How do I select a correct replacement motor controller?

[rotarypower101]

Possible anyone can identify this controller visually, or from the clues included with this post?

There seems to be NO marking or indicators on the controller as to the make or manufacture or even critical details to assess compatibility with a suitable replacement.

Where can I get direct replacement parts for a "safecastle breeze pro"?

Think I have a bad controller (tests open on each motor output and battery output with fluke multimeter) based on this video.

Does anyone know where to get help/assistance selecting a replacement controller for a 750W bike with bafang motor with 48V pack?

This is the manual specs/controller schematic if at all helpful.

I think it has the black SM connector plugs for the signal and low power?

It runs a a 6 wire sensored output and bullets for the bafang motor. (do I need to get a controller explicitly for this type of hub motor) Is there any difference between brands and protocols?

And this type of UI mode controller. How do I select a compatible motor controller with this UI mode controller? Is it possible to update to a info/data rich replacement if a direct plug and play substitute cannot be found? (Its for my aunt Im trying to help, so not opposed to upgrading the display if I can do it economically)

How do I select a controller that works with the existing sensors and UI? (is there any standardization I can test of the components)

What details do I need to confirm or get right to make sure a replacement controller is compatible?

Anything I can check, confirm or photo and report back here to get better help?

I am able to change out connectors if required, but would love to get a direct replacement if possible. Or at least one that was UNAMBIGUOUS with color codes and schematics to match.

Anything I should be aware of that might cause this to fail rapidly even if it is the controller that has failed, and the controller is replaced? Anything to check first before proceeding with a replacement?


Would REALLY love some clear decisive help and advice how to proceed and finish this repair project .

Thanks for any help!

 

[indianajo]

You need to purchase a controller with connectors like yours. If you know your motor is 48 v 750 watt, buy an equivalent rated controller. I see no possibility of matching the old display to anything, unless you buy controller from OEM. I don't know what a UI is. Buy a controller with a display at the same time. Or learn to live without a display. That means in my case, no PAS hookup, or control of PAS levels. I buy controllers before the old one fails off ebay and during Shanghai shutdown there weren't any. They are back, but ones with a PAS pickup plug or torque input plug do not show up on ebay. Throttle only, on the scooter compatible controllers I buy. 90% of controllers on ebay have the plugs only labeled in chinese, so I don't buy those. There is a guy in Texas that sells controllers with an english labeled picture. Screen shot save that picture the day you buy, there is no such picture or labels on the actually controller when it arrives. Usually scooter controllers are reverse rotation and require exercising the "learning" plugs to reverse the rotation. Since unplugging & storing the battery in the winter usually resets the controller to reverse rotation, usually I just reverse two motor phase wires and two hall effect pickup wires.
I refuse to send my debit card number to ***** to be hacked. One can buy a throw away "credit" card for use in ***** but that ties up a certain amount of money indefinitely. The requirement of aliexp for my birthdate means I do not deal with them. I will not give that to facebook or x either. They want my birthdate, they can pay a credit bureau for it. I'm not giving it away. It was the only security code for my retirement account for decades. My bank still requires birthdate everytime I call them.
Actually if you know FETs are failed, it is easier to change them than find a matching controller. warning, wear safety glasses. Desoldering solder could splash in your eye. Of course disconnect battery wire before work on the PCB. Depletion mode nfets are used usually, available from newark, digikey, mouser etc. Check the heat sink compound and insulator to the heat sink bar, many cheap controllers have none. Which is why the old ones blew. That aluminum case is a nice decoration, but my first controller (ebikeling) there was no connection between the heat tabs of the fets and the case. I added one and it lasted 4 1/2 years ~9000 miles. New fets have a diode drop between source and drain and no connection gate to drain. Make sure Vsd is >100 v. 600 v fets are probably excessive. TO220 case is probably fine, TO246 or TO3p may not fit. You will probably find a bad nfet has blown a fuse internal to the controller.
What killed the ebikeling controller eventually the pas pickup lost connection between the wire from the connector and the IC, for which no datasheet is available to label the pins.
While you are at it, replace the leaky 470 uf 65 v capacitors with industrial grade that doesn't leak. Mark plus on the board with a sharpie before disconnecting. If you put the new ones in backwards they blow the top open. I buy electrolytic capacitors from panasonic, rubicon, nichicon, vishay, or kemet. 80 v is a little more robust. Stocked at the distributors listed above. Stops the battery wire from sparking when reconnected until it has been loose for at least an hour. Yes, the **** capacitors the factories install are that leaky the battery wire sparks from self discharge in 15 seconds. I buy only capacitors rated 3000 hours service life or longer. All the brands sell 500 or 1000 hour capacitors for repair shops that want the customer to bring the device back again broken in a year or two. Saves the shop $.20 to $.40 each capacitor.

