excited new rider and a few questions

W

winkawak

New Member
Heres alittle background story of my situation. I ordered my XP back in mid April, few days later 2.0 was announced so i placed the order for the upgrade. Due to covid shipping was delayed til mid July. When my bike was finally shipped couple days later i received an email stating warehouse double order mistake so the bikes had to be return back in route. I was alittle mad they couldnt just return one but had to return both. Almost another 2 weeks of waiting my bike finally came in. Everything was great except a nice couple inch of paint broken off at the hinge where the bike folds. I contacted Lectric and they sent me a paint pen which im not sure it wis going to fix my problem.

This is my first Ebike, i got a couple questions if you guys can help me out.

1. I noticed after shifting to 4th or 5th gear i keep hearing clicking sound coming from the rear, is this normal?

2. Right hand brake has abit more resistance than the left, how do i correct this?

3. How loose are the chains suppose to be? compared to regular bike chain tension seems to the loose side. Is this normal?
 
1. Should not click, find the thumb screw at the end of your shifter cable nearest to the rear wheel at the derailleur. Rotate it 1/2 turn in either direction. If that fixes it your done, if not turn one full turn in the opposite direction. Tip: use some white out to mark a small dot on the screw at the top and another across from it on the cable, that way you can find the starting point should you get too far off.
2. Find the thumb screws on the brake cable nearest the brake lever, slightly loosen the larger diameter one closest to the lever (it locks the the other one in place) then turn the smaller one a half turn too see if there is improvement, if not then turn one turn in the opposite direction. The adjustment is personal preference as long as the brake does not rub when the brake lever is at rest and does engage the brake when the lever is pulled.
3. The chain is just fine. The idle pulley is spring loaded to keep the proper tension.
 
Johny Rocket said:
1. Should not click, find the thumb screw at the end of your shifter cable nearest to the rear wheel at the derailleur. Rotate it 1/2 turn in either direction. If that fixes it your done, if not turn one full turn in the opposite direction. Tip: use some white out to mark a small dot on the screw at the top and another across from it on the cable, that way you can find the starting point should you get too far off.
2. Find the thumb screws on the brake cable nearest the brake lever, slightly loosen the larger diameter one closest to the lever (it locks the the other one in place) then turn the smaller one a half turn too see if there is improvement, if not then turn one turn in the opposite direction. The adjustment is personal preference as long as the brake does not rub when the brake lever is at rest and does engage the brake when the lever is pulled.
3. The chain is just fine. The idle pulley is spring loaded to keep the proper tension.
Click to expand...
Thanks ill definitely try that once i get off work. I rode about half a mile
with it clicking, hope i didnt damage anything. I got a reply back from Lectric regarding the click, rep told me its the fender….
 
1) Put it in fourth gear and see that the chain is aligned with the fourth cog. Use the barrel adjuster. Tuning it out will move it closer to 3. In closer to 5. When it looks right at 4 shift back and fourth between 3 to 4 and 4 to 5 a few times. When it is right it will be smooth and sound good.
2) Just like @Johny Rocket said. Many bikes also have one at the brake.
3) When in the highest gear it should look like this, but if the factory used too many links, and this can happen, than the guide wheel will be lower on the tensioner.
1628539545808.png
 
winkawak said:
yea the knob i was talking about is same as the picture u posted. Is there a difference between cable top end and bottom cable end barrel adjuster?
Click to expand...
Bike mechanics use the lower one and save the top one for the rider to use. They do the same thing. As cables stretch a rider can adjust the upper one while riding.
 
PedalUma said:
Bike mechanics use the lower one and save the top one for the rider to use. They do the same thing. As cables stretch a rider can adjust the upper one while riding.
Click to expand...
Okay i finally had the chance to adjust and try it out. So the results are no matter what kind oif adjustment i make i get click/rattle in certain gears only difference being constant click/rattle or intermittent click or rattle. Also its weird gear would only start cl9cking/rattle when you up shift to the gear but not downshift.
 
