Creo SLE evo @ 18 months
- Thread starter Seeya
- Start date
Nxkharra
Well-Known Member
How do you see charge cycle?
Mission Control?
mschwett
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Great to hear! So many people claim that mid-drive bikes require the replacement of expensive cassettes (and chains) left and right!
are you still using the original rotors and pads? Now THAT would be impressive.
Original rotors; front pads replaced recently.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
I hope this is not a derail. I've got about 2,200 miles on my Aluminum Creo. I don't hear any of the sounds that suggest the pads (or rotors) are in need to replacement. But I find that applying the left brake seems to come up short on stopping power. The bike actually keeps moving forward almost as if I have not been squeezing that brake much at all. I don't know if it is because I'm a Lefty or just habit but that is the one I tend to grab in quick response mode. I'm not that accustomed to disc brakes so don't really know what to expect.
Any thoughts? The local bike shop is kind of backed up for servicing.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
What is the make of your brakes? Willing to help with advice.
I checked the brake pads on my Creo EVO CC last week. Just pull the wheel and check the thickness of the brake pads. If they are over 1 mm thick (equal to about 3 business cards thick) they are good. If your brake pads are OK you probably just need to adjust the tension in the brake cable. Park Tools has videos on checking and adjusting brakes as well as how to replace the pads.
Prairie Dog
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Red Deer
As @JeffC57 suggested, pulling out and inspecting the thickness of the pads is pretty easy to do. Having a digital caliper on hand will provide an accurate measurement.
If it feels a bit spongy then it could be air in the hydraulic line which would likely require a purge. Same thing occurred to the rear brakes on my Trance but I was fortunate enough to have the LBS bleed the brakes during a slow time at the shop. The tech advised me that the oil was apparently quite dirty.
I intend on performing my own bleeds on all of our bikes for the very reason that you mentioned. Should save me time and more than enough to recoup my costs on a good bleed kit.
If it feels a bit spongy then it could be air in the hydraulic line which would likely require a purge. Same thing occurred to the rear brakes on my Trance but I was fortunate enough to have the LBS bleed the brakes during a slow time at the shop. The tech advised me that the oil was apparently quite dirty.
I intend on performing my own bleeds on all of our bikes for the very reason that you mentioned. Should save me time and more than enough to recoup my costs on a good bleed kit.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
You cannot tension a hydraulic line. Some brake levers offer moving a little piston inside the line by a screw to increase the travel of the lever.
@Prairie Dog: depending on the brake make, brake pads can be secured either by a cotter or by a little screw. That's why I was asking about the brake make.
Prairie Dog
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Red Deer
In the case of the Creo's Shimano (Ultegra/GRX) brakes, it’s simply a pad pin and retention clip.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
ALL, thanks for the replies.
According to the specs (but as Specialized suggests - subject to change
):Rear Brake
Shimano GRX 400 hydraulic disc
Front Brake
Shimano GRX 400 hydraulic disc
I will head downstairs later to see if that's the case.
@Prairie Dog - so one can just unscrew the pads and measure? I've got this nice cheap plastic caliper!
@JeffC57 - I'm gathering business cards as we type... (one from my eye doctor, one from a gate company (gift for family expecting a new child) and one from an artist)
I would not call them mushy as more ineffective! I guess I could roll to my shop and maybe get a quick review.
Prairie Dog
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Red Deer
Personally, I would probably replace the pads before they get down to 1.5mm. Yes, it's just a matter of removing the clip, unscrewing the pin and pulling out the pads along with the spring. Below is a tutorial on brake pad removal. I’m sure there are others out there but this should provide a general guide to the process. I use regular brake cleaner but don’t apply it directly onto the parts. Instead, I spray a bit onto a rag and use that to clean the dust from the pistons and caliper. Same goes with the rotors.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
I'm not sure how the pads are secured in the GRX brake calipers.
I was trying to show the same video as Prairie Dog!
I was trying to show the same video as Prairie Dog!
Stefan is of course correct about the hydraulic brake lines. The Park Tools video on changing brake pads covers multiple disk brake pad attachment styles.
kahn
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- northWET washington
A bit more review. Yes, GRX brakes.
But I just noticed that the left (front) lever bottoms out. It meets no resistance part way through the pull like the other lever. Sounds serious or totally deficient in fluid or air or whatever powers them.
But I just noticed that the left (front) lever bottoms out. It meets no resistance part way through the pull like the other lever. Sounds serious or totally deficient in fluid or air or whatever powers them.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
Or, the brake pads could be totally worn. My brother Jacek tells me "You have no brake" when he spots that behaviour.
P.S. Note it is the front brake pads that typically need to be replaced (70% of the stopping power is allocated to the front brake).
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Rincon
Well-Known Member
Right = rear
Left = launch
Be careful out there. Learn to use both.
And replace the pads. That’s enough miles.
100% after 18 months and 177 full cycles is great, especially for a small and internal battery. Range or your "feeling of range" also confirms the 100%?
I ride 20-30 miles 5 x a week, mostly on the flat, and charge it every second or third day. There are so many variables at play (wind, temperature, power setting, etc.) I really can’t give an accurate assessment. Though I haven’t noticed any abnormal loss of range when I plug it in or extended time to charge, I assume there must be some battery degradation that isn’t yet indicated in “Battery Heath.”