 

[PCeBiker]

I'm pretty sure a KT controller and display will work for you.

The KT controller can be operated without a PAS sensor and the 30 amp and larger versions have the larger higher power motor connector that your e-bike appears to have.

This squarewave kit comes with the waterproof connectors, 1-4 cable, and a free compatible throttle.

The only thing left to hook up are the brake switches and battery.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKdzweM

The ONLY issue I see is that pink wire going from your battery to your controller.

That could be a proprietary communication wire that will only work with your original controller.
Or it could be a simple +5 Volt signal wire sent from the controller to wake up the battery.
Or it may not be used at all.

If it is proprietary, then you would need to replace the BMS inside the battery with a BMS that only has battery positive and negative outputs.


However, it looks like that is an older 48V 11AH battery which is feeding a high power motor and your battery may be close to done, so a replacement battery that fits your battery brackets would be a good idea.

A complete battery with brackets could possibly be installed.

Don't buy a cheap battery.
We don't need any fires.

 

[PCeBiker]

These are some of the KT displays available for the controller,..

This one is more expensive but has a nice color display and a bit more functionality that allows you to adjust the power levels of each "throttle gear" when using the "imitation torque control" that you would need to use without having a PAS sensor hooked up.
It is available with a USB output for a few more dollars.

This display is adequate and will work but isn't as fancy.

Make sure you get a display with a waterproof plug that will plug into your 1T4 cable.

 

[harryS]

What was wrong with the bike that makes you want to replace the controller? Jump to bottom if you don't want to consider diagnosis, but it would be a bummer if you replace the controller and the motor was bad,.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No throttle? No Pedal Assist?

Does the LED display power up with lights when you press the on switch? Does it switch thru the modes? How many wires are on the LED790 connector? It doesn't matter, but it looks like five. Does the owners manual describe a Walk Mode, where you hold the Mode button for a few seconds? It's always a good test for controller functionality if the above throttle or pedal assist don't work. ALso check the throttle or pedal sensor connectors for 5 volts. If you don't get it, controller is dead.

Does the hubmotor spin backwards with the controller connected? If It locks up, it means there's a short circuit in either the controller's drive transistors, or in the motor cable wiring, or motor.

----Bottom--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Unless there's a round 9 pin motor connector downstream from your controller, you'll have to splice that connector into your motor harness to use the models recommended above. You also have to splice in round connectors for the brakes, throttle, and pedal sensor. A new display is mandatory with any new controller.

You could also buy a KT controller/display with discrete plugs. You'll have to take off the old six pin motor connector from your old harness and splice it ti the new controller. Might have to do the same for the pedal sensor, brakes, and throttle too, I think the KT controllers have the best pedal feel, and there is a whole family of available displays. Don't get the LCD1. It;'s the cheapest but doesn't have any of the options of the others. I am used to the LCD3. Have four or five of them on our bikes..I tyoically use either a 20A or 25A controller.It depends on how much room you have in the bike for it.



.



.

 

[PCeBiker]

You'll have to take off the old six pin motor connector from your old harness and splice it to the new controller.

There's a REALLY good chance that your motor cable will plug right in.
The KT controllers are designed with bafang in mind.

My KT install was more complicated because my Das-Kit motor had a proprietary julet type motor connector that I couldn't find anywhere, so I had to cut the cable off and solder it directly into my new controller.

. Might have to do the same for the pedal sensor, brakes, and throttle too,

The pedal sensor isn't needed for "imitation torque control", but any pedal sensor will work with the KT controller using the settings on the display.

The throttle is standard and the original throttle could be spliced in or replaced with a regular bafang thumb throttle or twist throttle that plugs right in.

The only splicing that may have to be done are the two brake switches, but they are just two pin, and polarity doesn't matter.



There is that pink wire coming from the battery that I'm not sure about.




