Choosing Between the Rad Rover Step Through or Rad City Step Through

Gordon71

Well-Known Member
I’m 71 and recently retired from doing carpentry work most of my life. One draw back to retirement is not getting enough exercise so I’m thinking about getting an E Bike. I live on the coast of Maine and there is no chance to test one before I buy. My research (and finances) have narrowed my choices to the Rad Rover Step Through or the Rad City Step Through.
Riding will be mostly on paved roads but were talking rural Maine where the roads are not in the best shape and shoulders don’t exist in many places. Some riding will be on dirt roads. There are some hills but nothing super steep or long. Price of both is pretty much the same except the City has a built in rear rack and I would need to pay extra for a rack for the Rover.
The Rover is a bit heavier. The main difference as far as I can see is the tires and I’m thinking the fatter tires on the Rover might make a difference regarding comfort on the not so great roads here. Would love to hear some opinions.
 
Read the rad problems thread before purchase: https://electricbikereview.com/foru...ad-power-products-help-solutions-fixes.13196/
As long as you don't need wheels that are round or pedals or crank arms that stay screwed on, rad makes something resembling a bicycle.
I find the idea of torque checking the spokes monthly rediculous. The $200 Pacific Quantum I had previously had crank arms that were good for about 3000 miles, I wore one out. I suspect rad is using similar suppiers. The bike left has about 6000 miles with no spoke crank or pedal problems. The yuba bike left cost about twice what a similar Rad costed, although price is no guarentee of what quality of steel is being supplied. I'll also say the Pacific Quantum had the same cheap Shimano derailleur that Rad uses, which required readjustment to hit the right gear several times a year. The SRAM shifter on the bike left has needed only one stop screw adjustment in 2 years.
As far as comfort, I do well with 2" diameter tires on paved roads at 8-10 mph. Our pavement isn't great either, which is why I prefer 26" wheels over the 20" on much more compact bikes. 29" x 2" would be even smoother but my legs aren't long enough to deal with that. Bikes with suspension are about $1000 more than those without. Suspensions are best for dealing with really bad roads, but have a limited life due to the rubber seals.
 
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I don't think the RAD problems are quite as bad as painted above. They sell a LOT of bikes, so it's likely you see a lot of issues resulting from the high number of bikes sold. Bucks spent for bang (and quality of service support) received, I believe they're a good buy.

I would go with the Rover for it's gear driven rear hub and the ride available with the larger tires. The City's direct drive hub, on anything but level paved roads, might be a little disappointing. The direct drive hub is a little wimpy getting the bike moving from a stop and when faced with much of a hill. The Rover's gear driven hub is just the opposite. I think they're going to hit a home run with the step through Rover. -Al
 
I don't think the RAD problems are quite as bad as painted above. They sell a LOT of bikes, so it's likely you see a lot of issues resulting from the high number of bikes sold. Bucks spent for bang (and quality of service support) received, I believe they're a good buy.

I would go with the Rover for it's gear driven rear hub and the ride available with the larger tires. The City's direct drive hub, on anything but level paved roads, might be a little disappointing. The direct drive hub is a little wimpy getting the bike moving from a stop and when faced with much of a hill. The Rover's gear driven hub is just the opposite. I think they're going to hit a home run with the step through Rover. -Al
Thanks Al. I wasn't aware of the hub difference so thanks for that info. I watched two fairly long video test rides of both bikes and think the conditions shown in the Rover video more closely resemble mine. Both bikes seem to get very good owner reviews overall and the price is about as low as one can find other than maybe at Walmart. Don't plan to order for at least another couple of months.
 
Gordon, the gear driven rear hubs have a set of very durable quiet running gears with a 5:1 ratio built in internaly. This lets them deliver considerably more torque to the ground, and the beauty of the setup is that at low power settings, they use less power than the direct drive, which seems to be struggling all the time. Geared hubs have a much "zippier" feel.
 
