hair dryers

[PCeBiker]

Old house? In my house all outlets are 20A with lighting being the only 15A.

My house has aluminum wiring from 1942.
The house was upgraded to 100 amp service in 1978 but all the old wiring remains.
Half the house is wired through a single 15 amp circuit breaker that isn't grounded because that hadn't been invented yet.

I just don't use the old outlets and added a couple new circuits.
I don't know if I'm even gonna get my ebike wired up before spring, so the house wiring can wait.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Old house? In my house all outlets are 20A with lighting being the only 15A.

Out of the game for a while, but as I remember it... By code 20a circuits are not required in the bedroom.
Only kitchen, bath and dining area

 

[PCeBiker]

By code 20a circuits are not required in the bedroom.

I couldn't figure out why the code was changed to turn the outlets upside down?
A lot of grounded plugs hang down from the outlet, so they had to bend over backwards to get to the floor.
I think they changed it back to the normal orientation now?

This is why the ground pin is supposed to be at the top,..

I laughed out loud, when I figured out the reasoning the hard way.
My breakers are working too.

Kids were using butter knives.

I used a Bobby Pin when I was 7, but it was a lot more work to get the fuse to blow.



My dryer outlet was installed sideways as some sort of compromise I guess?

 

[Gionnirocket]

I couldn't figure out why the code was changed to turn the outlets upside down?
A lot of grounded plugs hang down from the outlet, so they had to bend over backwards to get to the floor.
I think they changed it back to the normal orientation now?

This is why the ground pin is supposed to be at the top,..

View attachment 189878


I laughed out loud, when I figured out the reasoning the hard way.
My breakers are working too.

Kids were using butter knives.

I used a Bobby Pin when I was 7, but it was a lot more work to get the fuse to blow.



My dryer outlet was installed sideways as some sort of compromise I guess?


View attachment 189879

One job we had before it became code was to flip all the receptacles in a hospital when a patient's rosary beads fell across a plug that was partially hanging out. He spoke to God directly that day.

 

[Chazmo]

Old house? In my house all outlets are 20A with lighting being the only 15A.

House was built in the 1960s… I guess I’m used to houses in the north east USA, Gordon. As you mentioned, the problem with 20A is that lighting can break and not trigger a 20A breaker. 15A is safer for bedrooms. Having said that, I ordered a 1400W dryer for my mom.

 

[Gionnirocket]

House was built in the 1960s… I guess I’m used to houses in the north east USA, Gordon. As you mentioned, the problem with 20A is that lighting can break and not trigger a 20A breaker. 15A is safer for bedrooms. Having said that, I ordered a 1400W dryer for my mom.

Whenever I wired anything residential.. Especially new construction or a total rewire, all receptacles were wired 20a and all lighting kept separate at 15a. This way if you did trip a breaker with a plug in appliance you weren't also left in the dark. And if a lightning circuit tripped you'd still have plug in lamps.

 

[PCeBiker]

Having said that, I ordered a 1400W dryer for my mom.

My mom never used her oven and was using it for storage, so we removed the glass oven fuse from the stove to prevent accidents.

It's a lot like kid proofing your house when you've got a toddler getting into trouble.

 

[spokewrench]

I realize this is mundane as hell, and it’s really just a rant, but it bothers me that every hair dryer in Wal-Mart is too powerful to actually use in a bedroom with a 15A fuse (like much of the world uses). That is unless you like tripping and resetting breakers.

Fine… you want to tell me that I should be using a 20A-protected circuit like some bathrooms. OK, well, my 92 year old mother goes from her assisted shower in the bathroom to the bedroom where she is dressed and her hair is dried. Well, whatever… I’m pretty sure there’s a 15A breaker in for the bathroom as well. Sigh.

Of course, I can order a lower-wattage dryer, which I think will be have to be my solution even if there’s a 20A for the bathroom. So, all the Wal-Mart dryers compete with each other and run at over 1800W. A 15A breaker is really only good for about 1400W.