.

 

[PCeBiker]

This looks like an old-school speed limit connector.

If it's yellow you unplug it, and your ebike will go really really fast.

That's not used anymore.
It was too easy for people to go really really fast.

 

[rotarypower101]

You need to purchase a controller with connectors like yours. If you know your motor is 48 v 750 watt, buy an equivalent rated controller. I see no possibility of matching the old display to anything, unless you buy controller from OEM. I don't know what a UI is. Buy a controller with a display at the same time. Or learn to live without a display. That means in my case, no PAS hookup, or control of PAS levels. I buy controllers before the old one fails off ebay and during Shanghai shutdown there weren't any. They are back, but ones with a PAS pickup plug or torque input plug do not show up on ebay. Throttle only, on the scooter compatible controllers I buy. 90% of controllers on ebay have the plugs only labeled in chinese, so I don't buy those. There is a guy in Texas that sells controllers with an english labeled picture. Screen shot save that picture the day you buy, there is no such picture or labels on the actually controller when it arrives. Usually scooter controllers are reverse rotation and require exercising the "learning" plugs to reverse the rotation. Since unplugging & storing the battery in the winter usually resets the controller to reverse rotation, usually I just reverse two motor phase wires and two hall effect pickup wires.
I refuse to send my debit card number to ***** to be hacked. One can buy a throw away "credit" card for use in ***** but that ties up a certain amount of money indefinitely. The requirement of aliexp for my birthdate means I do not deal with them. I will not give that to facebook or x either. They want my birthdate, they can pay a credit bureau for it. I'm not giving it away. It was the only security code for my retirement account for decades. My bank still requires birthdate everytime I call them.
Actually if you know FETs are failed, it is easier to change them than find a matching controller. warning, wear safety glasses. Desoldering solder could splash in your eye. Of course disconnect battery wire before work on the PCB. Depletion mode nfets are used usually, available from newark, digikey, mouser etc. Check the heat sink compound and insulator to the heat sink bar, many cheap controllers have none. Which is why the old ones blew. That aluminum case is a nice decoration, but my first controller (ebikeling) there was no connection between the heat tabs of the fets and the case. I added one and it lasted 4 1/2 years ~9000 miles. New fets have a diode drop between source and drain and no connection gate to drain. Make sure Vsd is >100 v. 600 v fets are probably excessive. TO220 case is probably fine, TO246 or TO3p may not fit. You will probably find a bad nfet has blown a fuse internal to the controller.
What killed the ebikeling controller eventually the pas pickup lost connection between the wire from the connector and the IC, for which no datasheet is available to label the pins.
While you are at it, replace the leaky 470 uf 65 v capacitors with industrial grade that doesn't leak. Mark plus on the board with a sharpie before disconnecting. If you put the new ones in backwards they blow the top open. I buy electrolytic capacitors from panasonic, rubicon, nichicon, vishay, or kemet. 80 v is a little more robust. Stocked at the distributors listed above. Stops the battery wire from sparking when reconnected until it has been loose for at least an hour. Yes, the **** capacitors the factories install are that leaky the battery wire sparks from self discharge in 15 seconds. I buy only capacitors rated 3000 hours service life or longer. All the brands sell 500 or 1000 hour capacitors for repair shops that want the customer to bring the device back again broken in a year or two. Saves the shop $.20 to $.40 each capacitor.

I think there is a LOT of good information on this post, but I am going to need it broken down into bite sized clear chunks for me please, completly new to these ebikes, and drinking from the firehose trying to learn detsails about them.

You need to purchase a controller with connectors like yours.

If possible to get help sourcing a suitable controller with those SM connectors, and all the correct interface connectors I would be ELATED to get some real help from experienced people! (I have never even been on a ebike to express the sum total of my experience with these...)

I see no possibility of matching the old display to anything,

I have seen a few controllers with a "Very similar" displays, but if there is a alternative option that is compatible with all the other running gear, that would be perfectly fine to replace the display as referenced above.

I don't know what a UI is

Common short hand for "User Interface", sounds like the correct common nomenclature here is "display" ?

