Eahora X3

Mateo's Dad

Active Member
Let's discuss all things about the Eahora X3 here! This little 14" ebike makes for a perfect urban commuter or as a last mile vehicle when using public transportation. Share your thoughts, ask questions and discuss potential mods here.


Eahora X3 Specs

Headlight:
5W Bright Front Light, Tail Light: Reflector

Type: Electric Hybrid Bicycle, Frame: Aluminum Alloy Frame

Wheels/Tires: 14” F/R Air-Filled, Suspension: Seat Suspension & Front Suspension Fork

Motor: 350W Brushless Motor, Top Speed: 18-20MPH (PAS Mode) & 20-21MPH (Electric Mode)

Battery: 10.4 amp Samsung Removable Lithium Cells with Key-Secured, Charging Time: 5-6 Hours, Mileage:28-32mi(Electric) / 34-38mi(PAS)

Brake: Mechanical Disc Brake, Display: IP65 Waterproof Intelligent Display

Max. Load: no more than 165 lbs, we cannot be sure about performance or durability above that weight.

Package Size: 31.1*23.23*16.54 Inches, Folding Size: 30.7*21.3*30.3 Inches, Product Weight: 45.64lbs

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I went ahead and purchased a white Eaphora X3 for $499.99 (shipping $20, tax $31.25, total $551.24) which I intend on using as a last mile vehicle when commuting via public transportation/Uber and as a backup to my main 20" fat tire folding ebike.

(I do not work for nor endorse Eahora or any other company I am not legally allowed to. This information I am talking about is only education and informational.)
 
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DIY mods anyone?


Single speed freewheel mod:

HTB1yKr9X4rvK1RjSszeq6yObFXap.jpg


Crankset/chainring/chainwheel mod:

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Water bottle boss mounted secondary battery:

HTB1q6aVcwmH3KVjSZKzq6z2OXXan.jpg


Higher capacity replacement battery:

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After a week delay in shipping due to the CV, I finally received my X3! I ordered it on May 7th, and received it May 21st. It arrived without any damages.


IMG_20200521_124445.jpg
 
I finally got a chance to check out the controller in my X3. Two things that stood out about the stock controller are that you can use either a 36V or 48V battery and it has an unused connector for a wired rear taillight. Nice!

The controller fits in the frame enclosure with just enough room for the wires and connectors. Unfortunately the connectors are not the waterproof kind so that may be something to upgrade to in the future. I recommend using Loctite on the bolts that fasten the cover to the frame as mine were almost loose.

IMG_20200609_184212.jpg

The controller components are housed in a very small aluminum box (I forgot to measure the dimensions), it uses 6 MOSFETs which are bolted to the housing for cooling and it has one large 63V capacitor. Current limit is 15A, and a 36V or 48V battery is compatible. You can access this setting within the LCD. Cutoff voltage is 29V and 39V respectively. Interestingly the sticker states it's also compatible with a M5 (5S) LCD. Fun fact, my Lectric XP uses an M5 LCD so I may decide to test that out.

When I scanned the QR code it came back as "eb06a/x008-aa027/36/48v/15a/pas3s/190903005". I'm going to search for the controller part number in hopes of finding more information.

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As I mentioned before the connectors are not weatherproof but they do look like standard controller connectors. The motor is connected to the controller via 9 wires (5 wire connector, 1 wire connector, and 3 single wire bullet connectors).

IMG_20200609_161803.jpg

The controller has two 2-wire connectors for wired lights, a headlight and a taillight. I'm going to look into wiring in a taillight.

IMG_20200609_164316.jpg

IMG_20200609_183704.jpg

IMG_20200609_183722.jpg

I didn't take pictures of the other connectors but do remember what they look like if anyone has any questions.

  • The LCD uses a 5 wire connector
  • The thumb throttle uses a 3 wire connector
  • The brake levers each use 2 wire connectors
  • The PAS/cadence sensor uses a 3 wire connector
  • The battery holster uses a 2 wire T connector

I'd like to find out what the make and model of the LCD is as well as finding instructions on the settings menu. Luckily it appears to be a very basic display with only three menu options.
  • Setting 1 (36/48) changes the voltage from 36V or 48V. Default is 36.
  • Setting 2 (07-30) changes the wheel diameter which affects the displayed speed output. Default is 14.
  • Setting 3 (07-25) I'm not entirely sure what it changes but I think it has to do with motor response. Default is 22.

Here are the LCD part numbers as best as I can capture them.

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Motor part number, 48v stock! I plan on getting a 48v battery soon. Only other thing to do is switch the controller from 36v to 48v and test drive. I'm hoping for a top speed beyond 20mph.

