Cruiserize ST1 to more upright riding position?

How to convert riding position to more upright on the ST1?

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There are three ways:

1. Lower your existing seat by adjusting the seatpost.
[This may make the bike harder to pedal.]

2. Use a new (higher) handlebar stem.
[The handlebar stem is fixed in height and cannot be adjusted up and down. It will require purchasing a new stem from a third-party handlebar stem manufacturer. Some handlebar stems ($$$) are also adjustable in height.]

3. Use a new (higher) handlebar.
[There are plenty of handlebar manufacturers that provide a variety of different handlebar heights and shapes.]
 
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Mike, i had to do all three to get a more upright and comfortable position.

Seat post down,

4" Riser on the stem

North Rounder Comfort Handlebars - from Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002OBKRGU/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

Handlebar position.jpg
 
There are things you can do to make your ST1 more comfortable for your personal needs. Most of us don't ride bone stock bikes. That said, you can't alter the bike's geometry that much. The typical cruiser bike is crank forward and so are many hybrid bikes.

images


Notice the angled back seat tube and crank forward. This geometry allows you to slam the saddle height for a more upright ride position and your legs still have room to pedal with the crank forward.

The ST1 has a more aggressive, sporting geometry, with a more vertical seat tube and the crank is more or less under your crotch. That means you need a higher saddle position to allow your legs room to pedal.

upload_2016-1-6_22-56-2.jpeg


You can purchase an offset seat post, allowing more leg room, but that really isn't going to give you a true crank forward geometry.

c0015099_23401372.jpg


Add a riser extension and cruiser handlebars and??? Will it work for you? That's of course if your cables reach, but I don't think they will. The whole thing gets complicated, trying to change the geometry of a frame and rarely gets perfect. The ST1 is a very nice bike and can be customized for comfort, but if you really want an e-cruiser you may want to get another bike.

Good luck with it!
 
There are things you can do to make your ST1 more comfortable for your personal needs. Most of us don't ride bone stock bikes. That said, you can't alter the bike's geometry that much. The typical cruiser bike is crank forward and so are many hybrid bikes.

images


Notice the angled back seat tube and crank forward. This geometry allows you to slam the saddle height for a more upright ride position and your legs still have room to pedal with the crank forward.

The ST1 has a more aggressive, sporting geometry, with a more vertical seat tube and the crank is more or less under your crotch. That means you need a higher saddle position to allow your legs room to pedal.

View attachment 5149

You can purchase an offset seat post, allowing more leg room, but that really isn't going to give you a true crank forward geometry.

c0015099_23401372.jpg


Add a riser extension and cruiser handlebars and??? Will it work for you? That's of course if your cables reach, but I don't think they will. The whole thing gets complicated, trying to change the geometry of a frame and rarely gets perfect. The ST1 is a very nice bike and can be customized for comfort, but if you really want an e-cruiser you may want to get another bike.

Good luck with it!
Thanks, JR, I will submit a picture after I make the adjustments. I will go as far as possible without altering the cables.
 
I did what Roy did with the extension and the riser bars. I didn't lower the seat. I did buy this kit when I got the riser bar:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LUBZ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Not much money, but I didn't need it.

I couldn't go back to the flat bar. I ride on rough roads to get to paved roads (bad chip seal, paved) and my hands and wrists hurt after 20 miles. Solved the problem.

The Cruisers are different, with the 'flat foot' design. I might pick one up and put a basic front hub motor on it, just bop around at 18 mph or so. I think I would like a really casual bike, powered but not over-powered. I think @J.R. might be right, but it depends on how much you dislike the bars on the Stromer. I really was unhappy with the flat bar on the Elite Adventure I had converted. The Elite is a $400 Bikes Direct bike.

(Why do I keep posting on the Stromer Forum? This is 'on topic' right?)
 
The Stromer has hydraulic brakes which may be harder to extend. The electronic brake cut off Is a short run to the computer/odometer, no problem there but run to the disconnect by the wheel may be a difficult extension.

I have never worked with hydraulic cables so take that with a lot of salt. The wire may be a simple splce with 3 connectors in it I believe or it may not ??? Don't know just thinking out loud :)

Good luck
 
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