Controller Modification for more speed?

[tds101]

Goldconch says the LCD8H works. If he is able to change PAS levels, see the Watts and the speed, that means it's a KT controller. If so, then any KT display will work. I think you need more voltage to benefit from a controller swap.

I see the connector is located inside the frame I believe? That makes it more difficult. I'd need to remove the rear wheel to access the wiring, just to swap out the display.

 

[harryS]

What's lacking with the Qualisports? Simplistic display?

I use an LCD1 on my last conversion. Speed, distance, PAS level. I would like to see the watts and voltage, but don't really need it. The LCD3 would allow me to lower the current, but on this bike I want it at max.

 

[tds101]

What's lacking with the Qualisports? Simplistic display?

I use an LCD1 on my last conversion. Speed, distance, PAS level. I would like to see the watts and voltage, but don't really need it. The LCD3 would allow me to lower the current, but on this bike I want it at max.

I want more control over my settings, and the current display doesn't allow access to the settings menu.

 

[Tinker]

I want more control over my settings, and the current display doesn't allow access to the settings menu.

I have an LCD8H and it works fine, the only real advantage for me is the usb. I wish I had got the vertical version becuse it really crowds the handlebars if you want a cell phone holder as well.
I thought you could chnge the settings with the stock controller, it was just displayed better on the lcd8.

 

[goldconch]

I see the connector is located inside the frame I believe? That makes it more difficult. I'd need to remove the rear wheel to access the wiring, just to swap out the display.

@tds101 Not sure if you've done it already (from post above Feb 1), but flip the bike over and behind crank, there are 4 hex bolts affixing the controller plate to a frame pocket where the controller CPU box and wiring harnesses live. Disconnect seat post battery. Cut the zip ties on frame and chain stay and there is lots of extra wire to use, and maybe better managed at that opportunity. You can pull the controller box right out. One side may have double-sided sticky tape. Mine fell out without active glue as I recall. Rear wheel doesn't need to go anywhere for accessing this area. Just be sure to observe wiring, and choose the KT display version with the proper plug and play "5 pin SM" pinned harness type (see below), and *NOT* the popular new-build HIGO coloured connectors.

 

[tds101]

@tds101 Not sure if you've done it already (from post above Feb 1), but flip the bike over and behind crank, there are 4 hex bolts affixing the controller plate to a frame pocket where the controller CPU box and wiring harnesses live. Disconnect seat post battery. Cut the zip ties on frame and chain stay and there is lots of extra wire to use, and maybe better managed at that opportunity. You can pull the controller box right out. One side may have double-sided sticky tape. Mine fell out without active glue as I recall. Rear wheel doesn't need to go anywhere for accessing this area. Just be sure to observe wiring, and choose the KT display version with the proper plug and play "5 pin SM" pinned harness type (see below), and *NOT* the popular new-build HIGO coloured connectors.

View attachment 115161

Thanks! I actually figured out how to up the speed with the stock display (while powered off hold up+down, then power on). I'm still interested in this upgrade though. My screen freezes up. Qualisports sent me a replacement. The swap will have to be done eventually. I might as well upgrade.