Heavy rider, very steep hills, not too expensive! Help please

[indianajo]

. I think I will be going for a Bosch mid drive, maybe full suspension as well so I can go a bit more off-road! I now realise that I will probably have to spend more than I thought I would, and I'll definitely insist on a proper test ride before I buy.

Bosch provides a great ride experience. Enjoy paying L1000 if you ride your bike 5 years and need a new battery. The connectors & form factor are patented. Owners have reported that only Bosch dealers in the area of the customer are allowed to sell a replacement pack.
Looks like I could replace my $630 17.5 48v battery with a $140 one if the two satisfied customers on this thread are any indication of quality. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/is-this-battery-pack-for-real-106.43001/post-436114

 

[retiredNH]

Bosch provides a great ride experience. Enjoy paying L1000 if you ride your bike 5 years and need a new battery. The connectors & form factor are patented. Owners have reported that only Bosch dealers in the area of the customer are allowed to sell a replacement pack.
Looks like I could replace my $630 17.5 48v battery with a $140 one if the two satisfied customers on this thread are any indication of quality. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/is-this-battery-pack-for-real-106.43001/post-436114

It's like buying an apple mac computer vs a no name generic or home built. You (in theory) get a well thought out product with excellent service, vs the DIY choice. For the record, I've been building my own desktops for years, but bought a Trek Allant bike.

 

[soyabean]

There is nothing wrong with DIY, and DIY should be encouraged with proper confidence.

But like all things in life, majority of DIY folks should not be DIY'ing, as they often learn that it was a most costliest mistake.

Again, that generally applies to all things in life, not just ebikes.

 

[HarleyM]

I have a Pendleton Somerby (rear wheel 250W Bafang motor) and now realised that I probably have the wrong bike! I am a man of advanced years, 6'3" (190cm) 115Kg and have bad knees so e-biking gives me the freedom to explore the coastline where I live and helps me to get some exercise. The slope down to the seafront is probably about 20% and getting back up on my Pendleton I have to stand up in the lowest gear to get up it so I usually end up walking.

Am I right in thinking that an e-bike with a motor in the crank and gears on the back wheel would be the best choice for steep hills with a heavy rider? I would value advice on a suitable bike. It needs to be UK road legal, range not important, I only go on short, local runs, and not too expensive.

I'm in a similar boat to you, aging bad knees and a hill to negotiate to get home at the end of your ride. From my experience, and having had both hub and mid powered ebike's leans heavily towards using a mid drive. The mid drive gearing needs to be set to use the largest cog on the cluster and the motor needs to be running at it's preferred speed (fast) and not allowed to labour. As long as your chain is good you'll get up pretty much any hill even if it's at a crawl. Of course a higher wattage motor will do it easier than a lower one. I can tell you the relief I feel when I hit the hill home and set the gearing and say "take me home".

 

[john peck]

I have a Pendleton Somerby (rear wheel 250W Bafang motor) and now realised that I probably have the wrong bike! I am a man of advanced years, 6'3" (190cm) 115Kg and have bad knees so e-biking gives me the freedom to explore the coastline where I live and helps me to get some exercise. The slope down to the seafront is probably about 20% and getting back up on my Pendleton I have to stand up in the lowest gear to get up it so I usually end up walking.

Am I right in thinking that an e-bike with a motor in the crank and gears on the back wheel would be the best choice for steep hills with a heavy rider? I would value advice on a suitable bike. It needs to be UK road legal, range not important, I only go on short, local runs, and not too expensive.

I don´t think I can help you UK legal. Sounds like you need 500w, any viable 250w bike for you & terrain .
It would still entail a good deal of exertion. We´re about the same size & age. There may be a better bike
to fit, but not cheap I´m thinking.

 

[tomjasz]

My little 36v 250w and 350w BBS01 and BBSO1B with a 11x46 cassette , 42t chainrings are up to it. Just not all that power US riders seem to insist on.

 

[tomjasz]

It's like buying an apple mac computer vs a no name generic or home built. You (in theory) get a well thought out product with excellent service, vs the DIY choice. For the record, I've been building my own desktops for years, but bought a Trek Allant bike.

Like Bosch Apple denies the market the right to repair. Regardless I’m all in. MacBooks,ipads, iPhones, Apple TV, iWatch and to many accessories.

I also never diss Bosch, but remain perplexed about their denying me repair alternatives.

 

[ElevenAD]

My little 36v 250w and 350w BBS01 and BBSO1B with a 11x46 cassette , 42t chainrings are up to it. Just not all that power US riders seem to insist on.

US riders dont insist on power its an option here so we take advantage of it just like European riders would if it was as easily achievable.

 

[tomjasz]

US riders dont insist on power

Hmm....that is just silly, IMO. Look at any motorsports or vehicle sales. US drivers are power-hungry.

Average US vehicle 180 and 200 horsepower.

Average EU-28 88.24 to 100 horsepower.

 

[Johnny]

The reason why EU cars are less powerful is because of taxes. Most of the time they are taxed by engine size.

That is also why there are lots of turbo charged small engines in EU because drivers want more hp while paying as small tax as possible...