JB-14" 48V350W20190903959N

IMG_20200616_004114.jpg

IMG_20200616_004038.jpg
 
nah, just go for 72V 🤣

Whoa 72V?! How would I get all that into a 14" solid spoke wheel?

30+ MPH would be insane, I'd kill for some cruise control too.

I figured a 48V battery would be a quick easy drop-in upgrade but probably not good enough for 30+ MPH. I'm wondering if 20 MPH is just the stock motor's top speed?
 
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I couldn't help but notice how my Eahora X3 controller looks like my Lectric XP controller. The QR code, the font, and the format of the wording all look very much alike. I was told that Eahora's and Lectric's ebikes are produced in the same factory so this sort of confirms this I suppose.


X3

IMG_20200609_161507.jpg

XP

IMG_20200618_100019.jpg


Anyways, for fun I'd like to test out the XP controller on my X3. The XP controller provides an extra 3 amps for the Current Limit and bumps up the voltage to 48v (X3 controller can also do 48v). I'm still shopping for a proper fitting 48v battery for the X3. I may test on a workbench with my 48v XP battery.

The great thing about these two controllers is that all the respective connectors are compatible so a controller swap is just a matter of plug and play. Everything from the T plug battery connector to the 5-pin display connector are the same.


X3 motor connectors and wires (9)

IMG_20200609_161803.jpg

XP motor connectors and wires (9)

IMG_20200618_100304.jpg

I also plan on using the M5 display supplied with the XP controller. If everything works as planned, I even expect the cruise control to function. I love and use cruise control all the time so this would be an awesome feature to have on my X3!


IMG_20200605_204856.jpg
 
Any idea what 14t freewheel to buy? Looking for advice. Thnx

I'm still looking into this. I purchased a 4-notch tool in order to remove the stock single speed freewheel. Hopefully it's the right tool. I'd like to have a little bit of pedal at top speed.
 
I finally got a chance to check out the controller in my X3. Two things that stood out about the stock controller are that you can use either a 36V or 48V battery and it has an unused connector for a wired rear taillight. Nice!

The controller fits in the frame enclosure with just enough room for the wires and connectors. Unfortunately the connectors are not the waterproof kind so that may be something to upgrade to in the future. I recommend using Loctite on the bolts that fasten the cover to the frame as mine were almost loose.

View attachment 55039

The controller components are housed in a very small aluminum box (I forgot to measure the dimensions), it uses 6 MOSFETs which are bolted to the housing for cooling and it has one large 63V capacitor. Current limit is 15A, and a 36V or 48V battery is compatible. You can access this setting within the LCD. Cutoff voltage is 29V and 39V respectively. Interestingly the sticker states it's also compatible with a M5 (5S) LCD. Fun fact, my Lectric XP uses an M5 LCD so I may decide to test that out.

When I scanned the QR code it came back as "eb06a/x008-aa027/36/48v/15a/pas3s/190903005". I'm going to search for the controller part number in hopes of finding more information.

View attachment 55040

View attachment 55042

View attachment 55043

View attachment 55045

View attachment 55046

As I mentioned before the connectors are not weatherproof but they do look like standard controller connectors. The motor is connected to the controller via 9 wires (5 wire connector, 1 wire connector, and 3 single wire bullet connectors).

View attachment 55049

The controller has two 2-wire connectors for wired lights, a headlight and a taillight. I'm going to look into wiring in a taillight.

View attachment 55050

View attachment 55051

View attachment 55052

I didn't take pictures of the other connectors but do remember what they look like if anyone has any questions.

  • The LCD uses a 5 wire connector
  • The thumb throttle uses a 3 wire connector
  • The brake levers each use 2 wire connectors
  • The PAS/cadence sensor uses a 3 wire connector
  • The battery holster uses a 2 wire T connector

I'd like to find out what the make and model of the LCD is as well as finding instructions on the settings menu. Luckily it appears to be a very basic display with only three menu options.
  • Setting 1 (36/48) changes the voltage from 36V or 48V. Default is 36.
  • Setting 2 (07-30) changes the wheel diameter which affects the displayed speed output. Default is 14.
  • Setting 3 (07-25) I'm not entirely sure what it changes but I think it has to do with motor response. Default is 22.

Here are the LCD part numbers as best as I can capture them.

