Geared or not geared That is the question

Tigertone

Member
Region
United Kingdom
Now that I have overcome the alignment problems with my rear hub motor and the installation is progressing at a pace. The question that's driving me now is: How can I tell weather the motor is geared or a direct drive and, how will this effect my riding approach that maximises my pleasure and ease of driving and which system. Direct drive or geared drive is the most preferable.?
 
From my limited experience, they look a lot different for starters. I almost chose a bike with direct drive (the Rad City) but changed my mind when I realized it didn't have the torque of a geared motor so wouldn't be as good on hills. I bought the Rad Rover instead.
 
Now that I have overcome the alignment problems with my rear hub motor and the installation is progressing at a pace. The question that's driving me now is: How can I tell weather the motor is geared or a direct drive and, how will this effect my riding approach that maximises my pleasure and ease of driving and which system. Direct drive or geared drive is the most preferable.?
The direct drive hub is generally bigger and heavier than the gear drive. Difference will be obvious to anyone with any experience. Just post a pic....
 
Now that I have overcome the alignment problems with my rear hub motor and the installation is progressing at a pace. The question that's driving me now is: How can I tell weather the motor is geared or a direct drive and, how will this effect my riding approach that maximises my pleasure and ease of driving and which system. Direct drive or geared drive is the most preferable.?
Post a pic of the motor
 
From my limited experience, they look a lot different for starters. I almost chose a bike with direct drive (the Rad City) but changed my mind when I realized it didn't have the torque of a geared motor so wouldn't be as good on hills. I bought the Rad Rover instead.
 

Attachments

  • 20230305_095224.jpg
    20230305_095224.jpg
    18.4 KB · Views: 160
Is the fact that it's quite chubby an indication that it's got gears in.vThe reason I am not sure is because when I bought it I was just told that the motor was toothed
 
Is the fact that it's quite chubby an indication that it's got gears in.vThe reason I am not sure is because when I bought it I was just told that the motor was toothed
Yes, I would lay odds that it is a geared hub. They are usually smaller in circumference and fatter.
Hubs.jpg

Direct drive on left, geared on right.
 
Last edited:
Gear drive has more starting torque, direct drive has fewer parts and the possibility of regenerative braking. Not the best time to ask after you bought the parts.
 
Lift the wheel off the ground. A geared motor requires a lot more force to turn the wheel backwards than forward, because you are going thru both the gears and the motor. When you ride the bike, you're going forward, so there is no problem.
.
Meanwhile, a direct drive motor will "cog" in either direction as you have to overcome the motor drag from the magnets. Cogging is heavier on the bigger motors with bigger magnets. When riding the bike, the effect is lessened because of the momentum of the bike.
.
I thought about this when I bought a motor for my first conversion, I decided less drag when pedalling w.o power and enjoy coasting. Geared motors for me. When 1000W motor kits were avaialble for $149 in 2017, I almost bought one just to experience how they work. I had spare geared motors sitting around then , so another motor was no big deal, but I felt I would never use it,
 
Gear drive has more starting torque, direct drive has fewer parts and the possibility of regenerative braking. Not the best time to ask after you bought the parts.
True, yes I should have asked about the gearing but the price was very good and he said it was toothed. Anyway, I think we all agree, it is almost definitely a small 36v 250w geared motor. I guess whe I finally power the motor up I should hear a whirring noise when I start peddling which will be coming from the gears turning.
 
I've got an old 36 volt 250 Watt direct drive ebike. (note the big skinny motor.)

20221204_152450.jpg


I really like how it regenerates.
If I'm going downhill or coming to a stop I'll pull a brake lever a little bit to activate the regeneration.
I like seeing the voltage shoot up to 42 volts.
I'm getting all that energy back instead of wasting it.

I didn't know about the drag when you are pedaling without assist?
I'll see if I can feel it next time I'm on it.
 
I've got an old 36 volt 250 Watt direct drive ebike. (note the big skinny motor.)

View attachment 148759

I really like how it regenerates.
If I'm going downhill or coming to a stop I'll pull a brake lever a little bit to activate the regeneration.
I like seeing the voltage shoot up to 42 volts.
I'm getting all that energy back instead of wasting it.

I didn't know about the drag when you are pedaling without assist?
I'll see if I can feel it next time I'm on it.
Thanks for your response,sounds like you have a good bike. This is my second bike conversion. Mine was a mid drive Tongshend 48v 750w and the one I'm converting now is a rear hub, 36v 250w.
 
Thanks for your response,sounds like you have a good bike.

Actually it's a worn out piece of crap but it's a blast to ride.
It was $400 used about 8 years ago but came with new batteries. (lead acid)
It weighs almost 100 pounds with the batteries. The brakes and front suspension forks are completely shot. The forks move front and back, and side to side more than they move in and out. 😂

The thing is all over the road and has a huge speed wobble as soon as you let go of the handlebars. Then when I load 70 pounds of groceries in the box, it's almost uncontrollable.
That's when it's fun to ride. It really tests your abilities. 😂

It is a fricken tank though, and it just keeps going.
It's from Europe so it's got a 25 kph limiter on it. The power cuts out at 22 kph, then the regeneration kicks in at 25 kph. It doesn't matter how hard you pedal, it won't go any faster. It does charge up the battery though, and that's the part I like.
If I touch the brake just enough to activate the brake switch, then the regeneration kicks in and I see the voltmeter jump up.

I bought a new ebike that I will take much better care of, but it's still fun to hop on the old one and kick the snot out of it. 😂

This is my second bike conversion. Mine was a mid drive Tongshend 48v 750w and the one I'm converting now is a rear hub, 36v 250w.

This is my new ebike.
48v 750w rear geared hub motor with a 21ah battery, and another 25ah battery on the way.

20221110_124942.jpg
 
Actually it's a worn out piece of crap but it's a blast to ride.
It was $400 used about 8 years ago but came with new batteries. (lead acid)
It weighs almost 100 pounds with the batteries. The brakes and front suspension forks are completely shot. The forks move front and back, and side to side more than they move in and out. 😂

The thing is all over the road and has a huge speed wobble as soon as you let go of the handlebars. Then when I load 70 pounds of groceries in the box, it's almost uncontrollable.
That's when it's fun to ride. It really tests your abilities. 😂

It is a fricken tank though, and it just keeps going.
It's from Europe so it's got a 25 kph limiter on it. The power cuts out at 22 kph, then the regeneration kicks in at 25 kph. It doesn't matter how hard you pedal, it won't go any faster. It does charge up the battery though, and that's the part I like.
If I touch the brake just enough to activate the brake switch, then the regeneration kicks in and I see the voltmeter jump up.

I bought a new ebike that I will take much better care of, but it's still fun to hop on the old one and kick the snot out of it. 😂



This is my new ebike.
48v 750w rear geared hub motor with a 21ah battery, and another 25ah battery on the way.

View attachment 148794
Sounds like you've had your money's worth out of the guy but there again, perhaps with a bit of TLC you can continue using it to collect your grocery's. Hope you're pleased with your new acquisition.
 
Back