My pick would be the step thru rover also

and rad is pretty good with standing behind their bikes, probably as good as you will do with any online company
 
I have a 2018 Rad Rover that has about 1500 miles on it with essentially zero problems. People bring their complaints to this forum more then they bring their happy stories. Not saying some folks haven't had issues, they have, but a whole lot of people have had good experiences with them.

I will say that you have to be at least somewhat comfortable turning a wrench. Phone and email support is great from Rad but it's not LBS support.

TT
 
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I have not had problems finding LBS to swap out electrical components on my ebikes and of course they’ve all been fine doing regular bike work on them

Unless you live in a really small town with only one or two bike shops I don’t think that will be an issue

I sold my first generation rad rover six or eight months ago and it never had a problem, think it had 2200 miles on it
 
My neighbor has a Radrover for almost a year with zero issues, both bikes are cool imo but the Rover has twice the amount of torque VS the City 80nm VS 40nm
 
Ecotric has a step thru folder that my wife loves. Paid like $750. Had some minor shipping damage ( paint scratching) they stood right up and handled it. We have rode often and so far, zero problems. It's 500w, 36v and using assist 1 - 30 mi range perhaps more, never ran out the batter to the LVC ( low voltage cutout)
 
I've test ridden both and much prefer the city. That said, I would not buy either - I would go for a hub-drive if that's what you want, but a geared-hub drive. The RadCity is a direct drive.
That said as well, the city really goes, handles well, is nicely put together.

Fat-tire bikes do nothing for me, but some seem to gravitate to them. Handling is very heavy on them - they are more like a tractor. LOL

I would also not get a step thru - some old habits just won't die. [shrug]

Frankly I'd take the Ride1Up 700. Fantastic budget bike.
 
I've test ridden both and much prefer the city. That said, I would not buy either - I would go for a hub-drive if that's what you want, but a geared-hub drive. The RadCity is a direct drive.
That said as well, the city really goes, handles well, is nicely put together.

Fat-tire bikes do nothing for me, but some seem to gravitate to them. Handling is very heavy on them - they are more like a tractor. LOL

I would also not get a step thru - some old habits just won't die. [shrug]

Frankly I'd take the Ride1Up 700. Fantastic budget bike.
Thanks for pointing this one out as I have not run across it so far. It looks good and I'll have to check it out more closely tomorrow.
 
Also, if you're gonna mail-order anyway, I would check out Crazy Lennys. Lots of bargains, and vetted by a domestic bike dealer.
Lenny is on the forum here as well.

BTW, Ride1Up has 27.5 wheels which are a step up from the lowly 26's.
And it has good battery capacity, Acera shifter, and shimano hydraulic brakes.

They're putting a lot of value in for the same price point, and get very good feedback.

A couple of our friends have RadPower bikes - they're fine. The Rover will go over sand and snow if that's your in your realm.
I have tested out a few fat-tire bikes and all felt cumbersome to me. But then I come from a long line of 700c crossbikes.

Bigger wheels are still more effortless for speed and to pedal, so I always gravitate to 700c bikes, or '29'rs'
 
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Also, if you're gonna mail-order anyway, I would check out Crazy Lennys. Lots of bargains, and vetted by a domestic bike dealer.
Lenny is on the forum here as well.

BTW, Ride1Up has 27.5 wheels which are a step up from the lowly 26's.
And it has good battery capacity, Acera shifter, and shimano hydraulic brakes.

They're putting a lot of value in for the same price point, and get very good feedback.

A couple of our friends have RadPower bikes - they're fine. The Rover will go over sand and snow if that's your in your realm.
I have tested out a few fat-tire bikes and all felt cumbersome to me. But then I come from a long line of 700c crossbikes.

Bigger wheels are still more effortless for speed and to pedal, so I always gravitate to 700c bikes, or '29'rs'

Only to mention as a counterpoint, "lowly 26" wheels" with all else being equal, allows for a lower seat to swing your leg over. I LOVE my 26" bike after having issues with a 29'er and I'm no midget. Just getting older. Then again, if talking a step through, that may be a moot point.

