ET Cycle T1000 throttle on handle
- Thread starter ONYXSIM
- Start date
m@Robertson
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Show us the throttle and its connector, unplugged. Nobody is going to have a clue what your seller used but its most likely a reasonably standard throttle with a variation on the plug end.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I managed to hook up this throttle to my T1000.
I cut the connector off the factory throttle and soldered the wires to it.
Bike Throttle Grip, Plastic Electric Bicycle Right Twist Throttle for Folding Bike Scooter 22.5MM Handlebar https://a.co/d/7uXLIP8
It worked, but it had the same problem as the factory "quick" throttle.
It was essentially just an on off switch. The slightest engagement of the throttle and the bike went to full power.
I ended up installing a KT controller and display which allows me to turn down the power.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It makes me understand that the problem does not come from the throttle but from the controller. I assume that with the new control you must have several new adjustments. If you want to share, what model of new controller you installed and the improvements you can see.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
The problem is with the programming of the Das-Kit Controller and display, with most of it (if not all of it) being in the display.
I tried an Off-road Das-Kit display from New Zealand because it offered Eco, Power, and Normal modes, but it was no different. The T1000 is locked in Power mode and I thought that being able to turn it down to ECO mode would make it less twitchy.
The programming for the throttle and PAS modes are speed based and it's not possible to turn down the power.
I installed a 25 amp KT sinewave controller and matching KT display.
Unfortunately, our T1000 has a larger motor cable and connector to accommodate the larger motor, and the motor cable from the KT controller wouldn't plug in.
The larger Das-Kit motor cable connector is proprietary and I couldn't find one anywhere, so I cut the motor cable off my Das-Kit Controller and soldered it directly into my new KT controller.
The installation turned into a huge chore, and I wouldn't have attempted it if I had known that the motor cable wouldn't connect, but it's finished now and I'm glad that I did it.
The KT controller/display has what they call "Imitation Torque Control", which is power based instead of speed based.
I have "throttle gears" now instead of PAS modes, and I can go as slow as 3 kph with a bit of throttle in speed gear 1.
The KT installation replaces essentially all the electronics except battery and motor. It's like doing an engine swap on a car. It was really involved. The hardest part for me was trying to make everything fit without looking too trashy. I had to fabricate a lot of things to make it work.
Here's a link that covers a lot of what I did,..
electricbikereview.com
I remember when I installed the Das-Kit Off-road display, I turned the PAS modes down to 20 kph and set my throttle to 6 kph.
I had my twist throttle installed and just gave it a tiny bit of throttle, and fricken bike just launched.
It was going over 13 kph before it could even register how fast it was going, then it settled the speed down to 6 kph.
That's when I decided that I'm done with Das-Kit and bought the KT conversion kit.
I could have just learned to deal with it, but I found it so irritating and stupid that I wanted something else.
I tried an Off-road Das-Kit display from New Zealand because it offered Eco, Power, and Normal modes, but it was no different. The T1000 is locked in Power mode and I thought that being able to turn it down to ECO mode would make it less twitchy.
The programming for the throttle and PAS modes are speed based and it's not possible to turn down the power.
I installed a 25 amp KT sinewave controller and matching KT display.
Unfortunately, our T1000 has a larger motor cable and connector to accommodate the larger motor, and the motor cable from the KT controller wouldn't plug in.
The larger Das-Kit motor cable connector is proprietary and I couldn't find one anywhere, so I cut the motor cable off my Das-Kit Controller and soldered it directly into my new KT controller.
The installation turned into a huge chore, and I wouldn't have attempted it if I had known that the motor cable wouldn't connect, but it's finished now and I'm glad that I did it.
The KT controller/display has what they call "Imitation Torque Control", which is power based instead of speed based.
I have "throttle gears" now instead of PAS modes, and I can go as slow as 3 kph with a bit of throttle in speed gear 1.
The KT installation replaces essentially all the electronics except battery and motor. It's like doing an engine swap on a car. It was really involved. The hardest part for me was trying to make everything fit without looking too trashy. I had to fabricate a lot of things to make it work.
Here's a link that covers a lot of what I did,..
Alternative Display and Controller for NCM (DAS-KIT)
Wanting to increase the PAS Max speed on my NCM bike I be quite satisfied with around 30-35kmh it currently 25kmh The Das-Kit system appears to be complete locked down so I'm considering if Sourcing a alternate KT display and controller that would plug and play with the current hub motor...
electricbikereview.com
I remember when I installed the Das-Kit Off-road display, I turned the PAS modes down to 20 kph and set my throttle to 6 kph.
I had my twist throttle installed and just gave it a tiny bit of throttle, and fricken bike just launched.
It was going over 13 kph before it could even register how fast it was going, then it settled the speed down to 6 kph.
That's when I decided that I'm done with Das-Kit and bought the KT conversion kit.
I could have just learned to deal with it, but I found it so irritating and stupid that I wanted something else.
I read the link on the control improvements you made, Wow, that seems like a big challenge. The result is very good since you can now make all the adjustments you want.
How much do you estimate all the modifications you have made?
