Hi can anyone please help me I’ve bought a new 500w battery fit it to my bike but it’s not showing the proper range for a new battery and my older battery is showing the same problem I’ve been to two bike shops and they say cycle for a few miles and it should sync but it’s not what can I do
Moustache Friday 27 2017 model
- Thread starter Stokiebri
- Start date
indianajo
Well-Known Member
I'd say discharge to 15% then recharge to 100% twice. If the battery doesn't straighen up in that time, it is likely too old. Buy a voltmeter to be more accurate than the stupid 5 rectangle display on your bike. Charge % tables are on lunacycle.com, click a battery of proper voltage and then follow the link to the specification.
There is a tendency in industry to build the spare parts at the same time as the product, then store them until some **** buys it. Works on steel parts, not on electronic connectors batteries or electrolytic capacitors. Storage on the shelf wears them out, too.
I bought a new LiIon battery for my 2015 cell phone last year from batteries.com. It had 1/3 the operate time of the phone when it was new. When it went to 1/6 or 6 hours without the charger, I bought a new phone. From ***** #^$*!
Sounds as if that is what happened to you. If you can't adapt a generic battery from a reputable vendor, buy a new bike. In the US I found a lunacycle battery to be as advertised. In Canada people like grin technology. In Hong Kong people like Em3ev
There are battery repack services in LA, LV, Ohio. See the thread under maintenance forum. You have to haul the battery there in your car, you are not allowed to ship it. Hazmat shipper certification takes thousands of dollars plus business liability insurance.
If you live in ***** there are many more services.
I wouldn't try to repack the battery myself. Besides setting your workshop on fire if your weld penetrates too much, many of the cells for sale to individuals are as fraudulant as the batteries I bought from amazon & ebay vendors. A recent poster was proposing to buy flashlight grade 18650 cells. Fine if you want to go 3 mph max with 3 stacks of 14 cells, or haul around an 80 lb battery with 50 stacks.
There is a tendency in industry to build the spare parts at the same time as the product, then store them until some **** buys it. Works on steel parts, not on electronic connectors batteries or electrolytic capacitors. Storage on the shelf wears them out, too.
I bought a new LiIon battery for my 2015 cell phone last year from batteries.com. It had 1/3 the operate time of the phone when it was new. When it went to 1/6 or 6 hours without the charger, I bought a new phone. From ***** #^$*!
Sounds as if that is what happened to you. If you can't adapt a generic battery from a reputable vendor, buy a new bike. In the US I found a lunacycle battery to be as advertised. In Canada people like grin technology. In Hong Kong people like Em3ev
There are battery repack services in LA, LV, Ohio. See the thread under maintenance forum. You have to haul the battery there in your car, you are not allowed to ship it. Hazmat shipper certification takes thousands of dollars plus business liability insurance.
If you live in ***** there are many more services.
I wouldn't try to repack the battery myself. Besides setting your workshop on fire if your weld penetrates too much, many of the cells for sale to individuals are as fraudulant as the batteries I bought from amazon & ebay vendors. A recent poster was proposing to buy flashlight grade 18650 cells. Fine if you want to go 3 mph max with 3 stacks of 14 cells, or haul around an 80 lb battery with 50 stacks.
Last edited:
indianajo
Well-Known Member
The word "test" is subject to interpretation. Mostly on the side of sleaze, IMHO.
A watthour check on a 48 v 500 wh battery, is to load it down with resistors to draw 4.8 amps. Say, a stack of two 5 ohm 225 w resistors to make a 10 ohm load. Put a voltmeter in parallel. Start at full charge and check how long it will support the 4.8 amps until the voltage drops to 10%. Should be over 9 hours. You don't want to test to 0% or 10 hours. I can't see anybody doing that test.
I worked for a truck line a year that seriously wanted their trucks to start on cold mornings. They had a resistor load in a box with a meter that would draw 1000 amps at 9.5 v. If the battery failed that test, we changed batteries even in good weather. The equivalent on a bike battery is a 50 A load test if your battery is rated to that discharge rate.
A watthour check on a 48 v 500 wh battery, is to load it down with resistors to draw 4.8 amps. Say, a stack of two 5 ohm 225 w resistors to make a 10 ohm load. Put a voltmeter in parallel. Start at full charge and check how long it will support the 4.8 amps until the voltage drops to 10%. Should be over 9 hours. You don't want to test to 0% or 10 hours. I can't see anybody doing that test.
I worked for a truck line a year that seriously wanted their trucks to start on cold mornings. They had a resistor load in a box with a meter that would draw 1000 amps at 9.5 v. If the battery failed that test, we changed batteries even in good weather. The equivalent on a bike battery is a 50 A load test if your battery is rated to that discharge rate.
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