First ride with the Archon X1 upgrade!

[pushkar]

Yes, definitely resolvable. Firmware upgrade will enable it.

However we have not had good luck with bringing 60V down to 12V without significant issues. Infact the current Bafang step down also contributes to that issue partially in the stock(bafang) controller.

In the interim, we will ship the KTV smart light with orders for motors.

That being said, the real way to resolve this is to do it right. I am working on a unified light + controller harness that will solve multiple problems - have higher power output for front light, brake function for rear lights, standard IP67 rated connectors, have a power output for phone charging, extra outputs if needed.

Pretty cool design - and hope to have something over the coming months. No need to fiddle with brakes, random connectors etc etc - just get the single cable and we are good.

 

[onlineaddy]

Great to hear that you're already working on a do-it-right solution. Why am I not surprised?

 

[byunbee]

Yes, definitely resolvable. Firmware upgrade will enable it.

However we have not had good luck with bringing 60V down to 12V without significant issues. Infact the current Bafang step down also contributes to that issue partially in the stock(bafang) controller.

In the interim, we will ship the KTV smart light with orders for motors.

That being said, the real way to resolve this is to do it right. I am working on a unified light + controller harness that will solve multiple problems - have higher power output for front light, brake function for rear lights, standard IP67 rated connectors, have a power output for phone charging, extra outputs if needed.

Pretty cool design - and hope to have something over the coming months. No need to fiddle with brakes, random connectors etc etc - just get the single cable and we are good.

Will this be ready for the initial launch of the new UC Pro?

 

[pushkar]

Will this be ready for the initial launch of the new UC Pro?

The new UC Pro has supernova on it - and those cables work already.

This is for non-supernova lights for the base version.

 

[Man Without Shadow]

Finally got mine installed. Found a crank extractor in my Luna tool kit as well as bottom bracket tool to get the chainring spider off. Neither were ideal. The crank extractor was missing a plug so I needed to improvise inserting a long piece of metal thru the hollow spindle which I capped at the other end. The bottom bracket tool worked to get the spider off but required LOT of patience and elbow grease. Really needed a socket type tool to have more leverage without slipping off easily.. If anyone is swapping motors as opposed to swapping controllers I would definitely recommend getting the appropriate tools to remove the cranks and spider, not these:

Finally finished up at 3AM in the morning. It is raining today so won't be able to provide more impressions for now but took it out for a short ride before going to bed. My initial impression is that pedal lag is still there. I was expecting more of an immediate response when applying pressure to the pedals. Once the power kicks in it's definitely smoother, with no annoying oscillating power delivery. I could not test throttle as my throttle cable has a short (noticed this before swapping motors). I did not ride for long as it was pitch black and I could not get my lights to work. Only to realize when I came in and read the important notes before going to bed...

At the moment the controller does not support headlight or tail light output due to signal interference issues. We are working on it but this is a 2021 item.

I must have glossed over this nugget when ordering. A bit bummed about riding for the rest of 2020 without functioning brake lights. Will be easier to come up with a makeshift front light.

Can you show/link the proper tools please?

 

[pushkar]

I am about to put up a landing page but here is the process

Tools -

1. Safety Ring Removal tool (updated with link from tom). Here is the Lezyne tool link
2. Park Tools ISIS Crank Puller

3. Youtube video link

 

[byunbee]

The new UC Pro has supernova on it - and those cables work already.

This is for non-supernova lights for the base version.

@pushkar, Ok...I'm getting a little confused here. Here's what I understand. The new UCP Pro (non-base version) comes with Supernova M99 Pro that's wired directly to the battery and NOT the controller. Maybe I misunderstood what you're trying to accomplish. According to this statement, " At the moment the controller does not support headlight or tail light output due to signal interference issues. We are working on it but this is a 2021 item. ", I thought that you were trying to figure out a way to route the light power through the controller, so that the lights can be controlled via the display. I assumed that resolving this issue would apply to both the Lezyne and SuperNova lights.

Are you saying the this would only be for the non-SuperNova lights and for Supernova lights, nothing will or needs to be changed?