View attachment 55053

View attachment 55054
The LCD is a Yolin brand, specifically the YL-70
 
I tried my old XP M5 display on the X3 controller. It did not work as expected. It flicker once and looked weird which I think is due to this being labeled a 48v display and me using the 36v battery. I got an error code and switching PAS 1-5 did nothing. Strangely the throttle still worked but the response was slow/dull and hesitant like it went into limp mode and couldn't achieve full power. Next, I'll try the M5 display with the XP controller with a 48v battery as that *should* work.

IMG_20200620_173055.jpg
 
Fingers crossed that my X3 will be repaired, as soon as the replacement LCD from Eahora arrives.. this was my first ebike that I purchased back in March. I would definitely advise anyone considering this bike, that yes it seems to be high quality but there is little to no community support or customer service from Eahora. Shortly after I bought this bike I bought a RadRunner from Rad Power Bikes and they are awesome. Sometimes it does pay, to pay a little premium for customer support and a larger community of riders.
 
let me know when you find the appropriate 48V battery

I was shopping for a battery on AliExpress a couple weeks ago and they had a lot of them on sale. I ran out of time and didn't get a chance to buy one so I'm going to wait for the next sale.

I've decided to go for the following specs:
  • Samsung 35E cells
  • 48V 30-40A BMS
  • 14Ah or greater
  • Lightweight under 10lbs (~3.5 - 4.2kg)
  • T-plug connector
3.5kg 48V 14Ah 30A

#Aliexpress US $236.53 35%OFF | Original 36V Battery 48V ebike Battery Hailong Downtube 20AH 20A 30A BMS 250W 350W 500W 750W 18650 Cell BBS02 BBS03 BBSHD Bafang

4.2kg 48V 17.5Ah 40A

#Aliexpress US $289.03 30%OFF | Original 48V Battery 20AH 52V Ebike Battery Hailong Electric Bike Battery 30A 350W 500W 750W 18650 Cell BBS02 BBS03 BBSHD Bafang
 
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Can you attach a link to where you bought that stand?

Cost me $65.99 for the repair stand and I applied Loctite to all the nuts and bolts at assembly. My back, my knees and my feet hurt really bad I'm when working on the ebikes on the ground so I'm hoping this helps rid of most of that.

Max load is 66lbs and able to hold up my XP with it's battery removed. It handles my X3 no sweat. Eventually I'd like to get a Park Tool stand but this will do for now.

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I went ahead and ordered a spare XP controller and LCD to test with.

Screenshot_20200618-193641.png


My parts arrived shortly thereafter. All the connectors plugged in.

IMG_20200623_141546.jpg


IMG_20200623_141648.jpg


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However everything came to a halt there. Even though I connected the XP controller and display correctly I kept getting this E010 error. The motor would not respond to throttle input and changing the PAS level did nothing. I also tried messing around with the settings but everything I tried did nothing. I also tried both 36V and 48V batteries, nope.

IMG_20200620_173055.jpg


Too bad it didn't work, I was really hoping it would've worked. I may try tracing the wires at a later date but for now I'm burned out and bummed out about the XP controller and LCD not working.

Someone from the Eahora X7 Facebook page posted a picture of the X7 controller, I'm going to see if I can get my hands on one of these for testing. I'm curious because for the Display Meter it says the same thing as my X3, "M5(5S)". 🤔

104379749_1154567038251340_749335375983110937_o.jpg
 
I went ahead and ordered a spare XP controller and LCD to test with.

View attachment 57498

My parts arrived shortly thereafter. All the connectors plugged in.

View attachment 57499

View attachment 57526

View attachment 57527

However everything came to a halt there. Even though I connected the XP controller and display correctly I kept getting this E010 error. The motor would not respond to throttle input and changing the PAS level did nothing. I also tried messing around with the settings but everything I tried did nothing. I also tried both 36V and 48V batteries, nope.

View attachment 57518

Too bad it didn't work, I was really hoping it would've worked. I may try tracing the wires at a later date but for now I'm burned out and bummed out about the XP controller and LCD not working.

Someone from the Eahora X7 Facebook page posted a picture of the X7 controller, I'm going to see if I can get my hands on one of these for testing. I'm curious because for the Display Meter it says the same thing as my X3, "M5(5S)". 🤔

View attachment 57522
Well let me know how your testing goes, and if Eahora will sell you another controller.. I don't really have the means to do that myself.. yet again, I will have to give it up to RadPower bikes and their customer support.. I was able to score a 2018 RadWagon on Facebook marketplace for $400. The sellers thought that they killed the battery, but in reality the LCD panel was waterlogged and it would not turn on the bike.. I attached another LCD I had on my rad runner bike and voila it works perfect.. I contacted rad for a replacement LCD, so all when I only spent $500 for a $1,500 bike
 
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