getting a regular bike after my battery fails?

[fooferdoggie]

"Didn't have to" because it worked without adjusting the B screw and limit screws, or "it was dead nuts on right out of the box"? With the former, you can probably get shifting to work better. The latter is rare.

I did not have. to adjust the screws. I still had to adjust the micro shift. I did that on the phone.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Man went on the first ride, and shifting was good— a lot less clunky than the Linkglide. Plus, I can display the gear on my Garmin, and that’s critical on the tandem. For some reason, it took a long time to realize what was happening. But on the tandem with the motor in front, if I am coasting or stopped and in too large of a cog and starting slow so I can shift, it causes stress on the ne way gearing, the motor, and you hear a whining sound. I found I can either shift way down, as I don’t know what gear I am in for that speed, or have my wife do the first pedal stroke. But now that I can see what gear I am in, I can make sure I am low enough when I stop or if I am coasting to shift, or have my wife start if I am not in a low enough gear. It was so much better and may save the motor.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

shimano even gives you a quick link since they are not reusable.

It is what Shimano wants you to believe I pretty often remove the Quick Link, give the chain a decent shaking in a degreaser fluid and after all is washed with water and dried, I reconnect the chain with the same QL then lubricate the chain. I can see no reason why the QL could be single use only!

 

[fooferdoggie]

It is what Shimano wants you to believe I pretty often remove the Quick Link, give the chain a decent shaking in a degreaser fluid and after all is washed with water and dried, I reconnect the chain with the same QL then lubricate the chain. I can see no reason why the QL could be single use only!

its only on the 11 and 12 speed. but not just shimano the KMC ones I Got as extra say the same thing single use only. it takes a lot more effort to close the 11 speed quick link it takes about all the force I can muster. so they are made differently then the regular ones.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Steve, I use the Shimano TL-CN10 tool to Remove/Connect both Shimano and KMC master links. Easy, effortless, sure. I see no technical reason why these two solid steel parts of the link should wear. Just saying.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Steve, I use the Shimano TL-CN10 tool to Remove/Connect both Shimano and KMC master links. Easy, effortless, sure. I see no technical reason why these two solid steel parts of the link should wear. Just saying.

its not just me. try one of the 11 speed linkglide chains. it is fucking cray how much effort it takes to snap the link the first time. totally threw me off. the 12 speed was much easier but its thinner too.
now check this out the shimano link says non reusable but KMC yep. but not the 12 speed. myselfI never take a chain off till it is finished.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Trust me. It is effortless with the TL-CN10. Both KMC and Shimano claim the master links are not re-usable. You know why?

So you spend $8 for two of them.

 

[stompandgo]

I will reuse a 12 speed Shimano quick link once. There is a noticeable difference in effort when connecting it for the second time. That's why I only use it twice, then toss. They are cheap enough.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I will reuse a 12 speed Shimano quick link once. There is a noticeable difference in effort when connecting it for the second time. That's why I only use it twice, then toss. They are cheap enough.

The Quick Link becomes unusable only when one of the connecting pins has dropped out.
I'm afraid your information is only based on a belief, Stomp.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I

I will reuse a 12 speed Shimano quick link once. There is a noticeable difference in effort when connecting it for the second time. That's why I only use it twice, then toss. They are cheap enough.

was expecting the 12 speed to be hard like the 11 but nope it was really easy.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Trust me. It is effortless with the TL-CN10. Both KMC and Shimano claim the master links are not re-usable. You know why?
View attachment 216628
So you spend $8 for two of them.

hey if your left with a broken chain in the middle of nowhere you can say I saved 4.00 and be proud

 

[Stefan Mikes]

hey if your left with a broken chain in the middle of nowhere you can say I saved 4.00 and be proud

I carry two little plastic bags, each containing spare 11 or 12 speed master links in my tool bag on every ride. I just do not need to replace the link each time I reconnect the chain. This is similar to carrying spare inner tubes: what if the industry claimed inner tubes were not re-usable?

