Mounting a bench mount stand to the wall

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psychoanalyst

Member
Hello All,

Not strictly an eBike question, but wasn't sure where to post this. Please do let me know if there is different forum better suited to this question.

I got sick and tired of not having a dedicated stand for fixes on my Stromer ST1. Simple things like fixing flats, especially on the rear tire became a massive massive pain. And flipping the bike to make the tube replacements easier pretty much meant that I also had to perform a brake bleed. So, long story short, I just purchased the Park Tools bench mount stand from my friend who gave me a sweet deal on it. However, I wonder if I could install it on the wall instead (I know I know that there is a dedicated wall mount stand, but given the price of the wall mount and what I got the bench mount for, my choice was made) ?

I made some plans which I have outlined below. And I am looking for advice on whether or not my plans make sense. My main questions:

1. What "plank" size would you recommend? I need need at least 5-6" on the flat surface where the stand would be mounted. So quite a few choices: 2x6, 2x8, 4x6, 4x8 etc. Would all of these work? Any reason why a 2x6 won't be sufficient for the job?
2. Recommended method of attaching the "plank" to the wall studs: I can use really long fasteners or I could go with corner brackets. Any advantages of one over the other?

Many thanks!

Avi

1661122625340.png
 
Your idea would work but you would need at least a 2X8 (preferably a 2X10) between the studs with at least 3 screws or lags into each stud. Heavy duty deck screws or 1/4" lags would work. Then screw 3 or 4 short pieces of 2X8 on top of each other to the plank to "build out" a mounting surface for the Park stand. The wider plank will distribute the load better against the sheetrock. Dry wall can compact or crush over time with the weight of the bike being repeatedly added & removed. Using a 4X6 won't provide enough surface contact to prevent this. Keep in mind, it isn't just the weight of the bike to consider but also any torque or leverage you apply while working on the bike.

I have the Park PRS-4W wall mount version but if I wanted to convert the bench mount model, I would do it this way:

Get a piece of 4X4 cut to whatever working height you like. Rest one end on the floor and lag bolt it vertically to a single stud using 4 - 1/4" lags. Next cut an 8" piece of 2X8 and lag bolt it to the top of the 4X4. Countersink the lags and then bolt the Park stand to the 2X8. It effect, you're making a mini, one legged, work bench. This way, the weight is supported by the floor, not the wall.
 
6zfshdb said:
Your idea would work but you would need at least a 2X8 (preferably a 2X10) between the studs with at least 3 screws or lags into each stud. Heavy duty deck screws or 1/4" lags would work. Then screw 3 or 4 short pieces of 2X8 on top of each other to the plank to "build out" a mounting surface for the Park stand. The wider plank will distribute the load better against the sheetrock. Dry wall can compact or crush over time with the weight of the bike being repeatedly added & removed. Using a 4X6 won't provide enough surface contact to prevent this. Keep in mind, it isn't just the weight of the bike to consider but also any torque or leverage you apply while working on the bike.

I have the Park PRS-4W wall mount version but if I wanted to convert the bench mount model, I would do it this way:

Get a piece of 4X4 cut to whatever working height you like. Rest one end on the floor and lag bolt it vertically to a single stud using 4 - 1/4" lags. Next cut an 8" piece of 2X8 and lag bolt it to the top of the 4X4. Countersink the lags and then bolt the Park stand to the 2X8. It effect, you're making a mini, one legged, work bench. This way, the weight is supported by the floor, not the wall.
Click to expand...
I really like this idea. Thanks so much for the details.

Ideally the PRS-4W is what I would have wanted as well. But it's too expensive to buy new and my friend only had the bench mount.

If I can get the PRS at a more reasonable cost I could potentially return the bench mount to my friend.

Curious: how do you attach the PRS-4W to the wall ?

Avi
 
I have the PRS-4W bolted to the leg of my workbench. The clamp easily removes when not in use:

P1090699a.jpg
P1090700a.jpg


If I wanted to attach it to a wall, I would screw an 18" wide by 48" high piece of 3/4" plywood between two studs with the plywood resting on the floor. Then lag the 4W to the plywood.

The plywood Idea could also be used with the bench mount instead of the 4X4. Just screw pieces of 8X8 to the plywood to build out a platform for the 4W. Either way, the load rests on the floor, not the wall.
 
I really this. Let me know if you spot something wrong with this plan.

Do I really need to counter-sink the 1 (or 2) lag screws that attach the 2x8 to the 4x4 post? I don't have paddle bits (which I can easily get), but I wonder if I really need it. The schematic is not to scale obviously, but I feel I will have the room with a 2x8 board.

