cross current s question(s)

barry g

Member
I've been "lurking" on the sidelines far too long.
Getting ready to pull the trigger on the Cross Current S with either the 19 amp 48 v or 22 amp 52 v battery.
Can anyone tell me whether: 1) the broken spoke or 2) chain falling off issues have been corrected ?
 
The broken spoke issue seems to be resolved. This is based on limited data. Juiced changed both the type/brand of rear spokes they use and the lacing pattern of the spokes in November. I haven't been hearing complaints by owners of the new bikes about broken spokes. Like I said limited info at this time.
As far as the chain drop issue goes, I am not aware of a fix from Juiced at this point. There have been mixed reviews about shortening the chain to resolve this. I know Reid was looking at a "narrow-wide tooth" front chainring. He also mentioned that he hasn't been able to find a front chainstay that will work on the bike. He changed to a Shimano shadow rear derailler with 10 spd cassette. IIRC he reported that has seemed to fix the problem for him. Also, FWIW, this does not seem to be a universal problem as clearly not all owners are reporting it.

FWIW, I placed an order for the 52V battery CCS a few weeks ago. Just waiting for them to arrive. I am not really worried about the chain drop issue. If it shows up on my bike, I will deal with it. Perhaps Tora at Juiced will come up with a solution that can be provided to prior owners??? I am sure if it has been a big enough issue, he is aware of it, and looking for a viable solution. He has clearly been very actively involved with addressing problems quickly. The rear spoke problem is a great example, as he made the changes to production in real time to affect new shipments.
 
I have a first run CCS and I have gotten the spokes replaced....with the new ones from Juiced. So far so good. 3+ weeks no issues. I have an occasional chain drop but its not really a big deal.

but i'll be interested in if anyone comes up with a good fix.

I may just design one my self and print it on my 3d printer.... ;)

Andy
 
Right. Chain drop is not an issue for many CCS owners.

The CCS does not have room for an inner guard ring.

A CCS chain can fall off to either side of the chainwheel; at least on mine it would. And disappointingly, the space between the outer guard ring and the chainwheel was wider than the chain, so when the chain bounced off it would simply slide into the gap and there would be no more drive.

BTW, I see that the new RipCurrent has both an outer and also an inner guard ring. This should be a total solution if the guard/chainring gap is not too wide.
 
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Yeah this guy on YouTube said shortening his chain to 114 links fixed his chain drop issue. Worst case you can install a derailleur with a clutch in it. I haven’t dropped a chain since installing a Deore XT Shadow Plus derailleur on my Cross Current. The clutch prevents the chain from losing tension over bumps.

 
Yeah this guy on YouTube said shortening his chain to 114 links fixed his chain drop issue. Worst case you can install a derailleur with a clutch in it. I haven’t dropped a chain since installing a Deore XT Shadow Plus derailleur on my Cross Current. The clutch prevents the chain from losing tension over bumps.

Yes to Dunbar! Dang it, though: the reduction to 114 links by itself fixed my bike's chain drop issues only for a couple of weeks. Then chain drops began again, apparently because the cocked-back OEM Altus derailleur tension spring weakened.

But chain drops never happen anymore with the Deore XT derailleur I have these days. It is an upgrade I copied from Dunbar's previously posted experience.

Even though it may be overkill (but not for me because I dread chain drops):
  • the MTB-rated derailleur capable of providing strong chain tension plus a friction clutch
  • plus the added chain security of a chainwheel with alternating narrow-wide teeth by which to fit the chain's narrow inner links and wide outer links like a glove;
these three anti-drop measures bolded above can help provide the maximum chain drop insurance.
 
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I have a first run CCS and I have gotten the spokes replaced....with the new ones from Juiced. So far so good. 3+ weeks no issues. I have an occasional chain drop but its not really a big deal.

but i'll be interested in if anyone comes up with a good fix.

I may just design one my self and print it on my 3d printer.... ;)

Andy
You sure could, Andy. Earlier on before getting a Deore XT Shadow Plus, I bought and then returned this guide because It would not work for the relatively giant CCS chainwheel because its entry point was located too far forward from the leading-in teeth of the chainwheel. (It is meant to work only for much smaller chainwheels.)

 
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Chain retention is the key to creating a reliable single-ring drivetrain and your chainring is your first line of defence again dropped chains.

There are dozens of companies who are now producing chainrings with alternating width tooth profiles, similar to SRAM’s X-SYNC technology. These are generally referred to as narrow-wide chainrings.

These chainrings match the width of their teeth to the width of the chain's inner and outer plates, which greatly reduces any side-to-side movement of the chain, thus reducing the likelihood of dropping it.



(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
Wolf Tooth Components is one of several companies making aftermarket chain rings with alternating width tooth profiles



While not a necessity, rings such as these can reduce the likelihood of dropping a chain. When used in conjunction with a rear derailleur with a clutch mechanism, such as Shimano’s Shadow Plus or SRAM’s Type 2, you should be able to run your 1x drivetrain without a chain guide. (((snip)))
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/how-to-convert-to-a-1x-drivetrain-37451/
 
... I haven’t dropped a chain since installing a Deore XT Shadow Plus derailleur on my Cross Current. The clutch prevents the chain from losing tension over bumps.


Hey guys, how hard of an install is the Deore XT Shadow Plus derailleur? Is it pretty much a drop in replacement for a DIY guy? (hey I remodeled all three of my bathrooms...could I do this myself? - LOL) - Thanks in advance!
 
