battery, Range Extender available though (making the combo very attractive).
Irremovable battery: What did you say about your winters and storage?
Could be a good option (perhaps the best) if you have a dealer around.

 

[jackducan]

The OP did not ride 50 miles on a single day at that time (as the thread title might suggest). The thread describes Guru's experiences after 50 miles ridden on the Como in total.

Let me give you my honest answer to your question. It took me as many as five months of frequent (45) e-bike rides to attempt the first 50 mile ride. These rides ranged from very short ones through many 20-30 milers to several 40 mile rides. Necessary to mention all these rides happened in Autumn and early Winter. I was gaining endurance and experience at that time. It was vital to understand how the ride conditions and assistance affected the battery range.

Nowadays, 50 mile is my favourite distance (especially in the warm season) while I actually love riding Metric Centuries and longer distances. However, because of my medical condition, I need fairly more assistance than an average e-biker. Therefore, I always carry a spare battery in the pannier for planned distances longer than 45 miles.

Thanks for your reply. I also read some articles about how long it takes to bike 50 miles on the web. They mention factors that affect cycling 50 miles, I think these tips can increase your cycling speed.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thanks for your reply. I also read some articles about how long it takes to bike 50 miles on the web. They mention factors that affect cycling 50 miles, I think these tips can increase your cycling speed.

Thank you for quoting an interesting article, Jack!
It is different to us, e-bikers. Yes, you need proper nutrition, and there are many factors as discussed in the article but what really matters is experience, allowing you to make the ride still on the battery and not getting overly exhausted.

The article presents this table for traditional cycling:

The electric motor assistance is a game changer. In April 2020, I was a 59-yo male, overweight, with just 7 months of e-biking experience. I made a 50 mile ride in 3:15 hrs. A man with ailing legs being an "Advanced" rider? Not. It was the motor of my "full power" Vado to give me the handicap. Another 50-mi ride on a Vado SL (that is half power of the big Vado) took me 3:30 hrs. Still an "Advanced" rider? I do not think so!

The electric assistance can place us in the elite of traditional cyclists. Last Autumn, I set off for a gravel group ride with my Club. ("Gravel cycling" actually means riding in the forest in my area). The group involved both competing and advanced riders. We rode for 104.5 km (64.9 mi) in 4 hours less 19 seconds (so called "racing tempo")! For me, that was only possible because of the electric assistance, and it was not a single battery ride...

Of course, a novice shall not start with a 50 miler. It is, however, possible after several months of frequent, longer and longer rides. It took me only several months to achieve a Metric Century (62 mi). Once you made a 50-miler and then a Metric Century, you realize it was not that difficult anyway...