But I wonder if I should go with a 2x6 instead to minimize any overhang and thus torque the weight would apply on the board.


1661199263695.png
 
psychoanalyst said:
I really this. Let me know if you spot something wrong with this plan.

Do I really need to counter-sink the 1 (or 2) lag screws that attach the 2x8 to the 4x4 post? I don't have paddle bits (which I can easily get), but I wonder if I really need it. The schematic is not to scale obviously, but I feel I will have the room with a 2x8 board.

But I wonder if I should go with a 2x6 instead to minimize any overhang and thus torque the weight would apply on the board.


View attachment 132882
Click to expand...
No countersink would be necessary if you extend the 2X8 beyond the 4X4 as shown in your diagram. I wouldn't extend it more than 4" though.

You will need 6" SPAX screws to fasten the 4X4 to the wall. 4" will be too short.

BTW: Make sure the wood grain of the 2X8 is perpendicular to the wall. Otherwise, it could snap in half if too much weight is applied.
 
6zfshdb said:
No countersink would be necessary if you extend the 2X8 beyond the 4X4 as shown in your diagram. I wouldn't extend it more than 4" though.

You will need 6" SPAX screws to fasten the 4X4 to the wall. 4" will be too short.

BTW: Make sure the wood grain of the 2X8 is perpendicular to the wall. Otherwise, it could snap in half if too much weight is applied.
Click to expand...
I am leaning towards using a 2x6 to minimize overhang/torque, in which case, I would need to countersink.
 
I just got all the raw materials from Home Depot. Was lucky that they had the 2x6 and 4x4 as part of their scrap lot, so that worked out super cheap. The 2x6 will be a bit tight, but I think it's workable.

What height of the 4x4 post do you recommend? The height of my bench is 3ft....so I am currently thinking 3 ft height on the 4x4 would be good....add ~2" from the 2x6 and a further ~10 in from the mount itself, gives me 4 ft of total height.
 
psychoanalyst said:
I just got all the raw materials from Home Depot. Was lucky that they had the 2x6 and 4x4 as part of their scrap lot, so that worked out super cheap. The 2x6 will be a bit tight, but I think it's workable.

What height of the 4x4 post do you recommend? The height of my bench is 3ft....so I am currently thinking 3 ft height on the 4x4 would be good....add ~2" from the 2x6 and a further ~10 in from the mount itself, gives me 4 ft of total height.
Click to expand...
Your measurements sound about right. A 4ft clamp height will allow you to pivot the bike upside down if needed.

I have my PRS-4W mounted at 3ft since I rarely work on the bike upside down. It also makes it easier to lift the bike onto the clamp. The 3ft height lets me do most of my maintenance work while sitting on a low stool. I'm at the age where lifting and standing for long periods isn't practical. When I need to do inverted work, I use the PCS-10 work stand.
 
6zfshdb said:
Your measurements sound about right. A 4ft clamp height will allow you to pivot the bike upside down if needed.

I have my PRS-4W mounted at 3ft since I rarely work on the bike upside down. It also makes it easier to lift the bike onto the clamp. The 3ft height lets me do most of my maintenance work while sitting on a low stool. I'm at the age where lifting and standing for long periods isn't practical. When I need to do inverted work, I use the PCS-10 work stand.
Click to expand...
I am going to look into this further. 4ft sounds right, but at the same time I don't do extensive repairs...so don't anticipate needing to flip the bike upside down. I do need the tilt function for when I am doing bleeds....if 3ft gets me that, that should be enough. My stromer ST1 ways around 60 lbs, so I don't want to be lifting it too much
 
psychoanalyst said:
I am going to look into this further. 4ft sounds right, but at the same time I don't do extensive repairs...so don't anticipate needing to flip the bike upside down. I do need the tilt function for when I am doing bleeds....if 3ft gets me that, that should be enough. My stromer ST1 ways around 60 lbs, so I don't want to be lifting it too much
Click to expand...
Here's a trick I learned for lifting these heavy bikes onto a stand. lift just the front wheel and set it on a milk crate or low stool. Then attach the clamp, remove the crate and pivot the rear wheel off the ground. This works easier with a lower clamp height though. It would be more difficult with it 4 or more feet off the ground.
 
6zfshdb said:
Here's a trick I learned for lifting these heavy bikes onto a stand. lift just the front wheel and set it on a milk crate or low stool. Then attach the clamp, remove the crate and pivot the rear wheel off the ground. This works easier with a lower clamp height though. It would be more difficult with it 4 or more feet off the ground.
Click to expand...
Interestingly, that is how I do bleeds. I raise the lighter front wheel and place it on a Home Depot bucket turned upside down to give me the height differential I need for the bleed :)
 
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