How irritating.

If a dryer needed a 20 amp circuit, it would have to have a plug like the one below. If it has a regular plug (parallel blades), it'll run on a 15 amp circuit. (If 20 A is recommended for bathrooms, it's to let you use something drawing up to 5 A while your hair dryer is drawing 15 A.)

I wondered why you said 1400 W. 15 A at 120 V would be 1800 W.

Then I remembered: power factor. I have an electric chain saw that may draw 14 A in heavy cutting, but it may use 1200 W max. AC electric motors and some other kinds of devices are likely to have electricity sloshing in the wires like water sloshing in a tank. That extra current isn't doing any work. The ratio of watts to volt-amps is the power factor. The power factor of that saw would be 1200 W / 1680 VA = .71.

Almost all the current fed to a hair dryer goes to the heating element, and the power factor of a heating element is 1. So a dryer up to 1800 watts should work on a 15 amp breaker, as a 15-amp plug would indicate.

I see most of Walmart's dryers are advertised at 1875 W. That assumes 15 A at 125 V. Right now my outlets have 120, so those dryers would draw 1728 W and 14.4 A.
I see one advertised at 2000 W, but the description says 1600.

 

[PCeBiker]

So a dryer up to 1800 watts should work on a 15 amp breaker, as a 15-amp plug would indicate.

Breakers can start tripping easier after they've been tripped a bunch of times.
I was talking to an electrician 20 years ago who said a certain brand name, that was fully certified, wouldn't trip at all.
He could short circuit the wiring, shooting sparks everywhere, and the breaker wouldn't trip.

I installed a 15 amp circuit that ended up with my microwave, toaster, and chest freezer plugged into it.

It was fine for over a year, and I could use the microwave and toaster at the same time but one day, the breaker popped with both running at the same time.

The freezer is less than 200 Watts but it has a 12 amp surge current, and it must have turned on during the 3 minutes that the toaster was running.

I like to test my breakers to make sure the work.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Breakers can start tripping easier after they've been tripped a bunch of times.

Very true.. Or just being used frequently close to capacity. One quick test is to click it on and off. A new breaker will be somewhat stiff with a definite hard click. A worn breaker will feel loose and easy.

I was talking to an electrician 20 years ago who said a certain brand name, that was fully certified, wouldn't trip at all He could short circuit the wiring, shooting sparks everywhere, and the breaker wouldn't trip.

Federal Pacific were notorious for the ability to arc weld.

I installed a 15 amp circuit that ended up with my microwave, toaster, and chest freezer plugged into it.

It was fine for over a year, and I could use the microwave and toaster at the same time but one day, the breaker popped with both running at the same time.

The freezer is less than 200 Watts but it has a 12 amp surge current, and it must have turned on during the 3 minutes that the toaster was running.

I like to test my breakers to make sure the work.

Most modern brands are fully tested with descent quality control... Not sure that's necessary.

 

[PCeBiker]

Federal Pacific were notorious for the ability to arc

My crappy 120 volt stick welder kept tripping the breaker, so I installed a 20 amp breaker and it still keeps popping the damn breaker.
So I bought a cord for a stove to wire it directly into the welder to give it 50 amps.

I never did install the cord because I suck at welding anyway, and 50 amps probably still isn't enough for the damn welder, then I'd have to wire directly into 100 main breaker, and end up blacking the whole neighborhood.

The welder has a 10% duty cycle, so maybe the 15 amps is averaged over time and it actually draws 150 amps?

 

[spokewrench]

Breakers can start tripping easier after they've been tripped a bunch of times.
I was talking to an electrician 20 years ago who said a certain brand name, that was fully certified, wouldn't trip at all.
He could short circuit the wiring, shooting sparks everywhere, and the breaker wouldn't trip.

I installed a 15 amp circuit that ended up with my microwave, toaster, and chest freezer plugged into it.