 

[EMGX]

I will be doing a tune up and popping one of these on a bike. They are about $30. A long cage derailleur is indexed the same and also costs under $30 for a decent one. I would rather replace less expensive parts more regularly. But that is me. The bike is getting this chain. This pictured cassette is 11-42T, which is plenty. The owner's mid-drive has a 50-T chainring. You could have a sedate 42 chainring for those climbs up the cliff from the sea.

I'm wasting time waiting for a battery to charge but here goes.
PedalUma's solution might work for the OP also. I looked up his bike which looks like a nice ride. OEM 13-32 8 speed cassette, 36t chainring. He could replace with a 11-42 cassette (~$30 USD) and 32t chainring, if needed (<$20 USD). If his derailleur can't handle the larger 42t rear sprocket there are derailleur extensions that can overcome that - I'm using one on a bike that I have and it works flawlessly. Might need a longer chain too. Easy DIY (if the chainring is bolted, not riveted and if the BCD is compatible) for less than $100 USD (including a chain, if needed). Not sure how much a bike shop would charge.

 

[ElevenAD]

The reason why EU cars are less powerful is because of taxes. Most of the time they are taxed by engine size.

That is also why there are lots of turbo charged small engines in EU because drivers want more hp while paying as small tax as possible...

sounds about right! everyone loves power and speed, Europeans trying to act all above it all is "silly",same friggin people just living on a different patch of dirt.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Europeans trying to act all above

Petrol is expensive in Europe.

 

[tomjasz]

Petrol is expensive in Europe.

A more realistic price given the environmental damage.

 

[Foffer]

Yes you are right . Hub motors are singlespeed regardless of whther you have a gear cluster/derailleur. This is because they power the bike thru the axle. As a result, the drivetrain (chain/chainring/cogs/cranks) is there purely for your benefit. You can remove the chain and engage the pedal assist just fine by pedaling, assuming there is a cadence sensor in play.

A hub motor's life sucks in hills for the same reason yours does if you try riding up one on a singlespeed bike. You can possibly overcome the problem by throwing higher voltage and amperage at it, but you will not be solving the inherent wrong-tool-for-the-job situation you are in with a hub bike. Especially when faced with a 20% grade.

The solution you are describing is known as a "mid drive" and since it powers the bike thru the drivetrain, it solves this issue completely. A properly set up bike in the right gear can climb a hill like its not there. You will have to do things like shift in advance (or else) but you can overcome the issues with learned behavior. The linked article below will help get you there.

How To Ride a Mid Drive Ebike Without Breaking It

If you can ride a bicycle you already know how to ride a hub drive ebike. Not so a mid drive. Particularly a powerful one that can tear your chain apart. Fear not. The rules are simple.

talesontwowheels.com

I'm sorry but while I have an idea with respect to the motor choice on a conversion, I have no idea with respect to a specific for-sale bike that fits under the UK's rather draconian power/speed laws. But for sure it has to be a mid drive to solve your root problem.

Thanks for your help and a very interesting link. I have spent the last month researching and test riding and have now just made a purchase, a Haibike HardSeven 4

https://www.haibike.com/gb/en/elect...ic-trail-bikes/hardseven-4-gb1225?id=45002145

It is UK compliant and has a Bosch mid drive with 65Nm torque which easily copes with my local hill. After watching the link video I will be careful about changing gear!

 

[m@Robertson]

It is UK compliant and has a Bosch mid drive with 65Nm torque which easily copes with my local hill. After watching the link video I will be careful about changing gear!

In your case I would remain prudent but not concerned. At 65Nm your risk of breaking things is much-reduced. Here in the States its not unusual to see peaks of 160 Nm, and that pictured bike with the Cyc motor is pumping out 180 Nm if I let it.

Still, you do want to be careful. Hopefully Haibike has built in a gear sensor to interrupt power during the shift process. I would definitely check that. And while that article is full of good general advice, I'd go for specific Haibike-centric answers in the Haibike area of the forum. There is a lot of 'general' advice that may not cut the mustard when you drill down to your specific.

 

[Alemap]

The Eahora X5 is a folding fat tire comes with a 750 watt rear hub motor that is rated to carry 350 pounds. It's about $1300. I have ridden about 300 miles so far with no problems other than a thorn in the rear tire. I weigh about 320lbs. It handles hills easily using low gear and pedal assist level 1 and you can use throttle when needed. So far it's been great.

I have a Pendleton Somerby (rear wheel 250W Bafang motor) and now realised that I probably have the wrong bike! I am a man of advanced years, 6'3" (190cm) 115Kg and have bad knees so e-biking gives me the freedom to explore the coastline where I live and helps me to get some exercise. The slope down to the seafront is probably about 20% and getting back up on my Pendleton I have to stand up in the lowest gear to get up it so I usually end up walking.

Am I right in thinking that an e-bike with a motor in the crank and gears on the back wheel would be the best choice for steep hills with a heavy rider? I would value advice on a suitable bike. It needs to be UK road legal, range not important, I only go on short, local runs, and not too expensive.