Boeshield most underused eBike product and warning

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Minnesnowta
Yikes! Went to reorder a 4oz bottle to treat connectors on upcoming build.
Two prices on Amazon buyer beware!

$2.75 per ounce or $4.11 an ounce!!??

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The "Lowest price in 30-days, Save 6%!" I will bet that it is targeted for non-Prime members to push them to join, by saving $6. Once they join, they are hooked.
 
I always check eBay for such and often find the best price there.

T9

... and I know we've discussed and disagree.... but I've written and spoken with the manufacturer, and this product is not recommended for application directly on electrical contacts. Though application on the plastic surrounding the copper contacts as a pseudo dielectric grease is acceptable.
 
I guess you talked to the wrong guy.😲 I fueled aircraft for an FBO in my miss spent “Yoot”. I figured if Boeshield was safe for Jet Ranger electronics and the AP’s it’d be fine on eBike. Boeshield wrote, “T-9 is nonconductive and will not cause short circuits, so it’s also safe to use on electronics.”

Aircraft Spruce, “Boeing recommends it for fuselage, wing, and tail structures, engines and cowlings, landing gear and gear wells, control linkages, and avionics. Dries to a clean waxy film. Lubricates and protects all metals for months. Safe on most paints, plastics & vinyls.

I actually have always used ACF50 labeled for electronics and avionics. But milspec docs also refer to Boeshield as appropriate.

Respectfully don’t und we stand why someone would counter their own recommendations. Go figure…
 
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It's recommended for electronics but not electrical connectors, switches or where there is a potential for movement and/or arcing.
If there is any arcing it will foul the connection quicker and be harder to clean when caught in early stages.
As you started, it is non conductive and hence should not be placed between two mating conductors. 😉
 
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Which is what I did and it was explained to me that it is best applied to the outer shell of the connector and the plastic/rubber mating points of the shell to keep moisture out and not to apply directly on the electrical contact points. If some does get on the electrical contact points, the connector should be mated/unmated a few times which should scrape off any T9 from the electrical contact points. These are their words not mine... But it is in line with everything I've ever read from the manufacturers of the hardware I'm trying to protect. Rule 101 is to keep contact points clean, dry and free of contaminates.
Keep in mind that vibration is an equal foe here and when contaminates are most destructive.
 
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