It was fine for over a year, and I could use the microwave and toaster at the same time but one day, the breaker popped with both running at the same time.

The freezer is less than 200 Watts but it has a 12 amp surge current, and it must have turned on during the 3 minutes that the toaster was running.

I like to test my breakers to make sure the work.

AFCI. The US NEC has required it since 1999. Traditionally, a circuit breaker or fuse would tolerate a surge, such as starting a motor. Deadly fires were starting from arcing that wasn't sustained enough to rouse a circuit breaker.

My refrigerator compressor starts out using something like 140 W, IIRC, and tapers down to 50, IIRC. The highest wattage is for the defrost heater. Is it 700? I should use my plug-in watt meter to refresh my memory.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5QMK3BP

I got this one the other day, adding to the team.

Microwave: terrible invention. Toaster: likewise. Instant Pot: beauty way to go. First I got a 1000 W ( 8 A ) model. Now I mostly use the 6 A model. The diameter is 30% smaller, so the water is twice as deep, which helps spread the heat to pressure-cook small meals. Plus, I could use other things on the same circuit as a 6 A Instant Pot without tripping a breaker. Do Bob and Doug Mckenzie run the company?

 

[PCeBiker]

I got this one the other day, adding to the team.

I've got a similar one, but I couldn't see the damn screen. The digits were ghosting with half lit segments and I couldn't read it so I bought this one,..

I still couldn't see the damn screen unless I sat on the floor where the outlet was, so I soldered an extension cord to it to make it more user friendly.

I didn't want a big fat 3 prong cord on it, so I just used a 2 prong cord.
The ground isn't used by the meter anyway, and most things I check are just 2 prong.

I did at least use a Polarized plug to keep line and neutral oriented correctly.

terrible invention. Toaster: likewise.

The worst toaster is a toaster oven.
By the time the toast is finally looking toasty, it's dried right out.

Great for making your own Melba Toast though.

My refrigerator compressor starts out using something like 140 W, IIRC, and tapers down to 50, IIRC. The highest wattage is for the defrost heater. Is it 700?

My fridge.
It doesn't mention surge current though. It might be labeled on the compressor?

And my freezer,..

Interestingly, after freon was banned, third world countries were still allowed to use it.
Pound for pound, it was more lucrative to smuggle freon into the US from Mexico than smuggling cocaine.

 

[spokewrench]

I've got a similar one, but I couldn't see the damn screen. The digits were ghosting with half lit segments and I couldn't read it so I bought this one,..

I still couldn't see the damn screen unless I sat on the floor where the outlet was, so I soldered an extension cord to it to make it more user friendly.

I didn't want a big fat 3 prong cord on it, so I just used a 2 prong cord.
The ground isn't used by the meter anyway, and most things I check are just 2 prong.

My fridge.
It doesn't mention surge current though. It might be labeled on the compressor?

More than a decade ago I was using my first one to monitor the charging of a truck battery. Fair weather was forecast, but the hood was open only 3 inches in case a thunderstorm popped up. One did. Somehow, enough rain blew under the hood that the Kill-A-Watt would no longer show the accumulated time or kwh. So I got another. The price had gone way up.

Later, I bought 2 more of 2 other brands. They record max and min watts. I hadn't thought about it, but one that recorded maximum amps would be useful. If I see one, I'd buy it!

I bought a couple of 12 foot, 12 gauge extension cords primarily for use with watt meters so I can easily read them. My grandfather had this house wired in 1926, so several rooms have ungrounded outlets. In those rooms, I plug the cord into an adapter.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Microwave: terrible invention.

That's because 99% don't understand how to use it. Guarantee if you asked 100 people to adjust the power level of the microwave they wouldn't know how even though the button is in plain site and it's a most basic of feature.

Toaster: likewise.

You're simply hi

Instant Pot:

I bet @PCeBiker has one of these but uses it for a bong

 

[PCeBiker]

That's because 99% don't understand how to use it. Guarantee if you asked 100 people to adjust the power level of the microwave they wouldn't know how even though the button is in plain site and it's a most basic of feature.