 

[pushkar]

@pushkar, Ok...I'm getting a little confused here. Here's what I understand. The new UCP Pro (non-base version) comes with Supernova M99 Pro that's wired directly to the battery and NOT the controller. Maybe I misunderstood what you're trying to accomplish. According to this statement, " At the moment the controller does not support headlight or tail light output due to signal interference issues. We are working on it but this is a 2021 item. ", I thought that you were trying to figure out a way to route the light power through the controller, so that the lights can be controlled via the display. I assumed that resolving this issue would apply to both the Lezyne and SuperNova lights.

Are you saying the this would only be for the non-SuperNova lights and for Supernova lights, nothing will or needs to be changed?

Good question

1. We will not route the light wire through the controller.

2. The brake cut offs work with the new controller - that functionality will remain as is.

3. Supernova (and the new harness) will be wired directly to the battery, but will work off the same brake cable signal to provide the brake light functionliaty. The added bonus is that now you can put a powerful head lights instead of dim ones.

4. This new cable will have its own switch (or in case of Supernova, auto switch based on motion sensing). The bafang light toggle doesn't work cleanly so far on this new cable.

 

[onlineaddy]

What about the rear light for the new UCPro: how will it be connected? Wired directly to the battery as well? How will that shut off; is there motion sensing for the rear light as well?

 

[pushkar]

What about the rear light for the new UCPro: how will it be connected? Wired directly to the battery as well? How will that shut off; is there motion sensing for the rear light as well?

The supernova headlight manages that. So it’s motion sensing and also brake sensing.

 

[TomD]

1. Lezyne Safety Ring Removal tool

There was a typo in your link for the Lezyne tool. I fixed the link in the quote above. I am told this works as well and slightly cheaper / ship faster on Amazon:

Amazon.com : BikeHand Bicycle Bottom Bracket Removal Crank Tool - Compatible with Shimano Hollowtech II 16-Notch 44mm External BB : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : BikeHand Bicycle Bottom Bracket Removal Crank Tool - Compatible with Shimano Hollowtech II 16-Notch 44mm External BB : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[TomD]

Also, a word of warning removing the safety ring. I pulled off my motor before removing it which was a big mistake. This made it almost impossible to get the safety ring off as I could get no leverage on the motor, compound by having a tool that would slip off easily. I should have done this before removing the motor, and used a chain whip to keep the chainring from moving. I ended up sticking a long screwdriver thru one of the motor mounting bolts jutting out far enough to prevent the spider from moving. Then I put bubble wrap around the motor, tucked it under the sofa to keep the motor from moving, and eventually got the safety ring off after applying my entire body weight. I think I might have bent my spider in the process, which involved another hour of work to bend it back in place when I noticed my chainring had a slight warp when spinning.

 

[pushkar]

Yup, that's why i highlighted removing the safety ring first before removing the left crank arm. The left crank arm acts as a leverage.

 

[TomD]

Good to know. I also tightened the safety ring before I put the cranks on. I was so tired I wasn't thinking clearly and resorted to another (dumb) screwdriver method to keep the cranks from spinning. I am a glutton for punishment when it comes to bike maintenance and repair.

 

[Ebiker33]

Great feedback in this thread.
I know some of you never paid this much, but for a person that owns another brand, in your opinions is the $800 upgrade worth it?

 

[pennybags]

Great feedback in this thread.
I know some of you never paid this much, but for a person that owns another brand, in your opinions is the $800 upgrade worth it?

Personally speaking it is worth it if you want to keep the bike for longer than 1 year. The entire experience is smooth, it will be configurable when my cable is here, and the support has been excellent.

For me it’s not just the controller but also the company. They are standing behind the product, have an active product development path, and are planning to add features I always needed. It’s better than me fiddling with a phase runner and hoping and praying that it works. As an example - the phase runner is $295 plus all non supported fiddling to make it work, with no future feature path.

Archon is a no-brainer. Yes it’s probably a tad higher but IMO you are getting what you pay for.