 

[kevinmccune]

I carry two little plastic bags, each containing spare 11 or 12 speed master links in my tool bag on every ride. I just do not need to replace the link each time I reconnect the chain. This is similar to carrying spare inner tubes: what if the industry claimed inner tubes were not re-usable?

you can reuse most things,if upon inspection they seem to be alright,for example crush washers if not distorted and out of round( done it many times on Hondas.)

 

[fooferdoggie]

I carry two little plastic bags, each containing spare 11 or 12 speed master links in my tool bag on every ride. I just do not need to replace the link each time I reconnect the chain. This is similar to carrying spare inner tubes: what if the industry claimed inner tubes were not re-usable?

the thing is if the chain fails it always fails at the worst time and can cause you to crash. not worth it to save 4.00 hell I never need to take the chain off anyway so its a moot point.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

the thing is if the chain fails it always fails at the worst time and can cause you to crash. not worth it to save 4.00 hell I never need to take the chain off anyway so its a moot point.

Steve, the chain does not fail that often. It last failed last Winter when I was on a ride in Warsaw. Well, i got into a railway station building. I didn't have the TL-CN10 with me. Using a chain tool, I removed a failed chain link (it was not a master link). Then I produced a spare Quick Link from that little plastic bag, temporarily connected the chain, then kicked the drive side pedal from the top. The Quick Link locked immediately and it is how you do it.

I think you misunderstand me. A master link is a necessary spare part. My point is, both Quick/Master Link are re-useable. You don't toss a link into the bin each time you've disconnected the chain. Same, as you don't toss a good inner tube after replacing a tyre on your wheel.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Steve, the chain does not fail that often. It last failed last Winter when I was on a ride in Warsaw. Well, i got into a railway station building. I didn't have the TL-CN10 with me. Using a chain tool, I removed a failed chain link (it was not a master link). Then I produced a spare Quick Link from that little plastic bag, temporarily connected the chain, then kicked the drive side pedal from the top. The Quick Link locked immediately and it is how you do it.

I think you misunderstand me. A master link is a necessary spare part. My point is, both Quick/Master Link are re-useable. You don't toss a link into the bin each time you've disconnected the chain. Same, as you don't toss a good inner tube after replacing a tyre on your wheel.

see I have never had a failed chain. in the over 60,000 miles riding.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

see I have never had a failed chain. in the over 60,000 miles riding.

I had a failed chain on one of the first rides on my first e-bike (a hub drive one). I didn't even know what the "chain tool" meant at that time.

The fact you have never had a failed chain does not mean the Quick Link is not reusable

 

[michaelbrown12319]

Man went on the first ride, and shifting was good— a lot less clunky than the Linkglide. Plus, I can display the gear on my Garmin, and that’s critical on the tandem. For some reason, it took a long time to realize what was happening. But on the tandem with the motor in front, if I am coasting or stopped and in too large of a cog and starting slow so I can shift, it causes stress on the ne way gearing, the motor, and you hear a whining sound. I found I can either shift way down, as I don’t know what gear I am in for that speed, or have my wife do the first pedal stroke. But now that I can see what gear I am in, I can make sure I am low enough when I stop or if I am coasting to shift, or have my wife start if I am not in a low enough gear. It was so much better and may save the motor.

So cool that the ride went well, now that you can monitor the gear, i think you could be able to build the habit of downshifting before you stop, right? That alone could make a difference in how smooth and quiet the bike feels

 

[fooferdoggie]

So cool that the ride went well, now that you can monitor the gear, i think you could be able to build the habit of downshifting before you stop, right? That alone could make a difference in how smooth and quiet the bike feels

I always did that if possible, but how far is the issue? It's the 3rd cog I need if I am fully stopped, but the 4th or 5th if I am moving at all. So now I know when I am coasting what gear I am in. On a regular bike, you can lightly pedal to know, but on this tandem, that caused issues with the bosch motor if it was too high. so now if I can't get in that gear, I jsut tell my wife to start peddling and it works well.