Also, the 27.5" x 2.4" (62-684) on the 700 are not going to provide the ride or the traction on loose surfaces that a 4.00 tire will provide. There is no doubt though, that the narrower tire will have less rolling resistance.

I would also think that you are going to be contributing a LOT of power trying to get a 500w gear driven rear hub to class 3 speeds. Gear driven rear hubs start loosing a lot of their low speed efficiency at higher speeds. Say over 15mph or so. Not saying it's not possible, only that it's not going to be easy....
 
@AHicks - this one (pictured below) has NO problem getting to 25mph or beyond - 48v 500w geared hub. But yeah, it takes a bit to get up to speed, especially over 20 - surely not a rocket. LOL
I speed-limit her to 22.
40psi in the tires - the ride is pretty good unless it's really bumpy. Perfect bike-lane cruiser.

She has zero interest in riding on the beach or in snow. :p

My guess is it's pretty comparable to the Ride1Up - and for the money I think they are a killer deal.

 
Only to mention as a counterpoint, "lowly 26" wheels" with all else being equal, allows for a lower seat to swing your leg over. I LOVE my 26" bike after having issues with a 29'er and I'm no midget. Just getting older. Then again, if talking a step through, that may be a moot point.

Also, the 27.5" x 2.4" (62-684) on the 700 are not going to provide the ride or the traction on loose surfaces that a 4.00 tire will provide. There is no doubt though, that the narrower tire will have less rolling resistance.

I would also think that you are going to be contributing a LOT of power trying to get a 500w gear driven rear hub to class 3 speeds. Gear driven rear hubs start loosing a lot of their low speed efficiency at higher speeds. Say over 15mph or so. Not saying it's not possible, only that it's not going to be easy....
Thanks. I read and watched the EBR review of this bike. It's very similar to the Rad Rover but there are some things about it that I like better. They also have a 30 day return policy if I just don't like it while the RR wants a 25% restocking fee so that's a positive. The only thing I still need to look at is the difference between a class 11 the rover and the ride1 which says it's a class 111. There is a particularly nice section of Acadia National Park near where I live. From my driveway to the park (1 way road) and then home is a total of 17.4 miles. There are also several bike/hiking trails there and want to check if E bikes are allowed on those and if so what class.
 
Our Michigan home is next door to a 2500 acre state park. I can share that the rangers there could care less if you are on an e-bike. We've stopped and talked with them while on our bikes! There's very little (no) enforcement of any of the rules. Pretty much the same story here in Fl. In either case though, if there were any abuse on your part generating complaints, that may not be the case.

And for what it's worth, many class 3 bikes are class 2 bikes with no top speed restriction. Class 2 bikes are generally electronically limited to about 20 mph, though you can mess with some (including the RAD bikes) to get 22-24mph if you like. The class 3's have no upper speed restriction. For an amateur (or a ranger/law enforcement official) to tell the difference, without looking at the rating sticker on your bike, would be pretty difficult. Same regarding bikes with big motors....
 
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Gordon71 fyi - In Arcadia National Park - Class 1 only, according to their site. And they have signs stating no class 2 or 3 Ebikes. They also seem to have dropped the speed limit for all bikes to 20 mph (from 25).

Thanks. I do wonder if that mostly applies to the main park on Mount Dessert Island. My section in Winter Harbor is small although they did a major upgrade just a couple of years ago and that's when they added the bike/hiking trails. Not really a huge concern for me as I'm mainly interested in riding the park loop road which is open to vehicle traffic ,is one way,and follows the shoreline. The other trails are in the more inland part of the park. In any case I'm certainly not going to drop down to a class 1.
 
If you can find one that doesn't act like they have a stick up their butt (their has to be one, right?), it might be worth asking about? See if maybe they'll share their un-official/official insight on the throttle question regarding seniors or others that may not be able to ride without a throttle?
 
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