Actually if you know FETs are failed, it is easier to change them than find a matching controller

That is a option, but he controller is completely potted. Which doesnt pose a problem if someone was willing and confident they could tell me Explicitly which fets to replace the existing bad one with were.
Many times you get into those controllers and the part numbers are nearly worthless to be able to find a 1:1 direct replacement.
As well as any other details/components that might need reworking. (truth be told, if its more than just fets, wouldn't look forward to cleaning compound off VS a direct replacement TBH)

You will probably find a bad nfet has blown a fuse internal to the controller.

Are the fuses "easily" replaceable/repairable?

What killed the ebikeling controller eventually the pas pickup lost connection between the wire from the connector and the IC, for which no datasheet is available to label the pins.

Is there a good guide to verify that system if it has likely failed and a contributing factor to the issue?

While you are at it, replace the leaky 470 uf 65 v capacitors with industrial grade that doesn't leak.

Still using those worthless caps on everything? Thats too bad, just finished up a entire 90s erra instrument cluster last year with those knockoff electrolyte caps, and it was a Mess!

 

[PCeBiker]

I have seen a few controllers with a "Very similar" displays, but if there is a alternative option that is compatible with all the other running gear, that would be perfectly fine to replace the display as referenced above.

KT has one, but it's old and doesn't have settings to adjust for different PAS (pedal) sensor inputs, as well as a multitude of other settings.

 

[PCeBiker]

.., but it would be a bummer if you replace the controller and the motor was bad,.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

I didn't think of that.

Some diagnostic testing would certainly be prudent.

 

[rotarypower101]

I'm pretty sure a KT controller and display will work for you.

The KT controller can be operated without a PAS sensor and the 30 amp and larger versions have the larger higher power motor connector that your e-bike appears to have.

This squarewave kit comes with the waterproof connectors, 1-4 cable, and a free compatible throttle.

The only thing left to hook up are the brake switches and battery.


View attachment 168921View attachment 168922

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKdzweM

The ONLY issue I see is that pink wire going from your battery to your controller.

That could be a proprietary communication wire that will only work with your original controller.
Or it could be a simple +5 Volt signal wire sent from the controller to wake up the battery.
Or it may not be used at all.

If it is proprietary, then you would need to replace the BMS inside the battery with a BMS that only has battery positive and negative outputs.


However, it looks like that is an older 48V 11AH battery which is feeding a high power motor and your battery may be close to done, so a replacement battery that fits your battery brackets would be a good idea.

A complete battery with brackets could possibly be installed.

Don't buy a cheap battery.
We don't need any fires.

With the KT controller, do they have a "breakout" adaptor to be able to plug the existing hardware into it?
How "specialized" are the interface hardware components? Are there different standards to worry about? Or can I chuck almost nay rated controller at almost any existing bike hardware?

No frame of reference, so need to ask beforehand.

The ONLY issue I see is that pink wire going from your battery to your controller.

The "Pink" wire only exists in the person that drew that schematics mind from what I can tell for this specific bike... Probably just a lazy cut and paste job from some other application they were coping the notes from...

The battery is a 2 wire setup, full stop as far as I can tell.

48V 11AH battery which is feeding a high power motor and your battery may be close to done, so a replacement battery that fits your battery brackets would be a good idea.

I can only repeat what I was told on the battery.
I was told it is a Brand New unit, and testing voltage and purley based on external appearances VS the bike seems to corroborate that.

As an aside, do these ebike batteries typically illuminate the "ON Button" Always?
When depressed, it illuminated Brightly, when pressed again, it is still always on, for over 2 months strait, but is always dimly lit.

I have NO idea if that is atypical or normal, but does give me pause that there is internal leakage on the board...and is hard to trust when you see a detail like that...
Why would they let a battery remain lit indefinitely? Even if it is Only LED load, when the cell reaches LVC, that will take it beyond over time.

 

[rotarypower101]

What was wrong with the bike that makes you want to replace the controller? Jump to bottom if you don't want to consider diagnosis, but it would be a bummer if you replace the controller and the motor was bad,.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No throttle? No Pedal Assist?

Does the LED display power up with lights when you press the on switch? Does it switch thru the modes? How many wires are on the LED790 connector? It doesn't matter, but it looks like five. Does the owners manual describe a Walk Mode, where you hold the Mode button for a few seconds? It's always a good test for controller functionality if the above throttle or pedal assist don't work. ALso check the throttle or pedal sensor connectors for 5 volts. If you don't get it, controller is dead.