I am not ready to make all these changes, my T1000 is still on warranty. But I will surely try in the meantime to improve the accelerator to make it better by modifying the voltage which enters the controller.
How much do you estimate all the modifications you have made?
I am not ready to make all these changes, my T1000 is still on warranty. But I will surely try in the meantime to improve the accelerator to make it better by modifying the voltage which enters the controller.
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
Most people (almost everyone else) wants to get their T1000 to go faster with more power.
I didn't, and still don't. I just wanted to control the power.
I wanted to turn it WAY down and go really easy on my battery, motor, controller and even my tires and brakes.
I wanted to go as far as possible without pedaling.
My KT controller/display still limits my speed to 32 kph which is enough to hurt myself, so that's good for me.
I'm more comfortable with wiping out at 20 kph.
I was standing on my pedals today going no-hands with the seat pinched between my knees.
I used to wipe out my skateboard at 20 kph, so I'm comfortable with that speed.
This is what I bought,..
As well as a thumb throttle for about ten bucks, or a twist throttle for about $30.
The original cadence sensor can be reused and I think the wires are long enough to reach into the KT controller?
(I didn't hook up my cadence sensor. I refuse to pedal unless I have to.
)(Those are Canadian dollars, so about ten bucks USD.
)I didn't get the best deal on the controller.
I thought I was buying an ORIGINAL KT controller from Kunteng, but that wasn't the case.
There were other KT controllers that cost ~$63, and included the 1-5 cable.
My bike would be under warranty until November, but I voided the warranty the day it arrived.
My Das-Kit battery already screwed up and wouldn't wake up after it went to sleep. The button on the battery stopped working. I only had the battery 6 months and charged it ~7 times.
I fixed it myself.
Now I know how it works. Lol
It Won't Work !!
The throttle plugs into the display. That's where all the programming is.
The controller may be a 100% slave to the display with Das-Kit?
The throttle output must be more than ~0.8 volts, and less than ~4.3 or you'll get a throttle fault.
At around 1 volt the throttle is recognized as being ON.
Then the speed based programming turns the power to FULL, perhaps even 22 amps to get you to the first throttle speed setting of 6 kph.
The guy from the store in New Zealand that sold me the C7 off-road Das-Kit display said that you can't go slow or you'll burn out the motor.
I said I'm not going to burn out my motor giving it less than 100 Watts with a KT controller/display.
I got my money back for the display, but I still lost over $100 on shipping and duty charges.
This thread covers a lot of details that I've already forgotten,..
ET T1000 run on question.
i have a new ET T1000 i just got it yesterday. the bike has about 1 1/2-2 second run-on. once you stop pedaling the motor still pushes you forward for that couple of seconds. this has caught me off guard a couple of times. one of those times crashing into the garbage cans. do all T1000 do...
electricbikereview.com
My Et.Cycle T1000 cost me $2,800 CAD all in when I bought it last October.
I just did a full tally of all the fancy fun stuff that I've purchased to go along with it, and my grand total is over $5,900 CAD.
From $200 Tannus tire liners to $100 Mr Tuffy tire liners, to $50 Flat Out, to my new rechargeable 6000 mah tire inflator.
This is my collection of throttles,..
Well over $100 worth.
PS,.. I Am Not A Hoarder !!
I am a collector.
It's been a fun ride, I've learned lots of stuff, and I've got lots of
equipment and supplies.
Last edited:
PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
Somebody should really create a C7 display that allows us to turn down the power.
ECO mode just doesn't cut it !!
I see no reason why the T1000 needs to be locked into Full Power.
At least give us the option to turn it down if you're not a 300 pound rider.
One guy and his wife each bought a T1000 and his 95 pound wife wiped out 3 times after the power kicked in and spun out the rear wheel.
Come On Leon !!!
WHY CAN'T WE TURN DOWN THE POWER ??
Your T1000 is as tough as nails.
I've wiped out 5 times now without damage.
Not everyone is OK with crashing.
ECO mode just doesn't cut it !!
I see no reason why the T1000 needs to be locked into Full Power.
At least give us the option to turn it down if you're not a 300 pound rider.
One guy and his wife each bought a T1000 and his 95 pound wife wiped out 3 times after the power kicked in and spun out the rear wheel.
Come On Leon !!!
WHY CAN'T WE TURN DOWN THE POWER ??
Your T1000 is as tough as nails.
I've wiped out 5 times now without damage.
Not everyone is OK with crashing.
Thank you @PCeBiker for all this information, if I decide to upgrade my controller and screen I will not hesitate to contact you for more info. I could benefit from your modification experience.
From what I've read as I understand it, the throttle position is going to provide specific speed and not precise power, which is why the T1000 goes so fast at starting. In my case, I would be satisfied if it kept a reduced and constant speed. I begin to understand, if I want more control, I must change the controler and the screen.
From what I've read as I understand it, the throttle position is going to provide specific speed and not precise power, which is why the T1000 goes so fast at starting. In my case, I would be satisfied if it kept a reduced and constant speed. I begin to understand, if I want more control, I must change the controler and the screen.
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