Mid-Drive 700c Long Ranger ?

This is a (now not so ) secret project. We will have the bike in stock for sale in a couple of weeks. Not on the site yet. Here is a sneak peek.

City Commuter, full featured (fenders, lights rack, quad piston hydraulic brakes, carbon handlebar, carbon seatpost, etc), ~50 lbs. 5speed IGH, belt drive Bafang m600. Rigid carbon fork. Priced at $3299 all in.

Optional upgrades
1. Electronic IGH +$300
2. Dual battery On frame - depends on size of battery (600-800).
I'll take a look .
 
I see people still believe in the marketing crap. How comes many R&M e-bikes come with 2x500 Wh battery and there are not too many users who can make 100 miles on them on a single ride?
 
I think Timpo's suggestions are good. I'm curious, why is 700c so important? Why won't 27.5 do?

I think the new Vado SL would be a good choice. Despite the comments that if you turn off the motor you get unlimited range I have found the Mahle motor that Specialized uses in their SL models to be very efficient. I have a Creo and I ride with it in Eco almost all of the time. So the motor is on the entire time I'm riding and I regularly get an extrapolated range of 75+ miles. On Thursday I rode 100.5 km's or 62 miles, that included 1,000 metres of climbing and I still finished the ride with 33% battery remaining. I could have easily gone 75 miles had I continued my ride.

With a range extender you likely would get to 100 miles. Maybe the range on the Vado SL would be a bit less despite using the same motor and battery as you would be on a slightly heavier bike and a more upright position so maybe a bit less efficient. But given my experience with the Creo I think the Vado SL could meet your criteria. It all depends upon factors such as where you ride, elevation, wind, your weight, riding ability, etc …… But it might tick all the boxes for you.
 
Geez, after the comments in this thread I think I'll have to attempt a 100 mile ride this summer on my Creo and see when the battery runs out.
You promise not to ride in the aero position? :D What about the panniers, which are essential to the commuting?
 
I think Timpo's suggestions are good. I'm curious, why is 700c so important? Why won't 27.5 do?

I think the new Vado SL would be a good choice. Despite the comments that if you turn off the motor you get unlimited range I have found the Mahle motor that Specialized uses in their SL models to be very efficient. I have a Creo and I ride with it in Eco almost all of the time. So the motor is on the entire time I'm riding and I regularly get an extrapolated range of 75+ miles. On Thursday I rode 100.5 km's or 62 miles, that included 1,000 metres of climbing and I still finished the ride with 33% battery remaining. I could have easily gone 75 miles had I continued my ride.

With a range extender you likely would get to 100 miles. Maybe the range on the Vado SL would be a bit less despite using the same motor and battery as you would be on a slightly heavier bike and a more upright position so maybe a bit less efficient. But given my experience with the Creo I think the Vado SL could meet your criteria. It all depends upon factors such as where you ride, elevation, wind, your weight, riding ability, etc …… But it might tick all the boxes for you.

Our very own Browneye put it best ; "700c wheels are the shiznit."
 
Captain Slow how fully do you charge your battery prior to a ride? I just saw a comment on the Gain forum about someone wondering why his total range had decreased after having used his bike for about 1,500 miles. If you constantly charge to 100% and use the entire battery (although it seems like you've got about 33% left) it's going to substantially decrease the lifespan of the battery, which I'm sure isn't cheap to replace. If you have the means that isn't an issue, but if you're trying to extend the battery's lifespan it makes a very noticeable difference. That's not a ding against Mahle or Specialized, it's just the nature of lithium batteries and applies to every manufacturer. If you do try for a maximum ride it would be interesting to see how far you get and the charge levels prior to and after the ride.
 
You promise not to ride in the aero position? :D What about the panniers, which are essential to the commuting?
I don't have aero bars on my bike, but yes the position on the Creo is more aggressive and aero than a Vado. But that's why I wanted a Creo, it's the only position I ride in on the bike because my choices are to put my hands on top of the bars or ride in the drops. I find riding in the drops gets kind of tiring so I'm on the top part of the bar 99% of the time. I don't have a rack and panniers on my Creo and don't intend to put them on. If I want to carry that much on a ride then I have a different bike for that.
 
Solom01 - When I finish a ride, I typically do not charge the battery and leave it at whatever charge is left. Typically that's roughly 50% to 75%, so the battery sits like that the majority of the time and then I charge it right before I go for a ride. It generally does not take long to top up the battery and it almost always goes to 100%. I've decided that I want to have a fully charged battery when I go for a ride and I realize that might shorten the life.

I decided to take other measures, such as described above to help the battery last longer. One thing I've noticed is that the way the Mission Control software counts charge cycles must go by how many Ah are put in each time. It tells me that I've used 10 charge cycles, but I've charged the battery many more times than that. So I'm guessing (not tested) that if I only charge 33% of the battery it only counts that as 1/3 of a charge cycle.

If the software counts charge cycles this way then I can't see that I'm going to use more than say 50 charge cycles a year at the absolute max, and it would probably be more in the range of 30 something. But let's call it 50. If I get say 400 charge cycles out of the battery and it only lasts 8 years I'm fine with paying for a replacement after 8 years of significant use. So far in those 10 charge cycles I've ridden the bike between 1,200 and 1,300 km's. So 400 charge cycles takes me over 50,000 km's on the original battery.

If it ends up being a lot less like say 30,000 km's then oh well.

Actually come to think of it, after that much use I'm sure technology will have improved to the point where I'll buy something new and at that point.
 
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