Also, a stem riser with back swept handlebars can totally change the riding position from hunched and stiff to upright and comfy, for like $50 or $60, so don't sweat that piece either. FYI better bikes don't need a thumb throttle, they have foot throttles like in a Tesala, because they measure accelerator pedal pressure and amplify that signal instead of thumb pressure, which is boring. Push Foot, Go. The term is torque sensor. Sometimes I make bikes with both a thumb throttle and a torque sensor. Here is one with an IGH, torque sensor, thumb throttle and Dutch riding position, it has 85 Nm of torque output. About 100 Nm is the far limit before major drivetrain problems. The best bikes do not look clunky and are silky smooth, intuitive to ride.
rizebikes.com
flx.bike
Both of my Bafang throttles plugged in to the main 4:1 harness up near the rest of the connections (brakes & display). One harness did have the throttle lead doubled back and plugged into the hole it came from to conceal it. I don't know as there's another place to plug a throttle in on the ones I have.
A huge challenge on these is to replace a shift cable. It is because the gear sensor is buried down in a pit under the battery. The answer is to grab it with needle nose vice grips and to use a big loop of tandem cable. I know what it is like working in that pit of despair. Well done @ruffruff! Sometimes when replacing thru-frame, I will cut the old wire or housing and heat shrink some brake cable to it. Then I have a fish wire to pull the replacement.
I was thinking about that, but I want to keep the old wire/connector intact in case I'd every want to go back to stock for some reason??
Swearing is highly helpful. I have a pile of powerful wheel magnets for speed sensors. I will often make a slight hook on one end of spare brake cable and make a woven loop at the other end and I will feed it thru-frame, while guiding it with magnets. When I twist the loop, it twists the slight hook the same degree. Once feed, I will build up the cable with fine gauges of heat shrink tube to make it almost at thick as the wire I am pulling. Then I use a larger diameter of heat shrink tube over both the stainless cable and the wire that I am pulling. I will just pull the loop end and I am done. I drilled this bike and went thru-frame when I did the build. If you zoom you can see the battery wire emerging from the back side of the top tube. The display wire emerges from the down tube about 90mm from the right head tube. Don't worry about going back to stock. You will need to do some of this when you upgrade the shifter and derailleur. I am digging the 11-50, Box Three Prime Nine group sets on M600's
My experience has been that bulkhead below the battery is only held in place by 3-4 screws. Inconvenient for sure, but geez, not a show stopper?
I once pinched a display wire between the motor and a frame. At start up it fried the internal controller. My advice is to work with chop sticks and needle nose vice grips, if you have to, while dwelling for eternity in the Pit of Despair, before dropping the motor in exasperation. I f-up more than most.
Not a bad price for those components and at 61 lbs its not a huge paperweight...Not too hard..... here's 2 that come to mind. Mid drive throttles can be hard to come by. You'll find they're standard, or at least optional on most by Bafang powered bikes
Mid-Drive E-Bikes: Superior Torque for Hills & Rugged Trails
Discover the ultimate mid-drive electric bikes for tackling steep inclines. Offering over 2x torque than hub motors, perfect for hilly terrains. Choose from sleek commuter frames or robust off-road designs with fat tires. Ideal for any terrain, ensuring a smooth, powerful ride.
F5 Trail
Our Trail 27.5" hardtail eMtb rocks a 500W Bafang mid-drive motor and handles any terrain with Maxxis off road tires and Suntour front suspension. Explore your world with 4 piston Magura brakes, integrated 840WH lithium ion battery and more.
Try Ravi at Zen bikes
Thank-you everyone! Deacon, your post is especially helpful, that belt drive is a nice touch, but idk what "MP" is, sorry my newbie is showing
Not too hard..... here's 2 that come to mind. Mid drive throttles can be hard to come by. You'll find they're standard, or at least optional on most by Bafang powered bikes
Mid-Drive E-Bikes: Superior Torque for Hills & Rugged Trails
Discover the ultimate mid-drive electric bikes for tackling steep inclines. Offering over 2x torque than hub motors, perfect for hilly terrains. Choose from sleek commuter frames or robust off-road designs with fat tires. Ideal for any terrain, ensuring a smooth, powerful ride.
F5 Trail
Our Trail 27.5" hardtail eMtb rocks a 500W Bafang mid-drive motor and handles any terrain with Maxxis off road tires and Suntour front suspension. Explore your world with 4 piston Magura brakes, integrated 840WH lithium ion battery and more.Thank-you for the suggestions, I'm now wondering if Mid-drive, throttle, IGH, and now I'm adding Belt-drive, are exclusively high end solutions?Not too hard..... here's 2 that come to mind. Mid drive throttles can be hard to come by. You'll find they're standard, or at least optional on most by Bafang powered bikes
Mid-Drive E-Bikes: Superior Torque for Hills & Rugged Trails
Discover the ultimate mid-drive electric bikes for tackling steep inclines. Offering over 2x torque than hub motors, perfect for hilly terrains. Choose from sleek commuter frames or robust off-road designs with fat tires. Ideal for any terrain, ensuring a smooth, powerful ride.
F5 Trail
Our Trail 27.5" hardtail eMtb rocks a 500W Bafang mid-drive motor and handles any terrain with Maxxis off road tires and Suntour front suspension. Explore your world with 4 piston Magura brakes, integrated 840WH lithium ion battery and more.
Not sure of your question - regarding diamond vs. step through? I thought you might be interested in their entire line so you could see what they (the manf) have to offer?
Something like this?
flx.bike
