Front brake rubbing.

tlippy

tlippy

Active Member
I could when hear rubbing while peddling. Tried the fix,; loosen the 2 bolts, squeeze the brakes, tighten the bolts while keeping pressure on the brake lever.. Didn't help. Today I removed the wheel, inserted a plastic bar between the pads and opened fully. This worked. JFYI
 
Does that mean you have to shove a piece of plastic in there every time you use the brake? I'd suggest you have a sticking piston if those are hydraulic. It's likely going to take more work than just shoving the piston back one time.
 
rich c said:
Does that mean you have to shove a piece of plastic in there every time you use the brake? I'd suggest you have a sticking piston if those are hydraulic. It's likely going to take more work than just shoving the piston back one time.
Click to expand...
Not every time. One time fix
 
if it just started rubbing and they are hydrolic brakes it could be one piston sticking. then the spacer helps.
 

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tlippy said:
Does only one side of the pads move? Pinches the rotor?
Click to expand...
The braking force is generated by the pads 'pinching' the rotors. For mechanical disc brakes just one pad moves pinching the rotor between it and the stationary pad. For hydraulics both pads move from the force of pistons pushing the pads into the rotor. As the pads wear the pistons retract less and less far into their seats effectively making the brakes self adjusting. This does require the pistons to be reset when changing pads or the new pads may not even fit between the extended pistons and rotor. Mechanical disc brakes must be periodically adjusted to maintain proper pad/rotor clearances.
 
Took my 700 to a LBS to get the spokes adjusted. I was able to get the F spokes adjusted with a spoke tension tool myself but the rears were very loose and I wanted to make sure they were in spec. When I went to pick up the bike there was a $15 charge to adjust the F brake. I had spent 2 days trying to get the rub out of the F pads to no avail. End result: The F rotor was slightly bent. JFYI; Cost was $40 for the rear spokes, $20 for the F wheel and $15 for the brake fix. I really wanted to have some rapport with a LBS and also get their comments on my 700. They are a Trek dealer. "your bike is a lot nicer than most of the onliners I see" was as good as I got. It's difficult to compare a mid drive with a hub but a comparable Trek class 3 was $5000. I sure am proud of my 700.
 
@tlippy I had thought you'd resolved the brake rubbing issue or I would have suggested a generic version of Park Tool's Rotor Truing Fork DT-2C. For about the price of the brake tune up you can add a generic truing fork and a piston press to your tool kit that make brake servicing much easier. This Park Tool video covers rotor truing, including use of their truing gauge. Personally, I don't own a truing gauge. I can almost always get a rotor straightened by eye using the flashlight and white paper techniques in the video. In the few cases I couldn't I install a new rotor; cheaper than having the LBS use the 'advanced techniques' covered in the video!

I know this is 'closing the barn door after the horses are out' as they say, but maybe it'll help in the future.

Anyway, glad to hear your issues are resolved. Ride On!...😎
 
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