Error 10 and how to solve the problem

[ebikemom]

Hi Pedego peeps (with a special call out to experienced and expert Pedego peeps!!)!

This morning, my bike all packed up to head to church, BAM--no power. "Error 10." So, took the car to church. (The car was in shock, but adjusted fine, thank you. The trip to church may have even served to blow a bit of dust off of my car. No harm done!)

Looked up the error code on the handy dandy table, and learned this:

So, meanwhile, I'd texted my husband from church and he tried the bike. No problem. I came home and tried to find where the LCD cable connections are. Found what I figured is one of them wrapped under the black plastic strip wrapping sort of close to the LCD display. I gave it a firm little push inward from both sides. Maybe if I look harder I can find the other one.

Went out a bit later, grocery shopping with my son, and had three ERROR 10 incidents. All resolves when I did the same "push from both sides" maneuver on the upper cable connector.

Meanwhile, I think maybe I need to unplug and re-plug both connectors as instructed in (1) above. So, my question for you experts...

• How do I unwind the black plastic strip that is wound around the cables, and how do I re-wind it so it looks nice again?
• Where is the other connector end that needs to be unplugged and re-seated?

THANK YOU for sharing your expertise!

 

[JohnT]

It’s been a while, so I assume you’ve taken care of this, but in case you haven’t, or someone else has the problem...

Pedego has changed wiring harnesses over the years. Older ones had plugs that just push together. Newer ones have screw-on connectors. The older, push-type sometimes pulled loose, so that was often the first things by you checked. You might as well check the screw-type, too, but they almost never separate on their own.

The “other connector end” is at the controller. I’m sure you know, but many don’t, that the controller is not the LCD. The controller is a metal box with lots of wires coming out of it, that’s usually somewhere near the battery. On your Interceptor with plastic battery, it’s behind the metal panel behind the seatpost, at the front of the battery dock. Remove the four outer screw to open the panel and expose the controller, after making sure power is off. I can’t tell you which connector it is, as they’ve changed over the years, but it will be one coming out of the wire wrap fed through the hole in the bottom of the controller bay.

Speaking of wire wrap, unwinding is easy; rewrapping so it looks nice takes practice! Wrap it tight, and try not to overlap, except maybe where it widens for connectors.

I know you have multiple bikes. One good way to diagnose a problem is to switch components. If you’re not sure whether your LCD is bad, you can switch it with another one. Of course, this is a lot harder with intermittent problems.

 

[ebikemom]

Thanks, John! It is doing fine. Without unwrapping the tape, I pushed the connector by the handlebars together. I didn't feel it move, but haven't had the problem again. I didn't know it screws in! I bought my bike in April from a new dealer, so I assume it's the new type.

I appreciate the tape instructions. I'll give it a try some time!

 

[Stibbs]

I too am experiencing error 10 code ? It's a brand new build I had an error 8 code not really sure how I cured that ,then the 10 code popped up while scrolling through the 15 steps of sw-900 setting tire size , brightness, mph vs. Km , ECT . So I too will check all connections. I have an internal controller within the rear hub , so I truly hope nothing there is fried I haven't even ridden it yet. I will update thanks

 

[Stibbs]

I too am experiencing error 10 code ? It's a brand new build I had an error 8 code not really sure how I cured that ,then the 10 code popped up while scrolling through the 15 steps of sw-900 setting tire size , brightness, mph vs. Km , ECT . So I too will check all connections. I have an internal controller within the rear hub , so I truly hope nothing there is fried I haven't even ridden it yet. I will update thanks

Updated 1/21/2020
Went through each and every connection on the bike today. Turned everything off ,unhooked, then checked , soldered where necessary, shrink tubing and outter harness protective wrap, it's really clean specially for my first ebike build,BUT IT STILL WONT GET RID OF 10 ERROR CODE. no operation of motor at all, never have even heard it turn on.???

 

[Stibbs]

Updated 1/21/2020
Went through each and every connection on the bike today. Turned everything off ,unhooked, then checked , soldered where necessary, shrink tubing and outter harness protective wrap, it's really clean specially for my first ebike build,BUT IT STILL WONT GET RID OF 10 ERROR CODE. no operation of motor at all, never have even heard it turn on.???

Please inform me of the correct troubleshooting proceedures where do I start testing first? Have 52.7 volts coming from battery pack, right now it's hooked to 48v 13.5mah qzf battery pack with bms 30 continuous amps I believe and again the controller is in the hub, can I unhook the sw-900 display and just power up the wheel direct from battery to test motor ,for a matter of seconds

 

[Stibbs]

Please inform me of the correct troubleshooting proceedures where do I start testing first? Have 52.7 volts coming from battery pack, right now it's hooked to 48v 13.5mah qzf battery pack with bms 30 continuous amps I believe and again the controller is in the hub, can I unhook the sw-900 display and just power up the wheel direct from battery to test motor ,for a matter of seconds

How can I know for sure if my display is faulty and does that really matter to the motor in terms of turning on or activating? The display can change parameters but can it be responsible for not delivering any power at all to motor