Mongoose Full suspension Mt. Bike with custom made talll handle bars and 48v 1000w DIY kit

Cody196

Member
Hello, I am new to the website, and I would like to show off my new Electric Bike I custom built.

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Wow. Where to begin.

Do you stand the whole time? On those "pedals"? The fan and speakers are a nice touch.
 
nope i sit straight up like a harley, lol. also i have an issue, my front wheel no matter how tight i get it, it keeps popping out the forks when i hit the throttle.
 
The dropouts on those suspension forks are very porous metal and break easy, do you have a closeup of the washer nut on the axle?
 
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Umm... Two 12 volt batteries that don't actually seem to be connected to anything? I can see two red terminals, so it looks like two maybe 12 ah SLA batteries. In series you would have 24 volts, but not for very long.

The squared off sides of the axle are supposed to go tightly into the drop outs. That is floating in the the dropout, so maybe it's a floating axle? The way that is sitting, why would you think it would stay in place?

It's a joke, right?
 
I plan to weld the axle to the fork where the drop out is si it dont slip out, and since the bikes weight will be pulling the axle the other way it would be all pressured on the weld spot, just the motor kicking in should hopefully hold. and btw the fork i believe is steel. And i got 4 SLA batteries wired in series right now, 2x 12v 7ah and 2x 12v 12ah batteries
 
I plan to weld the axle to the fork where the drop out is si it dont slip out, and since the bikes weight will be pulling the axle the other way it would be all pressured on the weld spot, just the motor kicking in should hopefully hold. and btw the fork i believe is steel. And i got 4 SLA batteries wired in series right now, 2x 12v 7ah and 2x 12v 12ah batteries
The axle probably has high carbon content and will crack with stress. Normally to consider a material of 'weldable quality' carbon content needs to be < .35%. IMO tacking the axle will not solve your issue.

Cheers!
 
Most battery chemistries lend themselves to series and parallel connection. It is important to use the same battery type with equal voltage and capacity (Ah) and never to mix different makes and sizes. A weaker cell would cause an imbalance. This is especially critical in a series configuration because a battery is only as strong as the weakest link in the chain. An analogy is a chain in which the links represent the cells of a battery connected in series (Figure 1).

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/serial_and_parallel_battery_configurations

So mixing 7ah and 12 ah is a bad idea. I would look for 4 12ah or build a battery with lithium like people do on YouTube.
 
If you have weld capability, and it's steel, you can probably make 2 torque arms and still use the axle nuts. Might be hard to change a tire otherwise.

Is that rear rack on a hinge, or does it just float around?
 
Ok, good pic,the dropouts are no good for that axle,even if you hodge podge it to work-it may snap when you dont want it to. there are plenty of cheap steel forks with 10mm dropouts and you can use torque arms on a rigid fork,just run 15-20 lbs of air in a wide ish tire and it will give you better suspension than that fork. goin over the front of the bike is the last thing you want.
 
If you have weld capability, and it's steel, you can probably make 2 torque arms and still use the axle nuts. Might be hard to change a tire otherwise.

Is that rear rack on a hinge, or does it just float around?
its on two bars that clamp to back wheel rod. have issues with it breaking so im gonig to weld it to side arm when i get chance and add more support, so i have passengers
 
Ok so the welding process was completed, it is running very good so far, i had fixed my brakes so now i got some brakes a bicycle helmet, and about 5 miles worth of range per charge. because of 2x 12v 7ah and 2x 12v 12ah batteries in a pack.
 
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