Does the hubmotor spin backwards with the controller connected? If It locks up, it means there's a short circuit in either the controller's drive transistors, or in the motor cable wiring, or motor.

----Bottom--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Unless there's a round 9 pin motor connector downstream from your controller, you'll have to splice that connector into your motor harness to use the models recommended above. You also have to splice in round connectors for the brakes, throttle, and pedal sensor. A new display is mandatory with any new controller.

You could also buy a KT controller/display with discrete plugs. You'll have to take off the old six pin motor connector from your old harness and splice it ti the new controller. Might have to do the same for the pedal sensor, brakes, and throttle too, I think the KT controllers have the best pedal feel, and there is a whole family of available displays. Don't get the LCD1. It;'s the cheapest but doesn't have any of the options of the others. I am used to the LCD3. Have four or five of them on our bikes..I tyoically use either a 20A or 25A controller.It depends on how much room you have in the bike for it.



.



.

What was wrong with the bike that makes you want to replace the controller? Jump to bottom if you don't want to consider diagnosis, but it would be a bummer if you replace the controller and the motor was bad,.

I can only relay the information given to me...and its not a lot, so apologies I don't have more information to help diagnose.
I was told it "just quit one day"
As many followup questions as I asked I couldnt get them to budge on any other reasons that could have contributed to its failure. Or even symptomatic issues leading up to it stopping.

They also told me they took it to their local "ebike guy", and he said it had a "Bad controller" , he pulled everything apart and damaged wires and plugs, as well as lost many of the parts while sitting on the "healing bench" for a long Loooong time, then he gave up, the bike was then brought to me in bits and pieces as a last resort I guess.

The motor power wires plug jacketing were noticeable scorched as a clue. I cleand all the carbon and brought them to bare metal to test viability. I couldn't get it to react to any inputs after fixing as many details as I could

And The video referenced above seems to say if the controller inputs/outputs are open, then the controller Is bad. I dont have hardware to test beyond assuming that video is correct.

Is there a way to Verify a bad motor if the above is not necessarily true or accurate way to test a controller?

If I had someone local to lean on for experienced testing and diagnosis, I would be more than thrilled to be led to some experienced help around Portland Oregon, just cant seem to find who I should pester...And is willing to do it on a DIY budget.

Does the LED display power up with lights when you press the on switch? Does it switch thru the modes?

Yes I believe the display powers up, and I can change modes.

How many wires are on the LED790 connector?

5 White,blue,green,yellow,black,red if helpful.

Does the owners manual describe a Walk Mode, where you hold the Mode button for a few seconds?

I don't see anything that clearly indicated a walk mode in the manual in any section that deals with modes or use.

ALso check the throttle or pedal sensor connectors for 5 volts. If you don't get it, controller is dead.

I will check that, I have asked for some tips to help diagnose the controller further, thats the first suggestion I have gotten anywhere, Thank You, appreciate that!

Does the hubmotor spin backwards with the controller connected? If It locks up, it means there's a short circuit in either the controller's drive transistors, or in the motor cable wiring, or motor.

I will check that and report back

Unless there's a round 9 pin motor connector downstream from your controller, you'll have to splice that connector into your motor harness to use the models recommended above. You also have to splice in round connectors for the brakes, throttle, and pedal sensor. A new display is mandatory with any new controller.

Thank you , details I need to hear.

I have NO Problem changing out the plugs and wiring, is the ancillary hardware typically compatible?
Does that need to be changed out?

If there is anything I can check and verify to get a suggestion which controller that will be compatible , would appreciate it!

I dont know what I dont know about this stuff... so any strong recommendations are really appreciated!

 

[PCeBiker]

OK, your battery is good to go regardless of what you do.

The 30 amp KT controller is available with SM plugs but the motor cable connector is also SM and bullet plugs.

I think that it would be a lot easier to cut and paste a couple of two pin and three pin connectors for the waterproof install than trying to figure out the pin configuration of the motor plug.

Here's some pictures for reference,..

You can replace the throttle for around $10 so it will plug right in, and you can replace the PAS (pedal) sensor too for about the same price but you'd probably have to pull the crank arm to replace it and sometimes things don't fit, so wiring in the old pedal sensor would probably be easier.

