Hydraulic brakes

[m@Robertson]

I bought that mine (Tektro E715) from AliExpress and they're genuine.

I still wouldn't trust it. I buy lots of stuff from Ali so I am not against the platform. If Tektro closed down all retail shipments months ago, and is going full speed ahead solely on existing manufacturer orders, and this is expected to continue for months... excepting some one-off unique situation, that leaves the only supply source to be product exiting the back door of a manufacturer who has excess and sells it to a 3rd party. In this environment thats got to be a short list only getting shorter.

I bought a set of BB7 calipers on Ali a couple of years ago that were fakes. They did look genuine with decals and all but there were a couple of giveaways only seen when my LBS lined up a real set side by side.

 

[TNC]

m@Robertson, the Tektro HD-E725's use the more common 1.8mm rotors. I was able to snag a set of HD-M745 4-piston units front and rear this spring from a vendor who still had a set in stock. They also use 1.8mm rotors. I know the HD-M750's and HD-E730's use the 2.3mm rotors. I've always used Hayes and Avid single-piston brakesets with no real issue on 8" rotors. My Santa Cruz Nomad/BBSHD actually started challenging my fingers and wrists a bit more because of the weight of the bike and the sheer power while mountain biking. These 4-piston units have really eased the effort at the levers for long rides.

 

[m@Robertson]

m@Robertson, the Tektro HD-E725's use the more common 1.8mm rotors. I was able to snag a set of HD-M745 4-piston units front and rear this spring from a vendor who still had a set in stock. They also use 1.8mm rotors. I know the HD-M750's and HD-E730's use the 2.3mm rotors. I've always used Hayes and Avid single-piston brakesets with no real issue on 8" rotors. My Santa Cruz Nomad/BBSHD actually started challenging my fingers and wrists a bit more because of the weight of the bike and the sheer power while mountain biking. These 4-piston units have really eased the effort at the levers for long rides.

yeah the only Tektro brakesets that use the thicker rotors are the ones that specifically say so on their web site.

I like the Maguras because - if you know where to buy them (from local German retailers) - they are very reasonably priced, and 4 piston and have cutoffs. Plus they use thicker rotors and are capable of handling the thickest ones on the market, which are also cheap. I just bought two more Type 17s today for $22.99 each. Put my winter knobbies back on my Surly for a camping trip and just put two new rotors on from my stockpile rather than swap the ones on my street wheels.

 

[TNC]

yeah the only Tektro brakesets that use the thicker rotors are the ones that specifically say so on their web site.

I like the Maguras because - if you know where to buy them (from local German retailers) - they are very reasonably priced, and 4 piston and have cutoffs. Plus they use thicker rotors and are capable of handling the thickest ones on the market, which are also cheap. I just bought two more Type 17s today for $22.99 each. Put my winter knobbies back on my Surly for a camping trip and just put two new rotors on from my stockpile rather than swap the ones on my street wheels.

On brake sensors/cutoffs, I was a fairly strong proponent of them...or at least one...when I started mountain biking. I think I made this assessment out of unfamiliarity with the BBSXX system. I'm a long time MTB'er, but this was my first exposure to a mid-drive MTB conversion. These things haul ass, and off road can be a handful. I programmed the motor to deliver smooth, predictable power. So, the more I've ridden this bike and installed the 4-piston brakes, I've removed the brake sensors. I've come to get more comfortable with the power capability of this motor on the trail. I like a little overrun when you stop pedaling. I now like keeping the motor "alive" while using the powerful brakes in corners or up to obstacles. There is never any lag in the delivery with this method and not having a brake cutoff kill the motor keeps the bike lively and responsive. I'm a fair mountain biker and am used to a dirt motorcycle also, so this feels more natural now that I've gotten accustomed to the capability of this motor. I'm loving it.

 

[SurfinEbike]

On brake sensors/cutoffs, I was a fairly strong proponent of them...or at least one...when I started mountain biking. I think I made this assessment out of unfamiliarity with the BBSXX system. I'm a long time MTB'er, but this was my first exposure to a mid-drive MTB conversion. These things haul ass, and off road can be a handful. I programmed the motor to deliver smooth, predictable power. So, the more I've ridden this bike and installed the 4-piston brakes, I've removed the brake sensors. I've come to get more comfortable with the power capability of this motor on the trail. I like a little overrun when you stop pedaling. I now like keeping the motor "alive" while using the powerful brakes in corners or up to obstacles. There is never any lag in the delivery with this method and not having a brake cutoff kill the motor keeps the bike lively and responsive. I'm a fair mountain biker and am used to a dirt motorcycle also, so this feels more natural now that I've gotten accustomed to the capability of this motor. I'm loving it.

I think I will try that, sounds like a good idea.

 

[m@Robertson]

.., I've removed the brake sensors. ...

I've sort of come to a similar place with cutoffs, but have come back to 'if you can add them do so'. Its a stated position by some that your brakes should always be powerful enough to overpower your motor, and the MT5e's I use are certainly that. I do have two bikes that have just MT5's on and the world hasn't ended. One of them is my 2500w Cyc-powered Guerilla Gravity enduro. Big power and no cutoffs, but it also has no PAS and I modulate power delivery with my thumb throttle. USUALLY when a bike only has throttle people will pipe up and say they don't need cutoffs and there is some merit to that argument.

But just last weekend I was reminded of why cutoffs are a good idea. I had my Surly BFD out after being mothballed for most of the summer and came to a stop after a test ride as I rode up my driveway to my closed garage door. I lifted off the brakes after my stop and lurched straight at the door. I was able to engage the brakes and stop the bike. I carefully lifted and lurched fwd again. It turns out I had a sticky throttle that was still delivering about 20% power. My cutoffs - for the first time in a long time - were doing their job. Without cutoffs I would possibly have dented my garage door or at the least put a 4.8" tire print on its nice white face.

So... not as critical as I once thought they were. But not useless either.