Put down a couple of blocks the distance of the handlebar grips then flip the bike upside down, setting the grips on the blocks. Make your adjustments this way. You can look straight down to see that things are aligned.
If no matter what you do it does not shift properly then the derailleur hanger is not aligned because it got bumped.
This is why I prefer internally geared hubs such as Alfine/Nexus for commuter bikes with mid-drive motors. Bikes on public transportation such as trains are vulnerable to getting their derailleurs bumped.
 
winkawak said:
Okay i finally had the chance to adjust and try it out. So the results are no matter what kind oif adjustment i make i get click/rattle in certain gears only difference being constant click/rattle or intermittent click or rattle. Also its weird gear would only start cl9cking/rattle when you up shift to the gear but not downshift.
Click to expand...
what pedaling recommends above is the way. the clicking is likely the chain stuck between the gears rather than on them. if you don’t feel comfortable or competent adjusting the shifting based in watching the linked video then next option is a bike shop. but it’s really worth your time learning how to do these adjustments and other like brakes, yourself. saves a lot of time. video tutorials on these adjustments will serve you better than any text based post will…. be resourceful and take advantage of youtube and watch as many as needed to understand the principles and the practice of using them and you’ll be empowered and self-reliant in the end. good luck!
 
Check and see if the derailleur will physically move far enough to engage the upper gears before it hits the derailleur guard loop. On both of the bikes I just received, the derailleur guards are so badly bent that one bike wouldn't go into 5-7 and the other would get into 2nd, maybe 3rd, but not 4-7. I used a very large adjustable wrench to bend the guards outward and make room for the derailleur. Then, adjust the derailleur.

-Mike
 
FloridaNative said:
Check and see if the derailleur will physically move far enough to engage the upper gears before it hits the derailleur guard loop. On both of the bikes I just received, the derailleur guards are so badly bent that one bike wouldn't go into 5-7 and the other would get into 2nd, maybe 3rd, but not 4-7. I used a very large adjustable wrench to bend the guards outward and make room for the derailleur. Then, adjust the derailleur.

-Mike
Click to expand...
Sounds like the guards did their thing.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, i will try to check it out soon as i can but yesterday on my off day i spent about 2 mile riding back and forth testing all barrel adjustment setting lol. I hope i did not do any damage. Anyway just physically looking at the derailleur i noticed this shape but its hard to see from the picture so i drew the shape out.
 

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winkawak said:
Thanks for the advice guys, i will try to check it out soon as i can but yesterday on my off day i spent about 2 mile riding back and forth testing all barrel adjustment setting lol. I hope i did not do any damage. Anyway just physically looking at the derailleur i noticed this shape but its hard to see from the picture so i drew the shape out.
Click to expand...
as others have previously posted, it sounds from your description thst indexing adjustment is needed.
press through this entire page, watch the videos and then decide if this is something you feel capable of doing or if you need a shop. none of this is particularly complicated, but you need to be resourceful and in self help mode. we can’t guide you through the screen. you’ll need to understand the concepts of how it works ss what might make it work less well.

www.parktool.com

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

The article will discuss adjustment of rear derailleur limit screws and indexing.
www.parktool.com www.parktool.com

see #3 in the limo above for overview of indexing adjustment. if only certain gears are affected.
youh photo seems to show no obvious damage to the derailleur, that’s good, the derailleur need to line up like thst for each of the 7gesrs correctly… this is easier done in a bike stand or with bike upside down than by riding it, so you can visually see any misalignment and see the corrections you’re making.
 
Im not worried of it being hard, i posted the picture wondering if thats how the derailleur should align with middle piece slightly bending inward. I will definitely get it adjusted once im off. Thanks for helping everyone.
 
It is too far in. Cable tension needs to be loosened. This is done by turning the barrel adjuster in.
 
PedalUma said:
It is too far in. Cable tension needs to be loosened. This is done by turning the barrel adjuster in.
Click to expand...
i dont think its the barrel adjuster at this point, i try every setting and still clicks in random gears. The picture you have to zoom in, i drew red line of the derailleur alignment. Top and bottom chain from the back looks aligned somewhat but the piece in the middle between the chain is bending inward. Just few more days till im off to do a full adjustment.
 
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