Deleting it all together would be the easiest, and a KT controller allows for that.
(That's what I did it for my install. I just use the throttle. I can always pedal along if I want to, but I don't wanna. )

 

[harryS]

Sometimes, a motor will use molded connector and break out into discrete pins at the cpmtropller. See if you have this in your bike, unless that ebike shop stole it for a spare. Then you could go all molded connectors, with a 4:1 harness. You would buy new brake lever and a throttle too. They're cheap from China. The whole controller/display combo was like $130.

 

[rotarypower101]

This looks like an old-school speed limit connector.

View attachment 168926


If it's yellow you unplug it, and your ebike will go really really fast.

That's not used anymore.
It was too easy for people to go really really fast.

I dont know if that is a accurate depiction of the actual controller included just FYI (no surprise I guess...), or at least of the part I have in hand that I was told is the origonal controller.

Is that speed controller referenced possibly this "looped" plug, that is Really Strange to me!

It is a White 5 pin plug looped back into a Black 4 pin connector, the locking tab is just Jammed into it, and the housing is jutting up to facilitate it.

 

[PCeBiker]

As an aside, do these ebike batteries typically illuminate the "ON Button" Always?
When depressed, it illuminated Brightly, when pressed again, it is still always on, for over 2 months strait, but is always dimly lit.

Don't know about that battery specifically.
Try pushing and holding the button in for a few seconds and see if the light shuts off.

That LED would cause an energy drain so plugging the battery to the charger for half an hour would be a good idea, but don't fully charge the battery then let it sit.

If you can check the voltage of the battery, it should be between 30% and 60% for storage (I don't remember the actual voltage for that off hand?)

 

[rotarypower101]

KT has one, but it's old and doesn't have settings to adjust for different PAS (pedal) sensor inputs, as well as a multitude of other settings.

View attachment 168927

How "universal" and standardized are the protocols utilized on these ? I have a hunch based on these bikes origins...but maybe I will be surprised, and it wont be nearly as messy and obfuscated as my cynicism would lead me to believe.

If I find a SM plugged "old stock" controller will it likely plug right into the bafang motor and sensors, and be on its way no issues?

 

[rotarypower101]

OK, your battery is good to go regardless of what you do.

The 30 amp KT controller is available with SM plugs but the motor cable connector is also SM and bullet plugs.

View attachment 168932View attachment 168933


I think that it would be a lot easier to cut and paste a couple of two pin and three pin connectors for the waterproof install than trying to figure out the pin configuration of the motor plug.

Here's some pictures for reference,..

View attachment 168934
View attachment 168935

You can replace the throttle for around $10 so it will plug right in, and you can replace the PAS (pedal) sensor too for about the same price but you'd probably have to pull the crank arm to replace it and sometimes things don't fit, so wiring in the old pedal sensor would probably be easier.

Deleting it all together would be the easiest, and a KT controller allows for that.
(That's what I did it for my install. I just use the throttle. I can always pedal along if I want to, but I don't wanna. )

Any advice is welcomed!

Especially with all the little details I don't know anything about, and will certainly trip me up!

I am mechanically inclined, but at the same time, as soon as I start changing things (I feel responsible that it works then) so the less changes I can make to the sensors or any running gear would be my Strong preference for this specific application.

Assuming I can repair it, it will be traveling back to a different state, far away from me, and any adjusting or tweaking will be "impossible" for the owner essentially...

 

[PCeBiker]

Is that speed controller referenced possibly this "looped" plug, that is Really Strange to me!

Yeah, that's probably it?

I don't have any personal experience with it, but my neighbor and others had e-bikes where they simply "unplugged the yellow wire" and their e-bikes went really really fast.

Then they cooked their SLA batteries or tore up their plastic gears in their motor.

The bikes went fast for a few months then they were discarded.

Maybe it was just the single yellow wire that was cut or removed from the plug?


You wouldn't have to deal with any of that mess with a clean install of a new controller and display.

Assuming that your motor isn't the problem of course.

 

[rotarypower101]

Sometimes, a motor will use molded connector and break out into discrete pins at the cpmtropller. See if you have this in your bike, unless that ebike shop stole it for a spare. Then you could go all molded connectors, with a 4:1 harness. You would buy new brake lever and a throttle too. They're cheap from China. The whole controller/display combo was like $130.


View attachment 168939

It appears to use this specific variant of overmolded plug