 

[TomD]

Weather cleared so was able to take the new motor out for another test ride.

Motor was making strange clicking noises when it cut in and out while pedaling lightly. so I came back home to grab phone to take a video. This seemed to fix the problem. I'll leave phone at home to see if it starts up again. I think the motor was just breaking in.

For some reason my motor seems louder than the one it replaced. Might just be that it's new and will quiet down with break in.

The lag I experienced last night seems to be more a byproduct of the smoother torque sensing than actual lag. From a dead stop there is minimal lag. I only notice a little lag when I'm pedaling slowly and the motor hasn't kicked and I start to push harder on the pedals. But it's actually quite pleasant and seems to help blend in the torque smoothly as opposed to jerky. I am noticing while pedaling that the motor kicks in and out much more frquently than with the stock controller. Not sure if this is what helps with efficiency, with the stock controller the motor seemed to be working more frequently.

I have the 2300 watt version and anything but Eco PAS 1 feels crazy powerful. When I get my programming cable I will for sure tune it back to 1000W. Then again maybe I will be addicted to the power by then.

Pedaling up a steep hill I was really happy with the toruqe sensing. Normally I'm frustrated by the power osciallting in and out and providing too much power, then too little, but the new controller does a great job. Not sure if it's to the level of a refined euor spec motor, it actually seems closer to a hybrid cadence/torque sensing, but I kind of prefer the mix as it's a smoother experience.

 

[pushkar]

Weather cleared so was able to take the new motor out for another test ride.

Motor was making strange clicking noises when it cut in and out while pedaling lightly. so I came back home to grab phone to take a video. This seemed to fix the problem. I'll leave phone at home to see if it starts up again. I think the motor was just breaking in.

For some reason my motor seems louder than the one it replaced. Might just be that it's new and will quiet down with break in.

The lag I experienced last night seems to be more a byproduct of the smoother torque sensing than actual lag. From a dead stop there is minimal lag. I only notice a little lag when I'm pedaling slowly and the motor hasn't kicked and I start to push harder on the pedals. But it's actually quite pleasant and seems to help blend in the torque smoothly as opposed to jerky. I am noticing while pedaling that the motor kicks in and out much more frquently than with the stock controller. Not sure if this is what helps with efficiency, with the stock controller the motor seemed to be working more frequently.

I have the 2300 watt version and anything but Eco PAS 1 feels crazy powerful. When I get my programming cable I will for sure tune it back to 1000W. Then again maybe I will be addicted to the power by then.

Pedaling up a steep hill I was really happy with the toruqe sensing. Normally I'm frustrated by the power osciallting in and out and providing too much power, then too little, but the new controller does a great job. Not sure if it's to the level of a refined euor spec motor, it actually seems closer to a hybrid cadence/torque sensing, but I kind of prefer the mix as it's a smoother experience.

@tomdav, @Ayl, @BillyDeeFour and @TomW are early “influencers”.

I was holding my breath for this. Phew. . I can somewhat safely push out more marketing stuff now


Please continue to provide feedback. We will continue to improve the controller with more refinements.

I’d be curious to see what type of efficiencies you all are getting.
@Ayl and @tomdav yoguys are right- the PAS1 is plenty for most regular riding scenarios.

Edit:
/end gloating

 

[Ebiker33]

Yes thank you to all the Prosumers in this thread

Is it true that in the future you will be able to go even further in tuning the motor to a personal riding style like the Specialized App allows you too?
I thought Pushkar said that might be coming in another thread.

 

[TomD]

I’d be curious to see what type of efficiencies you all are getting.

It's going to be hard for me to gauge as I have only ridden monitoring battery indicator (too lazy to do the voltage math). Due to glitch I was sent controller calibrated for 52V battery so my battery indicator is wonky and I will need to switch mentality to monitoring voltage. I have a monster hill on my way home and over time have leared to ensure my display never dropped much below 50% (not sure what voltage that was) as the last hill would literally sap that 50% down to 20% by the time I got home. Any idea what voltage corresponds to 50% battery on the stock controller / display?