Changing Grip in Vado

I use the Ergon Biokork grips with GP3 bar ends from other worn out grip sets. They have more clearance for the mirrors while still providing more positions to relieve hand numbness. The bar ends are at ~45° and the palm rests are basically level. YRMV.

View attachment 59410
Vado 5 cockpit with size large Biokork grips.
 
Was watching a YouTube on the company and they have put in lots of work designing the barends. Don’t know what but must be a reason for the shape.
assume you have large grip size?
Yes, large grip size. The handles are perfect size. Maybe some tennis racket grip tape wrapped around the horns if it bothers me enough but I’ll probably be able to cope.
 
Yes, large grip size. The handles are perfect size. Maybe some tennis racket grip tape wrapped around the horns if it bothers me enough but I’ll probably be able to cope.
How about the tapes that they put on road bike handle bar?
 
I've been thinking about changing the grips on my Como to something more comfortable. Do the Ergon grips with horns accommodate bar end mirrors?
As long as the mirror attachment inserts into the handlebar tube it will work the Ergon grips. You leave the Ergon bar end plug out and insert the mirror attachment. @Stefan Mikes has done this on at least one of his ebikes. Note that the mirror needs to be positioned as to not interfere with the Ergon bar end grips. This usually means positioning the mirror inline with the handle bar, or below the handle bar.
 
Here is the official Ergon installation guide:


Most important is the right rotation angle to avoid stress with your wrists and take care of your ulnar and median nerve.
How do you adjust rotation angle correctly to avoid stress to the wrist??
 
How do you adjust rotation angle correctly to avoid stress to the wrist??
You do need some pressure/stress on the grips to sense the bike's direction and maintain control, but stress on the wrist can be minimized by rotating the Ergon grips so your wrist is inline with your lower arm. Like with the saddle, pressure and stress can't be eliminated but it can be minimized by playing with the grip angle until it suits you best.
 
You do need some pressure/stress on the grips to sense the bike's direction and maintain control, but stress on the wrist can be minimized by rotating the Ergon grips so your wrist is inline with your lower arm. Like with the saddle, pressure and stress can't be eliminated but it can be minimized by playing with the grip angle until it suits you best.
Thanks.
I have been experimenting with rotation. My right thumb, hand, and part of my arm feels the stress.
my left is fine.
either going to small grip or getting used to it might help. Will see.
 
@Nxkharra, @Teddcl,

As I'm using both GP5 and GP3 (both models as Large), I can tell you the GP5 feel like "a lot of a grip", and these might not be best for you. I find the GP3 more comfortable, and you might try a smaller size as well. I use Ergon grips on all of my e-bikes, and Mirrycle mirrors are on all of them, too. Even if the space between the mirror and the wrist-rest looks very tight, the hand never gets in conflict with the mirror. Properly adjusted, the mirror lets you see the whole road behind you without showing your body!

I'm fond of the small bar-ends of the GP3 very much. Believe it or not I spend over 90% of my rides delicately holding the bar-ends as if it were a steering wheel; or, I support my body weight on the bar-ends. It does miracles in rough terrain as far less vibration is transmitted to the arms and head that way. Actually, I let the bar-ends play freely on the vertical in such a terrain. The bar-end hand-hold is very stable and allows perfect control of the bike even under hard ride conditions (off-road!). Hand movements towards the shifter are quick. Moving hands onto the grips to brake is very fast.

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That's the advantage of the Innerbarends:
no need to move your hands for shifting or braking, you are in full and immediate control all the time.
I don't quite follow you TS25. When you grab your bar-ends, inner or outer, shouldn't you move your hand for braking or shifting anyway?
 
I don't quite follow you TS25. When you grab your bar-ends, inner or outer, shouldn't you move your hand for braking or shifting anyway?

Maybe this pic helps to explain:

Innerbarends.JPG


Your right thumb is on the left side of the pictured innerbarend, your hand rests partly on top of the grip and two fingers are on the grip (you can upshift with them from that position) while the other two fingers are on the brake.

Could be helpful if you had piano lessons once
 
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