I'm certain there are "how to" videos on YouTube about how to replace and adjust a rear derailleur. You can check the Park Tool site also. In a nutshell, you break the chain (either with chain tool or opening the connecting link), disconnect the shift cable, remove the old derailleur, install the new one, set the limit screws, reconnect the cable, rejoin the chain, and adjust the indexing.
 
I'm certain there are "how to" videos on YouTube about how to replace and adjust a rear derailleur. You can check the Park Tool site also. In a nutshell, you break the chain (either with chain tool or opening the connecting link), disconnect the shift cable, remove the old derailleur, install the new one, set the limit screws, reconnect the cable, rejoin the chain, and adjust the indexing.

Thank you! I want to give it a shot. I'm also going to treat myself to a bicycle mechanic class this summer. I want to learn because I enjoy tinkering with things but I've never really experimented with bikes yet. Thanks again!
 
My nutshell was a little off; I failed to mention about removing and rerouting the chain through the new derailleur. A couple of the steps can be moved around; you can set the limit screws after rejoining the chain, and you can reconnect the cable after rejoining the chain. Also, it is a good idea to check the derailleur hanger for alignment before installing the new derailleur. That requires a specialized tool, although you could make one; I think RJ the Bike Guy on YouTube probably has a video about how to do that. Anyway, have fun.
 
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The hardest part would be re-indexing the shifting and setting up the limit screws once you install the new derailleur. If you’ve never done that before it can be tricky. Worst case you could install the derailleur yourself (it’s pretty easy to install) and take it down to a bike shop and pay them $20 to setup/tune the derailleur for you. Bike shop mechanics spend a good chunk of their time setting up and tuning derailleurs so they can make quick work of it.
 
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Hey guys, how hard of an install is the Deore XT Shadow Plus derailleur? Is it pretty much a drop in replacement for a DIY guy? (hey I remodeled all three of my bathrooms...could I do this myself? - LOL) - Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately, when we upgrade to a 10 speed derailleur we absolutely have to fit also a 10 speed shifter and a 10 speed cassette.

This is basically because the index ratio of 9s to 10s is different, that is the movement-per-shifter-click of the 10S derailleur is inherently different in the derailleur, itself. It cannot practically perform 9S indexing, no matter what shifter is used.

I chose:

$31 for a Shimano SLX 10s trigger shifter, with visual indicatorsimilar to the 9S Altus it replaces.
$30 for ZTTO wide range 11T-42T 10s cassette.
$22 for KMX X10.93 10s chain
$65 for this 10s Shimano (get the long cage!) Shadow Plus derailleur. Other Shimanos are candidates, too. Mine is 2014 vintage and found discounted because 10s stuff is years out of style already. Bear in mind, too: our rear hub motors cannot accept 11s cassettes. 11s requires a wider cassette and an 11s hub (or otherwise some fancy custom machining of the 11s cassette) and wider rear frame. However, we save money when upgrading by buying this outdated 10s stuff that still works every bit as good as the newest 11s and 12s gear we as ebikers don't need at all.

It was all easy to install, using YouTube videos for guides. I had no previous experience with this stuff and enjoyed the learning process. Changing out the cassette was the most challenging. But not really hard at all with YT videos.
 
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Unfortunately, when we upgrade to a 10S derailleur we absolutely have to fit also a 10 speed shifter and a 10S cassette.

This is basically because the index ratio of 9S to 10S is different, that is the movement-per-click of the 10S derailleur is inherently different in the derailleur, itself. It cannot practically perform 9S indexing, no matter what shifter is used.

I chose:

$31 for a Shimano SLX trigger shifter, with visual indicatorsimilar to the 9S Altus it replaces.
$30 for ZTTO wide range 11T-42T 10S cassette.
$22 for KMX X10.93 10S chain
$65 for this 10S Shimano (get the long cage!) Shadow Plus derailleur.

It was all easy to install, using YouTube videos for guides. I had no previous experience with this stuff and enjoyed the learning process. Changing out the cassette was the most challenging. But not really hard at all with YT videos.

@Reid thanks for the punch list!
 
Unfortunately, when we upgrade to a 10S derailleur we absolutely have to fit also a 10 speed shifter and a 10S cassette.

This is basically because the index ratio of 9S to 10S is different, that is the movement-per-click of the 10S derailleur is different. It cannot be made to do 9S indexing no matter what shifter is used.

I forgot to mention about the whole DynaSys thang. DOAH! So yes, it is not plug and play in the instance of going from 9 to 10 gears.
 
I forgot to mention about the whole DynaSys thang. DOAH! So yes, it is not plug and play in the instance of going from 9 to 10 gears.
Ha ha, I don't think I even know what that is about. Have heard of it. My new parts may even have it. But what is dynasys?
 
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Sounds like a mean case of planned obsolescence! dynsys...

and so 11 speed must be Shimano dynagetyourdough

musical break time
 
Well, all these companies need to sell bikes and junk. It is not just the number of gears; that is almost easy to deal with. But the changes to headsets, bottom brackets, hub widths is beyond stupid. What used to be relatively standard is now ridiculously complicated. I'm still "angry" that there are three different sized mountain bike wheels (never mind about fat bikes)...what was wrong with 26" wheels?! I should not complain too much though...it keeps me employed. LOL.
 
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