What I don't like about adjusting the power is that you're not really turning down the power like a throttle.
All you're really doing is adjusting the duty cycle.

What I'd like to know is why the hell the damn microwave needs to know whether I'm cooking or ?

What the hell difference does it make?.
My stove and frying pan asks no such questions of me.

You're simply hi

I bet @PCeBiker has one of these but uses it for a bong

I don't like bongs, because it feels like I'm wasting all the good stuff.
I suppose that I could drink the water afterwards to be frugal?


I use a rechargeable vape pipe that has a ceramic heater.

I could make my own electric pipe using the Ni-Chrome wire from a toaster.

This is wire from a broken air fryer.

I used the 30 minute countdown timer to recharge my pipe to 70% after every dose.


Luckily, its a wind-up timer, so it doesn't ask me whether I'm frying or ?

 

[Gionnirocket]

What I don't like about adjusting the power is that you're not really turning down the power like a throttle.
All you're really doing is adjusting the duty cycle.

That may be true, not sure as I never tested... But the end results are far different in doing so.
Ever try to use your stove with the burner only set to 100% the entire time?

What I'd like to know is why the hell the damn microwave needs to know whether I'm cooking or What the hell difference does it make?.My stove and frying pan asks no such questions of me.

I never use the presets... Same goes for my air fryer toaster oven.
They're just average out about what it should take to cook something in particular

 

[PCeBiker]

That may be true, not sure as I never tested...

You can hear the magnetron turning on and off. The fan keeps running.
I just set my power level to 50%.
The microwave hums for 15 seconds then stops for 15 seconds for the length of time I set.

Ever try to use your stove with the burner only set to 100% the entire time?

I have a gas stove.
When I turn it down to half, it doesn't go to full flame for 15 seconds then shut off for 15 seconds.

It just turns down the power like how a throttle controller should aughta operate.
It doesn't analyze my input and decide whether or not it's going to do what I tell it to do.

All I want to do is throw something in and turn the damn thing on.

I've been at friends places and had to ask how to turn it on.
Where's the fricken go button?
Do I have to study the manual just to heat up my damn ?


I still have my combination microwave/toaster oven from the good ole days,..

Gotta love the two-speed time dial.

It's old-school low power, so microwave, reheat, and defrost are the same setting.
It only cooks on low.

The magnetron finally crapped out just before covid.
The toaster oven still works and I'm actually cooking lunch right now,..

Standard sized stainless steel restaurant steamer trays fit nicely inside.

You don't have to worry if you left the oven on because it will shut off within the hour.

I had to buy this damn thing that irritates the Hell outta me, .

Touch membrane crap! You can't feel the buttons, so I put sponge tape over the two that I use.

And I REFUSE To tell it what time it is.
Nun Of Yor Damn Business ??
Stop Bugging Me !!!

 

[Gionnirocket]

What I don't like about adjusting the power is that you're not really turning down the power like a throttle.
All you're really doing is adjusting the duty cycle.

That may be true, not sure as I never tested... But the end results are far different in doing so.
Ever try to use your stove with the burner only set to 100% the entire time?

What I'd like to know is why the hell the damn microwave needs to know whether I'm cooking or What the hell difference does it make?.My stove and frying pan asks no such questions of me.

I never use the presets... Same goes for my air fryer toaster oven.
They're just average of about what it should take to cook something.

You can hear the magnetron turning on and off. The fan keeps running.
I just set my power level to 50%.
The microwave hums for 15 seconds then stops for 15 seconds for the length of time I set.

Yes basically that's how it works... But by adding time and adjusting duty cycle legnth the end results in a microwave are drasticly different.

I have a gas stove.
When I turn it down to half, it doesn't go to full flame for 15 seconds then shut off for 15 seconds

You do realize that a gas stove is a totally different thing and I use them in two totally different ways.

.