I have stock OEM 2 piston brakes on my Biktrik bikes. The front brakes have excellent braking power. The back brakes came out of the box new with very little stopping power and the lever was mushy. This is on two identical bikes. I took them to a bike shop. They replaced rotors, pads and blend brakes. The back brakes are better and the brake levers feel like there is a lot of pressure in the system. I bedded the brakes but they still don't have the stopping power of the front brakes. I didn't see any fluid leaking. Is there anything I can do short of putting on completely new back brakes?
Hydraulic Brake Question
- Thread starter traderfjp
- Start date
scrambler
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Bay Area, CA
When you say they don't have as much braking power, do you have experience with comparing front and rear brakes and your judgment is based on that, or is that you first experience with it?
I am asking because front brakes always feel and are a lot more powerful than rear brakes, due to the fact that when you use the front brake the bike plunges forward and that increases the pressure of the front wheel onto the ground, making it grab the ground harder and therefore all the braking power goes into stopping the bike.
On the other hand, when using the rear brake, there is no such effect, and this is why braking hard on the rear will just cause the wheel to slide (loosing friction) rather than stopping the bike.
I am asking because front brakes always feel and are a lot more powerful than rear brakes, due to the fact that when you use the front brake the bike plunges forward and that increases the pressure of the front wheel onto the ground, making it grab the ground harder and therefore all the braking power goes into stopping the bike.
On the other hand, when using the rear brake, there is no such effect, and this is why braking hard on the rear will just cause the wheel to slide (loosing friction) rather than stopping the bike.
I appreciate the responses. I took the pads out sanded them, then roughed up the rotor. Next, I cleaned everything with alcohol and added one layer of Gorilla Tape to the back of each brake pad. Now my back brakes are almost as good as my front brakes. I went on to an owners group for my bike and I discovered that what I was experiencing was not normal.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
that tape may cause issues if you do long braking the heat transfer may be screwed up or the tape may melt with heat snd cause issues.
We shall see. If I can find a better solution I will implement it. For now it's the tape. Thanks
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
you want to get the pads father out here is how you do it. take the pads out and carefully squeeze the lever a little you want the pistons to come out a tiny bit and stay. every brake is different you can test it till they just stay out a bit then put the pads back in and check the feel. you just need to be careful and not squeeze too much. but the best solution is the bleed them so the pads are right. or if it continues to be an issue you can get a thicker rotor like a margua.
I have new pads and a new rotor but a thicker rotor sounds like a great idea.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
when I had to replace mien went to the local store and they had Magura and Shimano the Magura were a little less but I found they were thicker. with my Shimano bakes there is very little gap there so it they rubbed bit but for most setups it would be fine.
Handlebars
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
Have you tried adjusting the little screw that is inside the brake lever assembly?
Handlebars
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I wouldn't even think of putting on new brakes until more familiar with the system and trying some things by yourself to get them adjusted. To me the test pass is if you can lock up the rear wheel and do a little skid using only the rear brake. Even going at pretty low speed you should be able to lock it up.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
that just movs the lever in and out for feel not for braking adjustability.
Handlebars
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I do not believe that is always the case. "Yes" to this part:"that just movs the lever in and out".
If it's adjusted too far in it may not stop the bike well.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
well it gives you more room to pull but it does not fix the issue. that screw is to adjust ever position not to adjust brake throw. only the top end hydraulic off road brakes may let you adjust the pad position its a pretty rare thing.
Handlebars
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
It sure seems to me that if it's so close that I haven't got enough space to squeeze much....it doesn't work well.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
ya it has tradeoffs. I move it out so my finger rests over the lever but when I squeeze my other fingers not get hit by the lever. if they do then its time to check the pads or bleed the system.
Handlebars
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
My brakes leak at the lever, and that is how I found that it seems as if positioning of the lever has an effect on braking...if I position the lever too close, so it offers an easy grab, the brake seems to lose stopping power. As the fluid level reduces, it seems I need the lever further out get the same stopping power. I need to just replace the whole brakes system, but they still function well. I add fluid and burp them very often. Spring coming, so replacement time is soon.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
ya that soudns like it needs replaced it does nto work like that normally. the lever just pivots usually.
justforfun
Active Member
My hydraulic brakes will lock the wheels so I assume they work as designed.
You didn't purchase the extra cost ABS option for your brakes?
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